We began the day with another gut busting visit to the buffet in our hotel, and then biked over for a drive-by look at the Dalí museum (to be posted separately). After that we started off for a 45 mile loop to the southwest, planning to bike to Banyoles and back.
We could eat in the room or go wandering the neighborhood for an early opening bar, but the draw of this smorgasbord downstairs keeps luring us in.
Doesn’t this look like an appealing route though? A perfect loop for the season - not too tough, not too long, with an attractive lake at the epogee. We should give it a try some year.
On second thought though, since we’re a mile out of town and finally realize we aren’t on our way to Banyoles after all but are heading northeast because of some sort of wierd GPS loading error, we throw out the playbook and decide to improvise. Everywhere else around here has been great cycling, so we’ll just follow our noses for the day.
I’ve called this a loop through the northeast, but if you look at the map below it really is more suggestive of a string of sausages. It’s a brilliant loop though, across the plain of Alt Empordà and into the foothills beyond. Fantastic cycling, and once again one of the best days of the tour. This country! It feels like we could really have stayed here a full week and not run out of fascinating routes to explore.
For some weird reason (unrelated to the wine at dinner last night, I’m sure), I didn’t work on the post at all last night. So here we are this morning and it’s time to ride, so I’ll stop here. If you’re in a hurry yourself today, you could do worse than just by viewing the video for an overview of the day - I’ve conveniently placed it here at the top so you don’t have to hunt for it. If you have just a bit more time, go next to the other video, of the olive harvester - you really shouldn’t miss it if, like us, you didn’t know how they’re gathered in the modern age. Or, of course, feel free to have another shot of the beverage of your choice, lean back and relax, look at the photos, and dream your way into Empordà for just a bit. This could be you.
Mañana.
I’m surprised that there’s this much snow on the southern face of Canigou. It looks nearly as white as the northern face did a few days back. I wonder if there’s been a dusting of snow up there since then?
Yes, I know it’s the same mountain we keep showing you, but the point of the photo is really the variegated vegetation in the foreground. We’re biking here along the Muga River, which makes a colorful ribbon as it snakes across the Empordà plain.
Peralada, one of the larger of Figueres’ near neighbors. We biked past here on our ride in, but it was too late in the day for us to look around then and we just rolled on by.
The clock tower of Sant Martí Church. Built in the late 1800’s on a foundation that goes back over a thousand years. The clock seems a bit later than that though.
We didn’t spend long in Peralada, partly because we had our bikes with us and its core isn’t quite conducive to bicycling. It would be a better plan to take a lock with you and stroll around.
Scott AndersonTo Bruce LellmanYup. This scene reminds me of when we got our first shearing when I was drafted into the army. Reply to this comment 5 years ago
We often see these reeds along Mediterranean streams, but I’ve never known what they are exactly. Do they have a better name than just reeds or tall grasses?
One of the nice things about biking in Catholic Spain is that you can often spot the towns from far off by the bell towers. The nearest one is Mollet, and beyond is I think Sant Clement.
Our route for the next fifteen miles looks like this - unstriped, unfenced, barely a lane wide, devoid of cars. We’re biking through a natural park here, on our way up to Sant Quirze de Colera monastery.
The ruins of the 9th century Sant Quirze de Colera church and monastery. It looks so remote and isolated here, but in fact there’s a restaurant just to its left and a few cars drive up for the lunchtime meal. We ate here too, sitting on the grass and watching the shadows gradually recede across the near wall.
I’ve really been surprised by the flowers here, in early December. We passed a field blanketed with this mystery plant in the natural park on our way to the ruined monastery. Empordà must be astonishing in the spring.
This side street in tiny Vilamaniscle looks like it must be about 30%. It’s been a pretty easy day so far, and I suggested that we do a few reps to the top for some interval training, but she wasn’t interested.
Scott AndersonTo Bruce LellmanCould have, of course. It didn’t seem reasonable to make Rachael stand around and wait though. I have the partnership to think about. Reply to this comment 5 years ago
The stone and tile of the farm buildings are so colorful here. And isn’t that a 🎵cool desert plant 🎵on the left? It almost looks like it’s being grown as a crop.
Again? At first I was afraid we had stumbled onto the same river we waded through two days back. This one was shallower though and an easy passage. No big deal.
This flock was moving quickly enough that it would have made a good video. They’re almost running, but not so fast that they can’t make time to stop and root through the stubble as they go.
Jen RahnYes! Love the olive harvest video. I finally understand why olive trees never need chiropractic treatments. Reply to this comment 5 years ago
Bruce LellmanThank you for the olive harvest video. I had no idea it was so violent. I wonder why they don't up and die after treatment like that! Reply to this comment 5 years ago
Scott AndersonTo Bruce LellmanWe saw a beta version of this in a small field a few days earlier. It’s a hand held power shaker that caresses one branch at a time. It’s so strange - the tree looks like it’s having a nervous breakdown. I’m starting to feel guilty about eating olives. Reply to this comment 5 years ago
