February 1, 2024
Day 5 Bike: Early Retirement
Khlong Hat to Resort in middle of nowhere
Sleep was bliss in that resort room last night. As a point of fact, anyone who knows Thailand knows that a 'resort' is not what you think it is. It's a ramshackle collection of bungalow style rooms, usually by a manmade lake or something in the middle of nowhere.
I could easily have gone to the 7/11 to eat food but the dinner with friends and family was greatly appreciated. The 73 year old mother had essentially said the reason I came here was destiny. Reading up more on this topic, her choice of words was on point. All parties involved had made a complex series of free choices to end up where we were at the dinner, yet the probability of this being a purely random encounter was less than winning the lottery.
I set off and returned the key to one of the cleaning staff. Everyone else had long since disappeared including the owner. Looking back to that table where the conversation took place, it was somewhat surreal. Now in the mid-morning hot sun, it was empty and as if nothing had happened at all. But I have all the evidence, including remembering what everyone said. Would we meet again? I believe so.
I recalled a conversation with the Australian couple from the Beer Bus in Phnom Penh. He said that one of the hallmarks of travel in Cambodia is personal responsibility. You can have all the freedom you want, but it comes with taking responsibility. That makes all the sense in the world actually. When developed, this moves your travel towards destiny and away from fate. Fate is like walking into a casino and playing slots. In the long term you lose.
Take it a step further, we learn to create our own destiny.
The first thing I noticed was that Khlong Hat was a very small town but with a lot of food. In fact, more than the larger towns in Cambodia. I was quite shocked to be honest. Also the people were a lot more laid back and there wasn't much of an edge to this place. Not to get too lax with leaving bags unattended but the locals I met all smiled and greeted me calmly. This was repeated in front of the 7/11 with some folks out and about.
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The riding then went due west on a smaller rural road. Even so it was in quite good condition. Towns would spring up periodically every 10-15km or so. On one stop, I enjoyed a type of noodle dish along with Pepsi. The locals were all smiles and laughs, this was truly a warm welcome to the kingdom of smiles.
The military checkpoints kept on coming and they would likely go for at least 100km deep. Even so, nobody was really manning them, or at least not anyone I could see.
Eventually the road started climbing and entering a beautiful national park area. I kept thinking of the conversation last night and just put myself in the present moment, listening to the sounds of nature, the birds chirping, the monkeys on the side of the road, and the sounds of the wind. Then for a brief moment I could imagine myself like a drone moving away from the bike and seeing myself riding from a distance.
In that moment, I realized the bike was safe. This Montague had been around the world for over 12 years. During covid it made some temporary tours in China, but I nor the bike never felt safe there. Even riding around Shanghai, there were two scary incidents when the cops came super close to chasing me down on this bike, and the bike almost got snagged. There were also two accidents when I fell off and collided with cars with moron drivers who couldn't drive. It was an awful feeling. Yet in all those scary times, the bike and I were still protected.
Now the Montague was coming back to its real home.
Then I recalled what one of the women back at the table had said. She told me, "I can see that there is a giant yet gentle naga snake protecting you wherever you come and go. You can feel free to travel to and fro, as you are protected and watched over." Her reference to the naga snake was puzzling. She noticed my look and showed a picture on her phone. I then immediately recognized that from the many temples I have seen in Thailand, hence making the connection. While I don't exactly believe in this stuff, her point was very valid and I could translate to my own beliefs.
After the road left the national park it started to descend gradually and I was pretty thirsty. A coffee shop appeared at the right time and I rolled in. After ordering a coffee, I then bumped into Lucky who is a Saudi national and basically retired. Yet he is only 37 years old. He lives here with his Thai wife and an adorable one year old infant.
He explained, "I used to work as an engineer at the steel factory, it is very hard work and long hours. I saved and saved and now retired. Saudi is good for only one thing and that is to work and make money. But I got tired of it and decided to come here to relax and actually live."
I was astonished to hear all this. Just replace Saudi with China and we're getting closer to my story.
He went on to say, "Things are getting better in my country. You can't expect change to happen instantly, but it's better. As I'm sure you know, women can drive now. They can also get passports and leave the country, it wasn't so long ago they could not. But still, it is not easy to drink. I like my alcohol you know, you'll find me in Pattaya too. Fuck it man I can't believe you're actually riding a bike there." I had to laugh at that one.
He showed me pictures of his many homes. Clearly this guy had made a killing. There was his mansion back in Saudi with multiple cars, including one he drove two hours back and forth every day to Bahrain to see his wife. He then showed me pictures of his place in Bahrain, and then also some in Phuket where his Thai wife lives. I got confused if maybe there were two wives in the story, and it wouldn't surprise me if there were. This guy was handsome, he had brains, and he had cash. Or maybe the Thai wife was in Bahrain at the time. Who knows.
He also shared that his Dad had passed away, and I told him the same happened to me. We both shrugged it off and said, "Well that's life you know." Apparently the family business had been passed down to him which explains the cash. As for me, well I got fuck all as an inheritance. It doesn't matter though, I learned how to budget and invest wisely with the cash I have.
We talked some more and this went on for several hours. I started sharing all that I was doing with my life coach, and he said, "Steve man, don't stop. What you're doing with those goals is amazing. Stay the course." He would say that several more times in the conversation.
Everything seemed to be lining up. Lucky was now the third Saudi national or person with connections to that region I had met on the trip. The conversations with all of these people had rather signifant overlaps and connections to the narrative of this journey.
Lucky then told me that he wanted to go to Cambodia but the airline staff didn't allow him as apparently it was policy. When I told him I met Saudis in Cambodia he said, "Maybe the airline people were talking out of their ass." I said that was most likely true and suggested he cross via a land border. The issue wasn't the visa, it was the airlines. Fact check: yes they can enter the country no problem
I had a chance to meet his Thai wife also and after some chatting he told her, "You know, Steve said he met Saudis in Cambodia. I have no idea what that business was all about with the airline staff saying I couldn't go." If I was to hazard a guess, they were crossing at major overland point such as Poipet and then traveling by bus.
At any rate, Lucky was enjoying his retired life in Thailand. He just chills out, runs the coffee shop, then relaxes and drinks beer at his place nearby. He also taught his baby from an early age how to drink and smoke shisha. He explained that if you do good to people, God will do good to you. If you do bullshit, well then expect trouble. Maybe airline staff should take note.
With all this chatting, I resigned to the fact I wouldn't get very far. I asked him and his wife if they knew a good resort, and they recommended one at the next town. "Only 10 minutes" they said, well true if you have a car. I knew it would be at least half an hour.
His parting words were "It's a good thing you came here in the afternoon, apparently there are wild animals that come out at night and kill people"
Today's ride: 75 km (47 miles)
Total: 611 km (379 miles)
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