I'm getting a little behind on the journal, so this is a recap from yesterday's ride to Riva del Garda, and our two nights spent in Rovereto.
Let's first start with Rovereto. We must admit that Rovereto was a bit of an anomaly as far as Italian towns go. When we first arrived into town, we cycled down broad and wide cobbled streets hoping to find the major town square which is so common amongst Italian cities of this size. There is usually a church and a piazza where the heart of the town is be to be found in any Italian town, no matter the size; where cafes and restaurants and the heartbeat of the city is located. But, the heart of Rovereto seemed to elude us. The town seem disjointed, for some reason. Some small sections of streets were vibrant with cafes and restaurants full of people, and then you turned a corner and it was the opposite; with high end and polished businesses closed, devoid of any people. The town was charming, but it lacked the vibrant intimacy of a town of this size. It was almost like the old town was too large for the population, and the citizens were scattered about here and there. We're not sure if this is was a natural seasonal thing, or maybe the result of how the city's socio-economic history affected the growth and development of the urban planning of the city. So, we played hide and seek to truly find Rovereto.
Nevertheless, let's get on to our day ride to Riva del Garda.
We cycled south as far as Mori, before we turned west and began to gain elevation over a small pass that separates the Adige valley from Lake Garda. If you look at the elevation profile of today's ride, you will see that Lake Garda is at a lower elevation than the Adige River. Passo San Giovanni, at only about 280m above sea level separates these two bodies of water.
We struck south along the Adige cycle route; which, as you recall, we have been following since Bolzano. The Adige is blessed with fertile soil, and is prime grape and fruit growing territory, and we were astounded by the amount of land dedicated to grape production. For over a hundred kms we have been cycling through an ocean of grape production. Imagine how many people drink wine on the planet? You may be one of billions of them. Sue and I played a game of guess how many metric tonnes of grapes are harvested just from the Adige every year. Maybe, if I have time, I'll do the research. Let's just say, a lot.
Nearing Passo San Giovanni. This is photo is looking east towards the valley that contains the seasonal lake of Lago di Loppio.
Once over Passo San Giovanni, we appeared to enter another biogeoclimatic zone. The land and climate seemed to become more Mediterranean, and reminded us of southern Provence. This shot is looking west towards the valley that Lago Garga resides.
We knew from looking at our GPS units on our bikes that we were getting close to our first visual of Lake Garda, but nothing prepared us for this stunning panorama. What was especially surprising was the noticeable and steep descent into the valley that contains Lake Garda. It was a screaming 12% descent.
Our first visual of Lake Garda. This is not the town of Riva del Garda yet, but the towns of Tarbole and Linfano straddling the Sarca River. Tarbole right of the River. Linfano left.
Keith ClassenA truly spectacular spot! We stayed at the hotel probably just left of where you took this shot. We thought that made sense so we wouldn’t have to make that steep climb fully loaded coming back. Also remember the hotel gave us a bottle of wine when we checked out…classy! Really enjoying following along reliving some our memories of that part of the world. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
Patrick O'HaraTo Keith ClassenHi Keith. We wish we had more time here. I know the hotel you speak of. It's perched right up there. We were unloaded for this climb. It's not long, but it's steep. Thanks for writing. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
When we arrived at Lake Garda, we knew we had also arrived in Vacationland. From our past experience, the citizens of Europe head to three places when the heat arrives: the coast, the lakes or the mountains. This place was hoppin'. After a short break, we walked our bikes the 3 kms through the throngs of beach goers along the waterfront towards the town of Riva del Garda; taking in the incredible scenery, the powerful off shore breeze, and the incredible people watching. The north side of Lake Garda was chalk a block full of people enjoying their vacations.
Lago Garda looking south. Interesting facts: It is the largest lake in Italy. It's over 50kms long from north to south. It's maximum depth is 350m or 1150ft.
After our 25km ride out here, it was time for a swim. It was a bit of a shock to experience how cold the water was. This Canadian can handle cold lakes, and this was a surprisingly cold lake. It was incredibly refreshing.
After some walking and some riding; and trying not to get killed by other cyclists trying to squeeze their way through the throngs of pedestrians in strictly no cycling zones, we made it to the old town of Riva del Garda. I must admit I let my tongue slip a few times at some inconsiderate and reckless cyclists screaming through these pedestrian zones, but for the most part, I tried to behave myself. Sue gave me the 'lip-zip-it' sign a few times.
Riva del Garda waterfront. The tower is called the Torre Apponale The tower was built in the thirteenth century with the function of sighting and defense of the historic center and the port of Riva del Garda.
Naptime in the park. Here I began to get paranoid about the effects of my tick bite. I have been feeling a little fatigued and have a pretty nice little headache. Here I am dreading the climb up the 12% grades to get back to Rovereto. Maybe, it's all in my head?
Patrick O'HaraHi Kathleen. It does look a little tilted, doesn't it. Maybe just my phone camera. I didn't notice it before. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
Patrick O'HaraHa ha. Too bad I'm losing my hair, though. Besides, this dude is way younger than me! And, way cooler. Thanks for writing Hannah. Reply to this comment 2 years ago
The following shots are from our last night's roamings around Roverto.
To add some parting thoughts to our two nights in Rovereto, we have to backpedal a bit and say that Rovereto grew on us, and we slowly came to grasp its charm. We went out last night with the intention of sitting down for a rare restaurant meal, but we were sidetracked by an outdoor music venue which also served food and drinks. It was truly a local fundraising event with families, friends and neighbours out for the evening to support the community. Sue and I always prefer and seem to gravitate to these kinds of things whenever we are travelling. We would much rather experience the local character of a place in a venue like this, than sit in a restaurant. I just wish we had of taken some photos.
So, after sharing a bench with some locals, eating a great steak sandwich with fries, listening to local live music, and enjoying a piccolo gelato, we headed off for bed at our very humble hostel. So, again. Our first impressions are wrong. We came away with fond memories of Rovereto.
Here are some shots from last night.
The Leno River running through the old town of Rovereto.
