Canazei To Bolzano.

July 20, 2022

After one climb over Passo Costalunga, it was pretty much a long descent into the Adige, and the sweltering heat. It was like descending into Hades, itself, it became so hot, so quickly.

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We clearly feel like we are in part two of this trip. After having awoke this morning to the comfortable, cool fresh air at 1600m above sea level, we began our descent from the Dolomites and received a very 'warm welcome' when we arrived in Adige valley. We are now experiencing the stifling temperatures that are gripping most of Europe at this time; way too hot for these two wimpy Vancouverites. When we went out for a walk yesterday to explore Bolzano, one of the thermometers outside of a pharmacy read 42. Although the sign was sitting in full sun, I looked at my phone, and the temperature read 38. So, hot enough. The oppressive heat had its way with us, and it didn't take long for us to make a hasty retreat back to our hotel; which, by the way does not have air conditioning.

After my fourth quick shower of the day to help cool off, we attempted to get some sleep. We slept sheetless and clothesless and had the fan working overtime all night. It was so hot, my pillow lost all usefulness because it just became a heat conductor to the point that it might have well been better used as a heating pad. I threw it across the room in frustration. And, then there were the guests that arrived at 2am, making such a ruckus that we became resigned to the fact that we were not going to get any decent sleep at all.

So. We may have had about three hours sleep. Having said that, there are many vulnerable people out there who have suffered far worse consequences, and this is not lost on us.

But, let's turn to yesterday's story, where we pick up our departure from Canazei on route to Bolzano.

The precise stacking of firewood is a serious art form here in the South Tyrol region.

Geraniums hang from almost every house balcony in this region.

We went into a local cheese shop and asked for something strong and stinky. I wish I could have remembered the name of this cheese, but is was creamy and had a wonderful strong flavor and odour. You can imagine what our panniers must smell like.

Our stay in Canazei was lovely. The guesthouse we stayed at was immaculate, and run by a traditional Ladin women, who clearly ran a tight ship. When we arrived, we were not allowed to walk into the hotel with our outside shoes on, and she immediately offered us some 'splappers'. Sue and I looked at each other puzzled and confused, until the women grabbed a wicker basket full of rubber slippers. Ohhh? Slippers.

She sanitized them with a few generous squirts of sanitizer, and showed us to our room. We must admit it kind of felt like staying at a fastidious aunt's house, where you're really never sure if your doing things correctly or behaving in the correct manner, and you're always second guessing yourself and wondering if you are breaking any social norms. It was kind of comical at times, whereby Sue and I would confer before making any moves, just to make sure we weren't going to get scolded. But, I jest. She was lovely, and it was a great place to stay, but if you're ever going to stay at the Stella Garni Alpina, make sure you bring your own 'splappers.'

The first part of today's ride was along the Val di Fassa cycle route.

The first part of today's ride was effortless riding, and the gentle descending 2% grades allowed us to coast without as much as a pedal stomp. I was thinking to myself as we coasted down the valley that I was thankful for such an easy day after yesterday's ride.

We're on the Val di Fassa cycle route; a dedicated cycle path that runs along the Avisio river and avoids the busy roads leading in and out of Canazei. The Val di Fassa cycle route is a gem of a cycle path and runs about 50kms from Canazei t0 Castello-Molina di Fiemme, but we're only on this route as far as Vigo di Fassa.

Heading west and downhill along the Val di Fassa and the Avisio River.

When describing this route to Susanna last night, I mistakenly told her it was going to be an easy day. All down hill to Bolzano, I confidently beamed. I was partly correct, except for an unexpected solid 500m climb up to Passo Costalunga that I had somehow neglected to notice.

At Vigo di Fassa, our route left the tranquility of the cycle path and we were kicked onto busier roads for an uncomfortable spell, detouring onto SS241, which began the longish climb to Passo Costalunga.

The grades were fine, but the traffic came is spurts; and, with no shoulder to speak of, when traffic approached from both directions at the same time, cars had to slow down behind us and wait their turn for enough room to move around us. It's unsettling when you hear cars approaching from behind and them having to slow down right on your rear wheel before having enough space for the oncoming car to pass, just so they can get around you. But, the drivers were really respectful, I have to say.

For this trip, I gave Sue my Garmin Varia radar, since she generally cycles behind me. If you're not aware of this little device, it is a combined radar and rear light unit that clips to your seatpost. Essentially, it is a radar that detects cars behind you and it alerts you in two ways. One, it makes a beep when traffic is approaching from behind, but it also indicates on your GPS unit on your handlebars how many cars are behind you, and how fast they are going using little white dots that run vertically up the side of your GPS that represent cars approaching. It is a very useful tool, and one that I use all of the time when I am road riding at home.

Looking back at a last look at the Dolomites from near Tires.

Sue climbing at the right. A little rising roller to conquer before the precipitous drop down into Bolzano. Just past Tires, Italy.

Great smooth tarmac and quiet roads. It's getting hot now! We are clearly out of the Dolomites now.

Just past Tires, this little road was originally the old route up this valley. The gradients were extreme coming down, and we both rode our brakes down the 17-20% grades.

Once we the dropped down to the Eisack/Isarco River, we picked one of the many incredible cycle paths that Bolzano is famous for. This is a cyclist's town. Although the route into Bolzano ran along the busy highways and train routes in the valley, our route was on a completely segregated cycle path that whisked us right into the center of the old town.