Day 30: Valladolid to Coba - Grampies Yucatan De Nuevo, Winter 2023 - CycleBlaze

January 11, 2024

Day 30: Valladolid to Coba

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We sadly went for our last breakfast for now, in our favourite hotel in our favourite town of Valladolid. But we are plotting to return, maybe next year for some Spanish classes.  To get warmed up for that, I told our waiter "Te veo el proximo ano" (see you next year) and I was gratified that he understood, replying "muy bien".  I was happy about that, and tried it out successfully on the reception desk guy as well.

You just know our breakfast choice will be eggs and the included toast and coffee! Dodie is bent out of shape because hot chocolate is not included, and is offered at a budget busting 60 pesos. This is the same price as for luxury hot chocolate in Paris. Dodie thinks she should get a 40 peso credit for the included coffee she is not taking. But you can't argue such fine points in Mexico (or maybe anywhere).
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The cats always like our choice.
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and share nicely.
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We set off toward the South, out of town, and ran into two neat things along the way.  The first was a uniquely Mexican solution for a downed phone line.

Well chosen branch.
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And the second was a short but sweet bike way. It runs to the southern limit of town.

Only bikes!
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We love Motmots. They are so unique and interesting, and colourful - if you can get the right shot. But the tail is what makes it, especially onto a lot of iconic posters and graphics.

Turquoise Browed Motmot - lives up to its name.
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The iconic tail.
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And here is another of those so typical sights, with Abuela being chauffered around on a cargo bike.  This is actually a way more effective method than trying to bend and get into a car.

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We adjusted  our course just a little to go through the little town of Chichimila. This had at least one big thing - which was a really broad, if short, tree downtown near the traditional coloured town name letters. The tree, whatever it is, is in bloom - or maybe that is the epiphytes that are growing in large numbers on the tree.

A really broad tree
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Something here is in bloom.
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Bill ShaneyfeltMaybe cannonball tree?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Couroupita_guianensis
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10 months ago
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The church in this little town is not grand.
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They do have those hyper annoying (and dangerous to us) "topes".
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Karen PoretAha..the infamous “Botts dots”
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10 months ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Karen PoretNever knew what they were called before. They do not seem to deter the cars too much but terrify us, since our small wheels tend to try to topple sideways going over them. We mostly dismount and walk the bikes across.
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10 months ago
Karen PoretTo Karen PoretThey were created by an engineer who couldn’t see the lines in inclement weather. Like this “ safety feature”, they are a bane, alike the corners of streets “ improved” for safer crossing for disabled people.
At least it’s not a post as in the dead center of a bike trail🫣
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10 months ago
We passed by a school, where the little kids were singing an opening exercise while waving coloured towels in time. They were so super cute!
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Indigenous pre-school. "Together we'll transform Yucatan"
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After their opening thing, the kids trooped into the classroom, and those parents that had been with them filed away. One father spoke English quite well, and stopped to chat with us, starting with the UQs. He had come by cargo bike, so I had some questions of my own for him.

One thing, he asked if we knew where we were, and Dodie came back quickly with Chichimila, of course. This answer pleased the man, because to him this is not Valladolid. To him, Valladolid is a Spanish/Mestizo town, while this is a Mayan village. In Yucatan, 50% of people speak Mayan and 10% speak only Mayan.

Our road in Chichimila
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A miniature small farm yard.
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We returned to the main road,  closely observed I would say by gruesome looking vultures.

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Travelling peddlers have a long tradition in Europe, in fact Dodie's grandfather was one.  Here we have a modern equivalent using a truck and a recording over a loudspeaker announcing what he has available. Those chairs look good!

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Laurie MarczakI don’t think I know this story/history - we’re talking about Hilda’s father yes?
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10 months ago
A Ruddy Ground Dove, on a wire!
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A variant on the loaded peddler truck is the loaded moto, in this case with furniture. Wherever they are going, it's a rougher trip because for about 5 km right here the road falls to pieces.

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The potholes can be dodged at first.
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But what about now?
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Once the road (mostly) cleaned up its act, it became a long, hot, and boring mostly straight run toward Coba. We were taunted during this by a Blue Crowned Motmot. This is the Motmot we rarely see.  It sat out on a bare branch not far away, until the shutter button was 1/10 second from being pushed, at which time it flew away!

Next up, parakeets kept flying across the road, chattering, but never perching.  Until, that is, they did!

Perching parakeets.
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82/24052 (That is, 82nd bird for this trip and 52nd bird of 2024) Olive Throated Parakeet
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With temperatures in the low 30's, we drank almost all our water, pouring a bit over our heads as well. This is where an airy and preferably air conditioned room to arrive to is so much appreciated. We were way too hot and tired to even go to the restaurant that we know to be good, near the ruins. Instead we heated water and made instant noodles that come in a foam cup. They are surprisingly satisfying in the right conditions. And for dessert - Bimbo cinnamon rolls! Don't laugh, it was  a supper that worked for us this time!

Today's ride: 80 km (50 miles)
Total: 1,315 km (817 miles)

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