Tom drives me back to Williamsport and we start out around 8:30. It is still cool. We are in Tom's neighborhood. He shows me Fort Frederick and he takes me on the paved Western Maryland Trail. It parallels the C&O. We have lunch in Hancock at Buddy Lou's, a restaurant junktique store. Not only is the food good but it is right on the trail. Hancock also has a bike shop where I break down and buy myself a long-sleeved jersey. It comes in handy as the days progress.

     The Maryland Trail drops down to the C&O at one point to work around a defunct tunnel. When it rejoins the Maryland, Tom points out a short walk to the mouth of the tunnel where you can see the timber framing.

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After 27 miles on the Western Maryland, we arrive at Little Orleans.

     Little Orleans has a campground on the river and Bill’s. Bill’s is a bar, restaurant and camp store. Tom tells me to go check it out. Bill’s is a rustic place that a patron mentioned has good food if you like it fried. Inside, the ceiling is covered with dollar bills. I mention to the heavy-set man behind the counter that there are a couple of thousand dollars worth of bills on the ceiling. He says the figure is more like 10,000. I ask about dinner, he says food is served till 8 and drinks till the last person leaves. No breakfast, but sometimes he makes coffee, if he feels like it.

   Tom says this is the place to jump off the Western Maryland because it dead ends going north. Although they couldn’t spring for a sign. I mention spending the night at Little Orleans camp, Tom points out that it’s Friday night and car accessible so it may get a little loud with drinking and fishing. I heed his advice and decide to roll on to a more remote campsite. Tom has Paula picking him up but we ride about 45 miles together. It goes fast when you have company. I ride another 3 miles to the Devil’s Alley Campsite.

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  The campsite is a beauty, right on the Potomac. The water pump spews slightly rust-colored water. My filter cleans it up fine. The Portosan had recently been serviced. Two women ride up coming south as I am trying to decide whether to stay. They say the next site has no water. Camp Sweet Camp.

  I pitch my bivy, inflate my pad, pillow and go about preparing dinner. Jon and Lisa ride up while I am pumping water. We had been leapfrogging each other the last few days. They are heading to a B&B in Paw Paw. I gather wood and start a crackling fire. Between the fire, the gurgling river, the geese honking, the crickets chirping, the distant train horn, what a wonderful night.