06/18/23 Durango to Chimney Rock

June 18, 2023

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I was in a mild funk all day, yesterday as well. I’m pretty sure it’s the isolation, I haven’t had any conversation except with cashiers since Gila Springs, and no doubt anxiety about Wolf Creek Pass and the 10 mile grind that will entail is eating away in there as well. It will pass.

It’s very pretty here, and looks completely different from northern New Mexico. Lush. Green. Rivers and streams everywhere it seems. Breakfast was in the well kept village of Bayfield. So storybook pretty that I wonder what the dark side is. I lost my wide brim hat today. I had it in the morning and I didn’t when I stopped to put it on when the sun got strong. That will need to get replaced soon, a wide brim makes such a difference when it’s blazing or when it’s raining that I deeply feel it’s loss. So far Colorado has impressed me with its beauty and its prices. Forest Service campgrounds are over twice what I’ve been paying, $22 here at the Ute campground (though it’s $11 for me ‘cause I’m a boomer). I stopped at the closest campground to Pagosa Springs, which is 15 miles and a climb away for breakfast tomorrow. Pagosa Springs was in reach, but zero reasonable lodging or camping available made stopping early a better choice. It’s nice here in the forest. Chimney Rock National Monument is 8 miles away, an out and back detour about which I’m conflicted. I feel I should, it’s a good opportunity, but I’m also tense about the upcoming climb, and want to be past that. So I’ll probably skip it tomorrow.

Met a couple from Nebraska, towing a BMW motorcycle in a trailer which they use as a camper when parked. Based out of the campsite they are exploring a wide area. The main goal is to ride the Durango to Silverado highway, something which I considered as well but was put off by the grades. They said when they went over Wolf Creek pass yesterday they had rain and snow and slush but that today it was nice. The forecast is for nice for the next few days, so I’m happy about that, I’m not equipped for snow and slush. Nor rain, now that I’ve lost my hat.

Camp neighbors are an elderly Danish couple doing a US road trip, starting and finishing in Pennsylvania. I was secretly hoping for a dinner invite, but no. Instant mashed potatoes tonight

In yesterday’s update I forgot to mention the river surfers in Durango, craziest sport I’ve witnessed! I’ll post some videos on Instagram

Glenn care-takes from the trailer over his right shoulder which he informs me is in the same spot Blue Oyster Cult once stayed. I was using a picnic table for lunch when he came by to tell me his story. Brought his fresh made guacamole and chips to share!

Chimney Rock National Monument is on the other side

Where I am on my planned route from Durango to Salida. That sharp bit in the middle of the elevation profile gives me anxiety.

Today's ride: 38 miles (61 km)
Total: 1,042 miles (1,677 km)

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