The Avenue Verte

September 23, 2018 to September 28, 2018

We left Newhaven in a gathering storm - and given how hard it rained that day, we were happy to be aboard a comfortable ferry. The cycle to our hotel in Dieppe was quick but wet. From there we found a delicious lunch before exploring the town in rain that was so hard and cold that we didn't take pictures.

While we had put considerable energy into planning the first three weeks of our trip, we hadn't given much thought to making our way from Dieppe to CDG Airport in the final week. It was, therefore, a lovely surprise to cycle through gorgeous Normandy countryside in (mostly) beautiful weather along the Avenue Verte. This cycle route was developed to run from Paris to London and offers a couple of alternate sections. We followed the section to the west as it allowed us to take the slight detour to Giverny, near Vernon. In the future, it would be fun to follow the Avenue Verte in one direction and the Seine River cycle path in the other.

The storm was still upon us on the first day, so we only cycled 14 km to reach a wonderful 17th C manor. The weather forecast had accurately predicted that the true deluge would start at noon, along with gale force winds, so we were happy to reach our destination and settle in ... though we had a bit of a delay dealing with a puncture.

If you're going to get a puncture on a rainy ride, be sure to do so beside a bus shelter!

Lovely place to spend a quiet afternoon and evening.

Again the forecasters were right - the next day dawned clear and calm and we set off on the Avenue Verte. So many beautiful landscapes, photogenic cows, lovely waterways, beautiful farms. The first long section is on paved rail grades. Easy!

The second part of the day was on hilly D roads - no traffic to speak of and some fun downhills.

Sandwiches from les boulangeries, treats from delis and beer make great roadside lunches

We spent the night in a wonderful B&B at Lalondelle where we enjoyed dinner and a great conversation with our hosts, en francais. And then the next morning headed a bit off the Avenue Verte to visit Giverny, near Vernon.

A fortress rumoured to have housed the Holy Grail

While it's a beautiful ride to Giverny and a lovely spot to spend a night, it was a bit of a shock to find so many people crowding the gardens, streets and restaurants. Glad we went, but probably wouldn't rush back!

A nice start to a nice dinner in Giverny

The following day we made our way back to the Avenue Verte - lots of climbs along back-country roads, and rides through forests and fields on rough tracks. The variety on this part of the Avenue Verte was quite fun, although Rod had to pay close attention to Galileo to ensure we were heading in the right direction. We arrived in Pointoisse, on the River Oise, at the end of the day.

Kathleen, I was thinking of you as I negotiated several km of gravel along this path!

Our final full day of riding in Normandy was, once again, sunny and beautiful. We followed the River Oise for a bit, then made our way, via Chantilly, to Senlis.

Chantilly is picture perfect - beautifully preserved

A final drink in a busy cafe before heading off to dinner.

Our final day of riding involved cycling from Senlis to Charles DeGaulle Airport. While the Avenue Verte will take you right to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, it doesn't map out a way to the airport, so Rod spent a lot of time studying alternatives on backroads and along a part of Eurovelo 4. Skies were cloudy and from time to time we were a bit lost, or found ourselves alongside very busy truck routes. In one case we walked the litter-strewn grassy margin of a highway for a kilometre, rather than trying to ride a road with no shoulders and freight trucks rushing by. But we eventually made it, negotiated the alarming freeway into the airport, and celebrated a great trip.

Today's ride: 270 km (168 miles)
Total: 970 km (602 miles)

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