Dec. 8th - Chiang Dao to Tha Ton (with a little songthaew help) - Kim and Glory - Cycling beyond

December 8, 2023

Dec. 8th - Chiang Dao to Tha Ton (with a little songthaew help)

did "cheating" bring me bad karma this afternoon? 😂

Cycling beyond? What does that mean besides using it for this blog title? I started and ended a blog at one point and had this as the name so it's held meaning for me for a while. Cycling beyond what I think I am capable of. Cycling beyond my comfort zone. Cycling beyond the severe depression that at one point seemed to define me. Cycling beyond by giving up the everyday comforts and security of a "normal life" to experience what the world has to offer.

All that being said, I have my limits. I knew there was a huge climb to get out of Chiang Dao. I also knew I definitely wasn't ready for it yet physically. And then there's that little bit about me hating hills anyways. 😂 I had read another blog where a couple took a songthaew. Sounds like a plan for me. For those who don't know a songthaew is a form of public transportation in Thailand. It's basically a small pickup truck with a top and a bench seat on either side over the wheel wells. Hop and and hop off and it's affordable. I'd seen yellow and orange ones here and was advised I needed the orange one.

Eventually one came along that was pretty loaded down already. Lucky for me the driver spoke a little English, but I also had pictures of the temple at the very top, a screenshot of the map with the location, as well as the elevation chart indicating I wanted to be dropped off at the top. Once he understood, no problem. 100 baht for the bike, 40 for me. Just about what the guesthouse told me it should cost. But first, he had to unload some boxed roosters from the back. Ummmm, okay. I learned this trip he accepted and delivered cargo as well.

Exhibit A: Songthaew. Yes, that's my bike he's tying down.

I lifted my bike up to him on the roof and he tied it down. He then insisted both sets of panniers and rack pack go up there as well, but he didn't tie those down. I was really hoping I didn't see one go flying off as we made our way up the mountain. 😯Then again, I figured he does this all the time, so I tried to tell myself it was fine.

We made our way up the hill, but not before loading a motorcycle in the passenger area. I helped pull it on which was no small feat.

I started to get a little car sick near the end, but I also looked out enough to know the climb would have done me in. The last part was especially steep and narrow on a windy road with lots of blind curves.

The buddha welcomes me to the top of the mountain

After my drop off at the top, I quickly zoomed down to a coffee shop at milepost 115 on the left. Had a coke zero and some rice with an omelet. It was pretty relaxing and the guy spoke fluent English. He said he was going to give me two thumbs up, but only would give me one since I had "cheated." I told him it was me playing it "smart." There's a difference. For the record, I'm out here to have fun and explore. My days of feeling I have to pedal every inch. I have nothing to prove to anyone.

Nice coffee shop on the left going down at milepost 115

I really wanted to laze out on that platform, but I saw no graceful way to hop on it and certainly didn't want to end up in the pond!

Break's over, but what a nice place to relax

A lot of views were obscured by clouds. Looking back at the road I just came down. Do you see why I'm hoping I don't get rained on?!

In honor of Rachel and Patrick's cats I cat sat. Cheers Miles, Ocho and Tashi. This was for you!

*I continued down with some easy cycling and the original plan was I would stay in the town of Fang. But hey, it's early afternoon, I'm feeling great, it's not as hot out as usual. I should go ahead and keep going to Tha Ton as I need the "practice" getting some miles in to build up my strength. Seemed like a good idea. Then it all went to hell. ☹️

I turned off the highway thinking I'll just take it easy, get to the homestay I booked late afternoon and just relax. So far, me following RideWithGPS in the small backroads actually slow me down because I'm constantly double checking turns or making the wrong ones. 😂 I haven't had a flat tire in over 1500 miles. And then, I feel my wheel start to bounce funny and sure enough, my tire is going flat.

And yes, even a house painted the color of my favorite NFL team. Go Seahawks!

*I pull off to fix it and there were two guys there that wanted to help. It was great for the most part, but I watched the guy check the inside of my tire for whatever caused it and felt he did a thorough job. Now, it it was just me, I would have found the hole in the tube, matched it up to about where it would be on the tire, and triple check that area. The other thing that happened, is since of course it was the rear wheel, I had trouble getting it off. Surly's design makes it harder. I ended up pulling out the quick release completely and two metal pieces fell and I don't know what they are or from where. (Mechanics are not my strong suit.) I tried googling it and it seemed they go on the skewer, but which way? At any rate, I got it right.

The kindness of strangers. His wife even came out and made them move everything to the shade. And yes, that's a barrel of water to find the hole in the tube. Convenient.

*Hit the road again. Not a mile later, my tire is going flat again. In denial, I try to pump it up, but only make it another 1/2 mile down the road. Find a nice shady spot with a bench to replace the tube completely. I am going to be racing againgst the dark and this is stressing me out. Go to leave again and shortly after, my pedals lock up. Beyond frustrated at this point. I almost want to cry, but focus on accepting and solving the problem. But I can't see that the chain is jammed and can't figure out what's causing the problem. I flag down a local cyclist who seems reluctant to stop, but he does. Together we try and figure it out. I end up taking the wheel off again and reinstalling it. Somehow, this solves everything. I test ride, thank him profusely (although really, he was more moral support) and reload and off I go again.

*Now I still have 15 miles to cover before dark. It ain't looking good so I put my head down and just focus on my cadence. I'm nearing the end and my directions take me to a quiet road through many rice fields...and then it turns to dirt. With two miles to go, I give myself permission to stop for a couple of photos and focus on enjoying the beauty around me. Well, except for the bug I know is in each eye, but don't have time to get out. 😂

Great views like this as I put the pedal to the metal

I knew there were dirt roads coming so did not panic. I was using RideWithGPS which I assumed was more reliable than Google maps sometimes is

But now my road is looking more like a tunnel through the brush

*I can see the lights of the town in the distance and then wouldn't you know, I'm met with a short steep hill I had to walk, it starts to rain, and it's getting dangerously dark as I rejoin the main road. Thankfully, it didn't dump on me, but I'm noticeably wet on arrival at my home stay. I'm also exhausted, but can breathe a sigh of relief and work on de-stressing. Two of the kindest hosts ever game me a warm welcome, an ice cold water, and the man even drove to 7-11 for me to get me Coke Zero as they figured I needed the rest!

The lady gave me some medicines to help with my muscles. Needless to say, I am dehydrated. Oh ya, and a 47 mile day!! (Okay, there was a lot of downhill, but still).

What happened here? I had to think hard, but I remember something felt like it stabbed me in the leg near the cave. I looked down, but saw nothing. My leg was really dirty and I'm pretty sure a bee stung me. Bastard. What was weird though that other than the initial "ouch" it didn't really keep hurting.

After I rested up, walked down to town to see about a boat. More on that tomorrow. First night of the small town's walking street. Think food vendors.

Pom and Nong gave me the warmest welcome. I can see why there homestay (Legend's Resort) has a very high review score!

I took this the next morning, but here's my cute little cottage. A little open to the insect life, but there was a mosquito net.

They have 7 cats and 2 dogs. Saw this cutie sleeping by the sliding door. Night

Today's ride: 47 miles (76 km)
Total: 175 miles (282 km)

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Rachael Anderson I’m with you, avoid the steep climbs. What a nightmare about the flats and the bad road conditions. You handled it very well!
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10 months ago

Kim JohnsonTo Rachael AndersonThank you. A day in the life…let’s hope there are no more days like this!
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10 months ago

Rachael AndersonTo Kim JohnsonI’ve got my fingers crossed for you!
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10 months ago