Dec. 17th - Huay Xai to Pak Beng - Kim and Glory - Cycling beyond - CycleBlaze

December 17, 2023

Dec. 17th - Huay Xai to Pak Beng

Via the slow boat

Copied from my fb page today:

There's no easy way to explain this.  There was a dead body in the river with his hands handcuffed behind his back.  The body was horrifically bloated.  I'll leave the rest of the details out.  It was very disturbing for everyone on the boat.  Whispers, then silence fell over the boat.  We were at a stop to let a couple people on/off the boat, so we stayed there awhile.  The body floated from the back of the boat, alongside it, to the front.  A picture I can never unsee.  You don't want to look, but you can't help but look.

My chest was heavy, my heart rate sped up, and I was on the verge of tears.  I was not the only one feeling this way.  It took awhile to return to baseline.  Needless to say, a bit of a shock to my whole system.  This is one time when traveling solo is difficult.  Just me and my thoughts of what I witnessed.  Very upsetting.

No one knows the circumstances of how this happened.  Was he from Laos?  Myanmar?  China?  Involved with crime or an innocent person?  Questions that will never be answered.  It does make me second guess my travels here a bit, but I also have to remind myself that I am not mixed up in things that would put me in that kind of jeopardy.  Onwards.  I hope it doesn't overshadow my travels. ☹️

It also makes me realize once again how much I appreciate I am to be living in America.  Once something like that was discovered, it would have been dealt with and hidden from public view immediately.

If not for that, the boat ride was scenic and mostly fun.  Lots of time to chat with fellow travelers.  My hotel is amazing with an incredible view.  I am glad I treated myself.  Since mosquitos are out, too late to try and go enjoy the pool today.  I just need to relax at this point.

(End of fb post and here's some additional commentary)

I should also mention I messaged my hotel that I was arriving with a bicycle.  Never got a response.  I had a picked the second fanciest of the two as I knew I wanted to spend an extra day here before resuming the boat ride.  Everyone said they regretted having to leave the hotel so soon.  They are also affiliated with an elephant sanctuary.   Thank goodness I did that as I needed a day before getting back on the river. 🥺 

 There was someone who met me at the landing and carried all my bags up to the van.  The boat crew carried my bike.  I would have died as there was no dock or landing.  More like a scramble up a bunch of rocks, then stairs.  The extra money for the hotel was worth it for this factor alone.  However, they told me follow the van and ride my bike.  Initially, I thought it was a 3 mile ride, but they said it was close.  Close.  Yes.  They failed to mention all uphill!  I walked up the one from the boat landing, saw there was more uphill and just pedalled it.  It was steep and a group of tourists shouted praise and encouragement as I got to the top.   Ya, they should be impressed.  I was dying! 😂

I got upgraded to a deluxe room (vs superior) and the view was outstanding.  The downside was, it was all uphill from the road, with more stairs, and way further away from the swimming pool.  I saw the superior rooms and would have been happier with that.  

I walked back into town and met up with some people from the boat for dinner.  Who are we kidding.  Everyone in town is from the boat as this is the overnight stop.  By the way, we spent at least 7 hours on the river.  

I took an anti-anxiety med when I got to the hotel to calm my nerves. I thought I might have a really hard time falling asleep tonight, but I passed right out. 

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Off to a great start
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Local transport
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I saw tons of water buffalo along the river
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This is one of the "fast boats." The driver always had on a helmet but none of the passengers. They are deemed "unsafe" and apparently have frequent accidents with rocks.
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This is where we made a stop at a small village to let people off. It was also the locations of "the incident." We were here awhile.
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Shame. I can't really enjoy this picture anymore and I was so excited to see a local using a pole to get out on the river.
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Thankfully, not completely packed
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Rachel and Patrick HugensThat boat now looks a bit more comfortable since 2006-07
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1 year ago
Kim JohnsonTo Rachel and Patrick HugensThe seats were comfy and it wasn’t completely full so there was a little room to move around. They are mini van seats as chairs. Whatever works! The next segment the boat was a tad nicer!
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1 year ago
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My hotel for the next two nights
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Dock? What dock? But hey, that’s my name on that paper!
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Oops, I’m suppose to have a double bed
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Quickly converted. Much better!
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Night
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Today's ride: 1 mile (2 km)
Total: 317 miles (510 km)

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Andrea BrownKim, there are some huge criminal enterprises in Laos and Myanmar, upstream from you. Scam farms and casinos staffed by trafficked people and of course the drug trade. It’s horrifying what you saw, and I’m so sorry you saw it. Horrible. And it can be baffling to see how the locals handle it too. I’m guessing they saw absolutely no benefit to hauling that person out of the river in a country run by corrupt officials and zero justice system. It can be really hard to hold the beauty and the horror at the same time. I spend a LOT of time here in Laos being furious at the government. They absolutely allow these criminals to set up shop here.
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1 year ago
Kim JohnsonTo Andrea BrownThank you because yes, it was horrible. I have learned a lot the last few days about that little corner the Chinese have taken over in Laos. It's appalling that was allowed to happen. My guess is this was somehow affiliated with that or else the fighting in Myanmar. I hope I never experience anything like that again. It's something I will never forget.
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1 year ago
Andrea BrownTo Kim JohnsonVery, very traumatizing. Again, I am so sorry that happened to you.
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1 year ago