September 29, 2010
Without a map or language.: Things where allot simpler in Uruguay.
Sun 26th Sep. km559 (br471) to camping by farm road. 83km.
It was a bright sunny morning and I's on the road at 7.45 after repairing a puncher on the trailer wheel. The countryside was much more pleasant today and the gravel shoulder had ended to be replaced by good smooth ash felt. There was one disturbing sound though, the Burr of a twin engine light aeroplane circling round before swooping down discharging chemical spray on a crop.
At ten I's passing through a little place of a few houses which had a roadhouse cafe shop in one. It was time for an early elevens. There were a couple on a motorbike just leaving as I arrived. I asked for a coffee that much was understood and pointed to a pastry. The woman behind the counter inquired where I's from. That was easy understood as the Fraze is similar in Spanish and I could understand a few other things she asked but the conversation was limited to, I've cycled from Argentina and I'm cycling North. I've just come from Uruguay. Before leaving I did successfully ask where I could buy a road map, could I find maps in bookshops. She replied probably in Rio Grande the next city.
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At this point there isn't a need for a map as aforesaid I'm cycling along a peninsular with only the one road and the occasional unpaved road off to a dead end many kilometres away at the coast on either side. During the morning I got a glimpse of the inland body of water a great grey horizon but it was only brief.
As ever there were lots of road kill, dogs, a black mole like animal as well as various other mammals and snakes. Nice to see a living one, a snake seemingly froze in it's slidery trail at the white line whether startled by a passing vehicle or me I don't know. It stayed froze long enough for me to get a photo before turning it's head and gliding like a bolt of lightening back into the grass where it no doubt felt safer.
As there still wasn't any scenery to speak of it was a day if I wanted any photos to show to shot other wildlife and whatever wildflower I came upon. Though just before stopping for lunch I past under a sign saying I's entering an ecological reserve so that should be interesting.
I'm now sitting on the grass the bike propped against the fence by the road side. There's wetlands on both sides, open water across the road and long reed beds behind me. The road onwards would be a 20km causeway across a swamp. There are lots of birds and a mammal not sure what it is but it looks a little like a sea lion with a hairy coat. It can be seen crossing the road often though lots have been hit by cars are laid out stiff bloody and smelling . It sits still until I draw level then will dive into a channel and swim under water across to the reeds.
In the evening I's glad to encounter a village wanting a cool coke but it being Sunday the only shop was shut but there was a water tap out side so at lease I could top up on water which was getting low. A little refreshed from fresh water I rode on looking as ever at this time of day for a place to camp. The weather ahead was changing as a cool breeze was blowing in from the East and I'd to stop to put on my Patagonia jacket. Up ahead there was a sheet of dark blue cloud I's hoping not rain on the way. I turned down a farm road in the direction of a plot of woodland but just as I saw the way into the grove I met three guys with fishing rods. They stopped and looked at me before one asked in a Fraze which is similar in Spanish where I's going? I said I's just looking for a place to camp motioning with my head against joined hands to represent my head on a pillow. I didn't quite get his reply but he smiled and more or less said there wasn't any problem with me camping in the woodland before they continued on there way.
Mon 27th Sep. Camping by farm road to Rio Grande. 78km.
The morning was extremely grey. On my way back to the main road I met the same man I spoke to the evening before driving a red pick-up truck. He nodded as we past. As well as being the type of morning that looked as if it would rain shortly the breeze of yesterday evening was now moderately strong wind though not the strong wind that comes in gusts and stops you dead, just strong enough to make riding at 11km per hour hard work. The landscape again today was ugly brown seedbed with the John Deere tractors driving back and forth with their ploughs, empty of hedgerow or tree. Thoughts of how much better Uruguay was with its unspoiled rolling hills entered my head.
I encountered a little place with a shop at 11.30 and bough food for lunch. The shop was small but had all the ingredients I needed. There was a table to sit down at and in another room there was a pool table where two men played pool. I didn't wait and found a wooded roadside grove only a hundred metres on to have a pick-nick sheltered from the wind amongst the trees.
As I sit and write a little dog spotted me and came over. It seened a little shy at first but came on putting it's nose on my lap it's bright eyes stired up at me as I pet it. It's a well looked after dog with a shiny coat. Why cannot all the dogs be like this one I ask instead of always barking at me. Now it has turned over for me to tickle it.
Turns out the distance to Rio Grande was less than I'd estimated as a short way on from where I'd pick-nicked I came to a junction with a sign, Rio Grande 15km and I'd thought in reality I had at lease 25 but I'm lost without a map. At the junction there was a tourist information booth but it was hopeless for me as the girl only spoke Portuguese and when I got across I wanted a map She gave me a simple photocopied plan of the city without much information other than sights of interest.
The road ahead was bleak hell as the wind was blowing drifting sand across the road from roadworks on a new carriage-way. Sand got in my eyes and stung as it hit my face. After 15km from the junction I still was nowhere near the city centre in fact I recorded another 8km so the actual distance was closer to my original estimation.
On my way along the urban thoroughfare a few people smiled and waved from bicycles or scooters making seemingly nice comments to me but all I could do was smile back. I don't even know how to say 'I do not speak Portuguese' which would be a beginning instead of people talking away to me and me not knowing whats been said. And how do I ask directions. Things were allot simpler in Uruguay.
After cycling around the centre a short while I spotted a hotel and after a little bother asking the price, I finally get the lady to write it down. It was 20reals or 11.50dollars which is cheap. Tonight is my first chance to eat out here so I'll see what the food is like. Is it as good as it's rumored to be?
Today's ride: 161 km (100 miles)
Total: 2,872 km (1,784 miles)
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