September 15, 2010
Uruguay day 2.: A dream day on a bike.
Fri 10 Sep. Camping in plantation to camping along farm-track near Sarandi de Navaro. 75km.
The logging trucks drove past my plantation round the clock, well they were rattling or labouring depending on whether loaded or returning empty when I slept at midnight and also when I awoke at six. I had wanted to be on the road at seven thirty but one of the ties holding the spare tires to the front rack had broke last thing last night so it took a little time extra putting that right and eventually I set off at eight.
The countryside was identical to Southern Scotland North East England. Typically there was forestry land on one side of the road and an open moor on the other often with moss covered drystone walls. There were flocks of sheep with new born lambs, cows and there calves often stirred defensively at me as I passed. The only thing which was dissimilar was the unpaved road which was a brown grit and often quite potholed making progress slow but I's stopped much of the time taking photos any way.
Another anxiety I had was I didn't quite know where I was. The road I thought I's on should've according to my map passed through the village of Penaro by now. There was another road on the map running almost parallel and not passing through Penaro so I think I most have been on it. I knew in any case that sooner or later I'd reach some place indicated on the map. That place was Merinos which I reached at eleven which was ideal timing as I could buy food and have a normal elevens break to eat and drink a little.
I entered the village across a railway level crossing and the normal dogs came greeting me but they were quite timid. The first shop I entered was a small place which didn't sell anything I needed. The next was a general store with some food but no bread or other essentials. The last had everything including saddles, riding boots and other gaucho paraphernalia. Outside all of the shops men young and old many of them wearing big black beres sat around chatting while drinking mate. It went silence a moment when I arrived but soon the chat resumed. At the last shop a little boy with blond hair and brown eyes said to his mother 'look a cyclist' and then began giggling. When I asked his name he just kept on giggling. It was the same two days before in Paysandu by a school two little girls thought I's very funny. I don't quite know why. I've not shaved for a while and I wear a funny hat but many people don't shave and wear funny hats. Is, it that I wear tights? That's probably it, with the combination of the others I perhaps look perfectly ridiculous to these kids.
Merinos like the surrounding countryside was an idyllic village. The old railway passed on one side of a wide green the houses and shops lined the other. The green had pick-nick tables and sheep and lambs grazed. I sat at a table to eat my alfarjor and drink coke before continuing out on the moor again for a couple of hours cycling before lunch. Behind fences along the road cattle would stirred at me in curiosity but run back if I stopped. The countryside stretched on ahead the road crossing gentle hills with groves of trees. As it was another warm sunny day I waited till I'd reached a grove for shade before stopping for lunch of a sandwich made of salami and green pepper. I spend an hour there setting off at three after repairing a punchered trailer wheel.
All afternoon there seemed no end to the brown grit road as it continued on. The next place on the map was called Sarandi de Navaro which I'd no idea how far it was as on the map the road was like an S which didn't have a distance marked. I's hoping To reach it before it was time to camp as I's low on water, as silly me didn't fill up in Merinos. I need not have worried though because at five I began to descend down to a long line of willows where the road crossed a stream. The water would be fine for cooking and I'd still enough of the other left for drinking.
I reached Sarandi de Navaro not long after and bought a cold bottle of pepsi. A little girl ran into the shop shouting 'papa papa' as now my face was caked in sweat and grime so I most have looked really funny.
I rode on ahead as the sun became increasingly blocked out by gathering storm clouds and sat down to drink by woodland while I contemplated opening a wire fence gate. 'No the risk of being seen was too great' I thought 'perhaps I'll continue for a few more kilometres'. There was a big forest ahead but all the time a good fence necessitating uncoupling the Bob and the lift over in which time most likely a car would pass it's occupants turning there heads looking at me. 'Too risky'. But finally at the end of this forest a rough farm-track led off along it's edge continuing many many kilometres from the road so after two kilometres I set up camp just as it began to rain.
Today's ride: 76 km (47 miles)
Total: 1,872 km (1,163 miles)
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Well, I'm jealous. It's winter here in Burgundy and the pix of Uruguay look soooo inviting. I really hope I can get back to South America again some day. Looking forward to the rest of the trip.
Cheers,
Keith
7 years ago