December 2, 2010
The road to Fray Bentos
The following morning I awoke with the dawn chorus and shortly after heard a man whistling a tune as he went about his work. This was a different handyman than the one that was here yesterday and as such he thought I had not paid to camp. "Muchacho" he addresses me, "when did you get here". "Yesterday" I say. "Have you paid". "Yes". "Have you A receipt". "No" He didn't seem convinced and went to the office to check the book. I didn't see him more until I was leaving when after the usual exchange of questions and answers about my travels, he says wait, leaving me to pet the camping-site's three friendly dogs, returning a minute later with a 2l coke bottle full of ice for me which would thaw out and become cold drinking water in the coarse of the day.
In September I wrote for the day I left Paysandu, I wanted to take a meandering route either near the river or inland, I chose the later then. Today I would cycle the other, South near the River and through a corner of the country which would prove quite different than the rural hinterland I past in September.
I planned cycling out of the city along the river but as I didn't have a detail map for the city I soon got lost cycling along a unpaved street near the river which eventually ended on wasteland. I return back and turn onto a wide avenue which points inland and would eventually take me to route 3, the mainroad South, but as it's Uruguay that doesn't matter too mush as there's always an amble paved shoulder to cycle on.
This morning the bike feels almost new, what with a new cassette and chain, though, the cable adjuster on the derailleur will need a little tweak as one or two of the gear changes aren't positively smooth, but that is to be expected until the cable beds in. Oh yes, I didn't mention that the bikeshop voluntarily replaced the gear-cable which was well worth it as after many months use the old was stiff. There is also the new barends, that I've fitted which now gives me a choice of grips on the handlebars and ultimately how I will position myself on the bike. The barends being inbound of the grips gives me a narrow profile which is taking a little getting used to, and while I'm at it I notice I'm sitting too low but after putting the seat up I notice the seat-post is slipping. Not to worry as it only slips down so far and that far isn't so far to make it feel as if I'm riding a BMX.
At 8.30 I pull into a service station for a morning break. There I see a car with two racing bikes on a carrier attached to the rear. Ramiro, Tomas and his father had driven 12 hours from Tucuman, on there way to an Iron-man triathlon in Punto del Este. Tomas told me that he saw me on the road in August when I past through Tucuman, he thought then, "que loco".
There was wifi at the service station but disappointingly my Netbook again wouldn't connect. It worked perfectly the morning I left Argentina so hopefully its only a local problem and I'll get somewhere where it will magically connect and work, or else I'll have to show it to someone with more technical knowledge than I.
Shortly after setting off again, I turn South West on a secondary road, route 24. It was a road with few cars but quite a few trucks on the way to container ports on the river it would later transpire. As the day progressed, I past through gently rolling patchwork countryside of many water-pump windmills. The afternoon grew hazy then a dark bank of cloud enveloped the sky. Presently I saw the midnight blue shaft from sky to ground of a downpour off to the right. But it was behind me and so I had the benefit of it being cool while looking at dramatic cloud without the eventuality of getting soaked.
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I arrive in Fray Bentos at 6.15 and cycle around a bit as the road ahead to the city-centre wasn't obvious. I stop at a fruit and veg shop where I buy the requirements for dinner. The woman inside told me there was camping by the riverbank when I asked. Out by the pavement, I put on my cycling-mitts, scarf and helmet quickly before the usual curios people gather around me. But I am too late. A curly haired middle age gentleman with a little mustache approaches and stands in a butch manner in front of the bike blocking me. He asks the usual questions and I answer then make to move the bike round him but he stands on in the way with a twinkle in his eye. His smiling eyes intensified as He asked where I was sleeping, so this time I successfully move the bike out and make a quick get away.
After finding the city-centre and visiting the info centre, I stop by the main plaza which had one of those late Victorian Edwardian era bandstands in the centre and buildings of the same period around. It is a long time since I took a plaza photo. The plaza was nice too because of present day landscaping.
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Later, in the camping-site by the riverbank just along from the city's promenade waterfront, I've set up camp and I sit writing. As yet I have not seen anyone to pay or that looks after the place but there are two fierce looking guard dogs thankfully tied up that barked allot when I entered.
Today's ride: 138 km (86 miles)
Total: 6,845 km (4,251 miles)
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