April 15, 2011
Apr 15 - Four-Wheeled Exploration: Around Vinales on Foot and by Taxi
Villa Pito, Casa Particular, CUC$15
I WAS excited at 6:30 am when the alarm went off since I could get up to read my book some more. You know how it is when you can't put a book down? Well, you just can't put it down! SO I read some more.
While MA got ready a little later I stepped outside to look around a bit before breakfast. Once we had eaten, we chatted with Pito who had called the taxi company for us and he said they had misquoted him because of the bikes, and the price would be CUC$150 instead of CUC$90 both of which were much higher than the bus rate but there would be no fuss and we would be brought from Pito's casa to the door of our choosing be it Breezes Jibacoa, Cameleon Jibacoa or Caletas. We'll see who has room for us when we get there.
Then we were away and out into the town. As we approached the Plaza Mayor, everyone approached us to ask if we wanted a taxi or tour guide. For now, we did not.
At the Plaza we perused the tourist gitch, took photos of the in-renovations church until we noticed Jaime leading in the cycle group and Joel at the rear of the group. We hung around to chat with them then bid them our farewells since we won't likely meet them again. We also bade farewell to the Norwegian couple who we had chatted with in Soroa and again in San Diego. It's funny how re-meeting people during travel can make you friends. All of them were curious about how we found the ride through the Parque. So we told them!
We took a stroll down the main street where we chatted with a couple from France for a few minutes, then went to the edge of town and back.
MA was interested in a tour so when the next guy asked if we needed a taxi we asked about the details - two or three hours for CUC$15 for a tour around the area in his old car. Sold.
The first stop was to the Cueva del Indio where for CUC$5 each we walked through the caves which were amazing - plus, they were cool. The walk ended at a river inside the cave. Apparently the one way the river continues through the mountain for a kilometre or so. We went the other way over about five or ten minutes in a small motorized boat until we approached the mouth of the cave which was overhung with jungle growth up and down the cliff walls. Down the road we paused again for a drink in the disco in a cave. It was very cool - I see why LP Cycling Cuba suggested it for a stop when staying at Villa Rancho.
Next, the taxi took us to the Mural de la Prehistoria where there is a huge painted wall of stone above a field. It was neat, but really great was the beauty of the scenery as we drove through the mogotes to get there.
Back to the edge of town we stopped at a tobacco plantation / cigar factory. The owner wanted to sell us a package of his own rolled cigars but we were not interested - being non-smokers and all. They served us espresso where we chatted with three Austrians who are traveling around independently. They had been in a resort full of fat, boorish, cultureless Canadians and were not greatly impressed and much preferred the independent approach to travel.
Our final stop was at Los Jazmines which had what I would say are the best views of the Vinales Valley. It was incredible. And when we checked later it seems in low season it was CUC$65 which includes breakfast. The only problem is that you would need transportation from town as it is 4 km south of town over a long windy hill. It could be done with a bike, but running in and out of town a lot would get tough... though you could use a taxi, I suppose.
The taxi returned us to the town centre, we paid our host (who tried to convince us to go with him for a CUC$5 lobster dinner) but we wanted to return to our room. Last night while outside in the chairs, MA was bitten by a number of sandflies; now two on her leg and one on her finger were really swollen so she wanted a Benadryl to temper her immune system's reaction.
My stomach was a little queasy so I took a half Gravol, not wanting to get too sleepy. We had been told that in the little restaurant in the main street. Patio Decimista, traditional Cuban music is played by a live group from 4 to 6 pm, and from 9 pm to midnight. Not wanting to wander in the dark, we have to see the earlier session; our dinner at the casa is at 6 pm so earlier is better.
The heat is about the same as yesterday, so that is tiring, but we must hear the music... so, until I return... adios.
[5 pm] Too hot to be out, we returned to the casa earlier than we'd planned to cool off and for MA to have another Benadryl. And turned on the air conditioner.
Our supper was at the casa again and was cerdo (pork) which was like ham, with rice, black beans, yucca, tomatoes, cucumbers, fried potatoes and fried onions. It was awesome and like last night we gobbled it up like we'd never eaten in our lives. We were stuffed so we left the table to go to our room. It would have been nice to wander but at night it is so dark that we would never find our way back. Thus, I went to bed and read Smith for about two hours, getting ahead of the 50-page minimum I wanted to read so as to finish before we return to the reality of home.
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