Apr 12 - SkyLine Drive at Long Last: Villa Soroa to San Diego de los Banos - Cuba off of the Map (Tours 10 & 11) - 2010 & 2011 🇨🇺

April 12, 2011

Apr 12 - SkyLine Drive at Long Last: Villa Soroa to San Diego de los Banos

El Mirador Hotel, #1, CUC$30

LET'S JUST say that strange for me, I froze all night. The air conditioner was on full blast and I was too groggy to think straight to get up and turn it off. I tossed and turned all night so was pretty tired in the morning. Based on the waking angry lioness nearby's first words - she must have been a bit too cool, too.

We were still out for breakfast, basically on time, though, so at least one of us had joy in their heart over the meal. Yesterday we had noticed a group of cyclists arriving and saw a highway tourist coach - and this morning a man was cleaning it off. I asked him if he was the 'chofer' which he was. Then I asked if there was a possibility of bringing us up to the fork in the road to our SkyLine Drive. He said yes to everything so thought we were ok but was not really sure.

While we were eating, the Cuban guide for the cyclists came along so he actually arranged for the chofer to bring us and our bikes to the top of the hill as soon as we were ready. The group is a UK-based trip and today is their first day of cycling - to Las Terrazas. The bus has seats in the front half and open space for the bikes in the rear half. The two Norwegians who had brreakfast beside us were excited for the climbing ahead when we told them about the hill. After yesterday's ride I wonder if they'd had 17 mojitos for breakfast and were acting drunk!

We quickly ate then finished packing the bikes. I went right to the lobby where I asked the deskman to reserve El Mirador for us tonight so we would have a place to stay. He hemmed and hawed so I said not to worry about it - this way, if we get tired and we DO find a Casa, we won't feel compelled to continue on the San Diego. At the desk I also saw Alippio who had helped us out last year when I hurt my foot.

When MA came along, the chofer helped me to carry the bikes up into the bus - bags still installed. It was great. It took about five or ten minutes and we were at the top of the hill at the turnoff for our road. So grateful we gave the driver our bag of gifts, plus when he dropped us off I gave him CUC$5 as well. And here he was going to do it for nothing at all.

Hitching a ride back up the way we had come yesterday to the start of the SkyLine Drive. With no casas along the way, many mountains and high heat, we decided to shave off this part we had already ridden.

Here we were - on the brink of the ride I had dreamed of for some years. Then we were off. It was exactly as described in the book and online. The road climbed and dropped endlessly. To the summit of many passes where we had to walk a good part of the way in the sweltering heat to screaming descents that brought us to 70 km/h at times, and had to brake to keep from flying off of the road. At times we could see for miles down into the valleys. If it had not been so hot and hazy, we'd have seen to the south and north coasts. It was that dramatic.

Cycling mountains is a cruel activity - at times we would be zonked after climbing, only to drop back down, then see another steep climb around the next corner. Sometimes it was so steep even pushing the bikes was physically exhausting.

Riding and snapping photos - if I drop her camera she'll kill me

The cool morning air has warmed up and now it's starting to get hot out. But oh, what a beautiful ride.

Even in the middle of nowhere there are little settlements nestled in the valleys...

... even pushing up some of the hills was really tough at times...

...and the route amazing as we snaked along the mountain ridges.

This is one of my favourite spots along this route.

Here the route options are: 1. return south out of the mountains and continue along the flat highway or .2. make a right and a left and continue the up and down mountain approach. It felt like a near-vertical climb!
We chose option 2.

After about 15 km we were at Ciro Redondo where a little five-year-old girl played beside her mother near their house by the intersection. I asked the mother about the roads and she said that to the left was to the autopista and carreterra, to the right went through the mountains to Niceto Perez. So, right it was, though I'll admit I would have been alright with dropping out of the mountains - they were tough.

I would say that this next section was more difficult, though more beautiful because of the ruggedness. After one last climb we rolled into Niceto Perez where we came to the branch in the road; left to the autopista; right to La Palma. I asked a woman about the La Palma route and she said that it was very hilly but passable on a bicycle. From all accounts, though, there were no casas in Niceto, so we would have to forego this alternate route to La Palma since we would have had to continue another 50 or 60 km through very mountainous terrain and I know I would not have made it.

The descending road was the roughest part of the day's riding so we had to be careful on the downhills. At Fierro, the Carreterra Central met us. A man from Los Palacios came over to chat with us and told us that we had about another 25 km to go and did we have a pen for him (a common question from people). We did and gave it to him. At Entronque de San Diego we asked the school kids who pointed along the road to the right. We were now 'only' 9 km away. But we were tired. We were almost out of water and Gatorade. My butt was in so much pain that I stood on the pedals a lot so my arms started to ache. To ensure no mistakes in our route I asked people if we were on the right road to San Diego. Yes.

Finally in town, we came straight away to El Mirador hotel. But, only tonight was confirmed since some groups are coming in tomorrow - she would let me know in the morning. Then the bikes - the staff was nervous about having the bikes in the room in case they damaged anything. After assuring her that we would be extremely cautious, she changed our room to a ground-level room and said we could keep the bikes safely in our rooms. Whew!

Resting bikes hoping for overnight shelter in a room

The grounds of El Mirador - very nice and relaxing

Home of the CUC$3.50 roasted chicken meal

Check out the menu including the meal with a BOTTLE of rum!

While waiting for an available room, we went to the patio grill to have one of our best Cuban meals ever. Grilled pork. Black bean rice which was incredible. Tomatoes and cucumbers. A mojito for MA and a Bucanero for me. All for CUC$14! And we were stuffed.

The key came. We moved gear to the room and I crashed with my book, only waking when MA headed poolside to study. I showered and washed my gear, then did the same, heading for the poolside to write.

As darkness descended the moon came out and the temperature was great. Next I went to see what looks like a patio on the roof above the lobby with great views around the hotel. Also up there was the hotel restaurant which was quite attractive and would prove tasty, too, for tonight's supper.

Wanting a wee snack, we went up to this restaurant for a pizza with chorrizo (it was amazing), a beer, and a coke - it all came to CUC$6.10. Then we went to the lobby and confirmed that breakfast was included up in the same restaurant, whcih it was. Incredible at this price. A whole family could stay here on a very limited budget and have a great holiday by taking the bus or taxis to various points out-and-back.

To top off the night, back at the room by 9 pm I was cozy and reading my Wilbur Smith book. After a very long day on the bike, it was a great place to be for resting and re-energizing.

Today's ride: 72 km (45 miles)
Total: 271 km (168 miles)

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