April 30, 2024 - Stari Grad to Jelsa to Vrboska to Stari Grad - A Hop, Skip and a Jump (Tour 25) - 2024 🇭🇷 - CycleBlaze

April 30, 2024

April 30, 2024 - Stari Grad to Jelsa to Vrboska to Stari Grad

Through fields cultivated for thousands of years

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Early dawn light as I walk over to the small family bakery at the point of the harbour. -- Stari Grad, Croatia
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Early dawn light as I walk over to the small family bakery at the point of the harbour. -- Stari Grad, Croatia
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Our early morning ride started out with some climbing out of town and through some tiny but beautiful hilltop village. -- Dol, Croatia
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Our early morning ride started out with some climbing out of town and through some tiny but beautiful hilltop village. -- Dol, Croatia
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Our early morning ride started out with some climbing out of town and through some tiny but beautiful hilltop village. -- Dol, Croatia
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See those tiny villages way up there? That's where we had to climb - Vrisnik, Croatia
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The riva in Jelsa has many cafes and restaurants and is very beautiful. -- Jelsa, Croatia
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The riva in Jelsa has many cafes and restaurants and is very beautiful. -- Jelsa, Croatia
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The riva in Jelsa has many cafes and restaurants and is very beautiful. -- Jelsa, Croatia
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The riva in Jelsa has many cafes and restaurants and is very beautiful. -- Jelsa, Croatia
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The riva in Jelsa has many cafes and restaurants and is very beautiful. -- Jelsa, Croatia
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As we headed out of town the seaside path showed off the green and blue hues of the Adriatic. -- Jelsa, Croatia
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As we headed out of town the seaside path showed off the green and blue hues of the Adriatic. -- Jelsa, Croatia
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Adriatic greens and blues, island hilltops in the distance and a path right alongside the sea. -- between Jelsa and Vrboska, Croatia
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After our bike ride we walked along the shoreline on the opposite side of the harbour from our apartment. -- Stari Grad, Croatia
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Though not in every photo, Pookie has been in my pannier every pedal stroke of the way all through this tour. -- Stari Grad, Croatia
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TODAY was a day where we could set off with a very minimal load. I had booked two nights in the same place, so my load was a lot lighter.

I had read about the small family bakers just down the street so I went for a walk shortly after 6 am where I was able to catch the early dawn glow over the mountains and lighting up the bobbing boats in the harbour. The bakery was just setting thing out so I knew things were fresh - I picked up a few cherry treats and returned to the room to make some lattes downstairs with the Saeco machine and enjoyed them with the pastries.

The few things we did need were packed on to the bikes including coats in case it was cool on the road (they were not used at all) and we set off to the  east to the other side of the island. The route was to be a quasi-circular route. The first part included some serious enough climbs, though not too much. We climbed up through many vineyards, fig tree groves and olive groves. The tiny towns usually had a beautiful stone church perched on the top of the climb and then the road would turn back down providing a nice mandering roll back to the lower elevations.

More quickly than I anticipated, we got to busy Jelsa, set on the water with a beautiful park and a nice Riva with many shops. Just prior to this we stopped at a cafe for lattes and goodies then continued to the water. From here the route took us along the shoreline route which was absolutely stunning. Typical Adriatic blues and greens, sailboats about and islands in the distance with their hazy hills. This shoreline ride continued to Vrboska then turned inland as we headed west. "Stari Grad Plain on the Adriatic island of Hvar is a cultural landscape that has remained practically intact since it was first colonized by Ionian Greeks from Paros in the 4th century BC." The route through this plain was almost arrow straight and somewhat level so we were able to travel much faster than when climbing at other times. Part of the route was gravel with pot-holes and largeish rocks, but even this was better than the street conditions back in my hometown of Cochrane, ON.

With our small wheels we struggled with the rough road more than larger-wheeled bikes. As we rolled along a large stretch of cyclists passed on their mountain bikes. We later learned that they are a group of between 40 to 80 riders from Ljubljana. And then we were at to the edge of Stari Grad where we recognized the road on which we had left this morning. Our circle was complete, and really, so was most of the cycling we would be doing on this tour.

We returned to our apartment to drop off the bikes and get cleaned up before heading out for a walk along the seaside path on the other side of the harbour. In a number of places building was going on including what looked like a resort of nice new villas, some of which had their own swimming pools (for one family, that is). Once we got to a point kind of across from the ferry terminal we stopped to stick our feet in the water when suddenly two rogue waves came crashing against the seawall soaking both of us. After drying off in the sun we went in to the shade to watch the boats float by for a bit, then headed back toward the centre where we could sit on the terrace for a snack and a beer/cider under the canopy.

It had been an early morning so it was time for a snooze followed by a walk over to the Tommy supermarket for some supper fixins, some breakfast food and some snacks for tomorrow's ferry to Split. It hadn't donned on me that tomorrow is May Day so everything will be shut down and I am guessing people will be around and about everywhere. Not sure what the food/restaurant situation will be like in Split tomorrow.

Today's ride: 30 km (19 miles)
Total: 319 km (198 miles)

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