Though we had seen some lavender, this was the only field of lavender. And olives. And limestone. And our bikes. This was on the long climb to Pupnat. -- Otok Korčula, Croatia
We climbed further and further, hoping to find the summit, but it just kept climbing. So we walked. The hills were covered with olive terraces. -- Otok Korčula, Croatia
We finally stumbled upon na cafe along our route. We carried the bikes up to the terrace and under the umbrellas to avoid the few raindrops and enjoyed a pair of lattes each. -- Čara, Croatia
We finally stumbled upon na cafe along our route. We carried the bikes up to the terrace and under the umbrellas to avoid the few raindrops and enjoyed a pair of lattes each. -- Čara, Croatia
After our lattes we crossed the road and noticed an orange tree where MA helped herself to a few fruit only to find that they were pithy and dry. The Good Fellow showed her. -- Čara, Croatia
In the final few kilometres into town, we noticewd this beautiful walkway down below us in the ravine. Since we'll be walking anyway, we figure we'll walk out of here tomorrow on this path. -- Zavalatica, Croatia
After the long dewscent from Čara, we ended up in this enchanting little village alongside the sea in an apartment adjacent to the sparkling water. -- Zavalatica, Croatia
After the long dewscent from Čara, we ended up in this enchanting little village alongside the sea in an apartment adjacent to the sparkling water. -- Zavalatica, Croatia
After the long dewscent from Čara, we ended up in this enchanting little village alongside the sea in an apartment adjacent to the sparkling water. -- Zavalatica, Croatia
After the long dewscent from Čara, we ended up in this enchanting little village alongside the sea in an apartment adjacent to the sparkling water. -- Zavalatica, Croatia
After the long dewscent from Čara, we ended up in this enchanting little village alongside the sea in an apartment adjacent to the sparkling water. -- Zavalatica, Croatia
After the long dewscent from Čara, we ended up in this enchanting little village alongside the sea in an apartment adjacent to the sparkling water. -- Zavalatica, Croatia
After the long dewscent from Čara, we ended up in this enchanting little village alongside the sea in an apartment adjacent to the sparkling water. -- Zavalatica, Croatia
After the long dewscent from Čara, we ended up in this enchanting little village alongside the sea in an apartment adjacent to the sparkling water. -- Zavalatica, Croatia
After the long dewscent from Čara, we ended up in this enchanting little village alongside the sea in an apartment adjacent to the sparkling water. -- Zavalatica, Croatia
INITIALLY it had looked like today was going to be a day with some tough climbs. Was this the case?
First up was to devour our breakfast goodies and pack up - in other words, the norm on a bike tour. There was no real rush because it was 8 C - two degrees below my cycling threshold - plus there was no rain in the forecast, so it did not matter how long the cycling would take, whether easy or difficult.
Once we had left the apartment and headed down to the old city, we stopped for a few moments to do a slight repair on MA's bike. Her water bottle cage had snapped but was still in place, so a few zip ties rendered it usable hopefully to the end of the tour. Sorted, we continued on our way alongside the sea.
The route was right beside the sea and was absolutely amazing. Coves here and there and the occasional crazy driver. Their cars seem different than what we have. Here they have off or on with nothing in between. No close calls for us but at one point one nut in a car raced past and almost head-on with an oncoming dump truck. Oy.
Eventually, we saw a sign for Pupnat indicating it was 5 km away. Was that all? (foreshadowing). The road we had chosen was fairly vertical so we decided to walk the first little bit. Around the next bend it continued to climb, but now a little bit steeper. We were now at 27 m of elevation. Views were pretty good down to the sea and across to the peninsula. We continued to walk when the next corner introduced us to an even steeper road. As did the next, the next and the next ten to fifteen switchbacks. But the views became incredible and we got so high that by now we could see over the top of the P peninsula to the extremely rugged and mountainous mainland. By the time we walked to the top of the mountain pass we were at around 320 m. Yes, it was a long walk, and yes it took quite a while to walk those 5 km. As the crow flies we had gone nowhere - as the elevation increases we had gone a lot. This is by no means a complaint - the terrain was pretty and the views back behind us to the sea and land were incredible.
When we finally arrived to Pupnat we decided to look for a cafe for a snack - alas, their was a Studenac store, but it was fairly limited in offerings and rather than a tasty cherry pastry, they had a few baguettes. Um, no. And the only cafe we saw seemed to be closed for the season. So we continued on our way.
We had crested the mountain and crossed the central highway when we started to coast downhill. Down we went, faster faster - all of which we will have to re-climb tomorrow for our ride. Again, absolutely beautiful with many vineyards. Upon arriving to Čara we did see a cafe so we stopped. The young fellow working there was more than willing to have us carry our bikes up to the sitting area where we ordered a couple of lattes. Perhaps some of the best I have ever tasted. We knew we were close to our next stop so were in no hurry to continue... so we ordered another pair of lattes. While we sipped blissfully away, a few raindrops fell, so it was nice to be where we were until the clouds dissipated and the sun returned. I paid the eight Euros for the drinks and we were away, soon stopping at the church across thew road where MA dared to pluck a few oranges from the adjacent tree. Would she be stricken by the good fellow himself? No, but he got her back by offering empty pithy oranges that were inedible.
The last few kilometres to town were downhill (also to be climbed tomorrow) with a section alongside what seemed to be an old original stone walkway with a canopy of beautiful trees. Since we'll be walking a good portion out of here tomorrow, we're thinking to take that walk tomorrow.
I could see some shimmering blue through the trees and suddenly we were in the most picturesque of villages with its limestone buildings clinging on the hills overlooking the pretty harbour. The gps guided us to a building but nobody was around until a car pulled up, a lady popped out, and she pointed out our room saying that the owner's wife was upstairs with her newborn baby sleeping. We carried the bikes up to our terrace into what is the prettiest apartment we have had on this tour. We are about 3 m from the seaside and as I sit on the terrace typing, I can hear the water lapping against the pier.
The afternoon had us poking around this tiny village, heading to the Studenac for food for the next three meals and then alongside the water on the limestone. On our way back we noticed two cyclists sitting on the pier so we went over to chat with them. They are a couple from Slovenia (between Ljubljana and Maribor) and are on holiday for a week. They are basing themselves out of Korčula and doing out-and-back rides. Yes, this meant they had to return up that big hill to get back to town. As it turns out, they are staying very close to our apartment that we had last night. Who knows, but maybe we'll run in to them when we return to town in a couple of days.
Back in our apartment, we were getting a bit peckish, so we pulled out a chips snack and enjoyed them with a splash of apple cider and then local white wine that was provided by the apartment hosts. Still hungry, and having missed out on lunch, we had an early dinner on our terrace but it started to get a bit cool. A long day is coming tomorrow, basically the longest and toughest of the whole tour, so we'll try to rest up for the climbs that are a comin'.
Today's ride: 32 km (20 miles) Total: 204 km (127 miles)
