The Pelješac Peninsula is a wine region on the Adriatic coast of Croatia between the popular tourist destinations of Split and Dubrovnik. -- between Ston and Žuljana, Croatia
The Pelješac Peninsula is a wine region on the Adriatic coast of Croatia between the popular tourist destinations of Split and Dubrovnik. -- between Ston and Žuljana, Croatia
The Pelješac Peninsula is a wine region on the Adriatic coast of Croatia between the popular tourist destinations of Split and Dubrovnik. -- between Ston and Žuljana, Croatia
The Pelješac Peninsula is a wine region on the Adriatic coast of Croatia between the popular tourist destinations of Split and Dubrovnik. -- between Ston and Žuljana, Croatia
We stopped at the wine museum for a latte and a rest but didn't linger too long - rain is up to its nasty tricks again and trying to sabotage the tour. -- between Ston and Žuljana, Croatia
The town is right at water's edge so in summer season it must be crawling with holidy-makers. Now, not so much and everything was deserted and quiet. Only the supermarket was open - thankfully. -- Žuljana, Croatia
The town is right at water's edge so in summer season it must be crawling with holidy-makers. Now, not so much and everything was deserted and quiet. Only the supermarket was open - thankfully. -- Žuljana, Croatia
The view from our balcony. We had booked one room but the owner switched us to aother one with a nice terrace and a view. The bikes are nestled into this alcove to keep the rain away when it comes this afternon and tonight. -- Žuljana, Croatia
Don't ever say that nothing can go wrong when bicycle touring - you only hope that the mishaps are minor and you can keep on rolling. So what on earth am I talking about? I shall explain shortly.
Yesterday we had picked up some yogourt, cereal and fruit and such for breakfast so we gobbled them up as I looked outside excitedly into the bright blue sky. The bags were packed, they were carried down to the bike level then we ferried everything down the several staircases to ground level where we loaded up the bikes for the road. With the gps on it circled us around the walls then away from town and on our way.
On the route heading away from the old town I glanced back then exclaimed to MA how awesome the walls looked as they snaked up the mountain. She looked back, then I foolishly stopped the bike as I wanted a photo and BANG - she ran right into the back of my bike. Fender bender. My rear fender snapped and pieces flew across the road. Darn.
Artsy photo moment set aside for the moment, we surveyed the damage. Luckily I had some duct tape tucked away in my pannier so dug it out and began sorting out the fender with the broken piece we found on the road. The fender was pieced back together and since the duct tape was black, the finished product was barely noticeable. When it rains next (very soon, it seems) I'll be just as wet as before. Lesson - when bike touring, don't suddenly stop if you're riding in a peloton greater than one person.
Bike re-packed, we resumed fairly unscathed. There was some climbing out of town and then for the first few kilometres we followed the road which now had a parallel highway carved through the valley. The new highway kept a lot of traffic from our road, but it sure was a blight on the otherwise beautiful scenery.
As we got further from town, we saw a sign that we were now in a designated wine region, and sure enough, there were vineyards everywhere and seemingly new ones being put in. The terrain climbed for the first while up to about 280 m. We came to a wine museum which also had a cafe so we stopped for a couple of lattes, but it was a bit cool and we wanted to get to our lodging before the rain came. There were a number of tiny villages along the way with beautiful limestone buildings, many homes that seemed to have wine, olive oil and liqueurs for sale. I still want to find some fig brandy.
We came across the top of the pass when the road started to descend. We stopped a few times for photo moments and kept braking so we wouldn't get scary fast on the way. At one point I heard a funny little 'ching' sound so immediately stopped to look over the bike in case it had been something on my bike. MA scanned the roadway and found some random nut - and when I looked at it it seemed to be a 1/4" bolt which I knew fit a number of the bolts on my bike. I looked at my bike a bit closer to find that, indeed, a nut was missing from the bracket that clamps my rear fender to the bike frame. My poor rear fender - first hit and broken, now a few screws loose. Or do I have a few screws loose? Not sure. Anyway, I hand-tightened the nut with the plan to use the wrench once at our room which would be within a few minutes.
The gps brought us to the door of what looked like a cluster of four houses and ended up being our guesthouse. Ana, the owner, showed us to our room but then asked if we would like a room with a terrace for the same price since it had a roof over the terrace to keep the rain from our bikes overnight. Yes, please! The terrace looks down across the village to the shimmering Adriatic, though it is grayish today as the clouds have returned to welcome tonight's rain and tomorrow's downpour.
I sorted out my bike, plus adjusted my brake cables - both bikes will need brake pads after this tour. They are being used up as we come down these great big mountains, so as they wear out the levers bottom out and I need to tighten the cables.
We wandered down through the village and the seaside. I stuck my hand into the water to find it surprisingly warm. I would like to go for a swim but only on a hot day, or at least a warm one. At the end of the pier we noticed a trail up along the cliff overlooking the sea so headed up and around for a few hundred metres. Beautiful and I imagine it would be incredible on a sunny day. We soon turned back, though, when a few raindrops started to fall and I started to dissolve.
Next stop, the Studenac supermarket. Reviews were bad for the place. Prices on items not marked, clerks who put in the wrong (higher) amounts, rudeness. There was none of that, and we had a pleasant experience selecting snacks for dinner and breakfast tomorrow, as well as a few calories for the road.
After shopping it was a return to the room, and our timing could not have been better. Soon after arriving the rain started. I know we are going to get drenched tomorrow, but if I can avoid it today, all the better. And I did.
Today's ride: 30 km (19 miles) Total: 132 km (82 miles)
