January 26th

January 26, 2023

Hsinchu

Debbie is up for a ride and the one I've been recently looking at appeals. It means getting a train south to Hsinchu City - a 40-minute journey - but they leave regularly and after checking the timetable, we aim to get the 9:54 departure.

It's been chilly for a few days but today's weather forecast is decent with warmer temperatures predicted. However, it's pretty cool when we leave home and ride into town. Maybe after 10 the sun will magically appear and burn off the dismal vibe. At least that's what we're hoping.

Once on Platform 3A with our tickets, I realise my 7" tablet that's loaded with edited screenshots of the route is still sitting on my desk rather than being in my bar-bag. What a pain. Debbie has her phone, so I reckon we can manage with Google Maps.

Waiting for the 9:54 south to Hsinchu City

We have to stand with our bikes as there are no hangers or even special spaces on the 9:54.

The couple of sights I've earmarked in the centre of Hsicnhu should be easy enough to find. They're just a few blocks from the train station.

The first is said to be the first street built in the city, but it's really just an alley and having walked its short length, we find it doesn't contain anything historic. There's a row of century-old brick buildings facing it at the far end and I take a shot of some windows that have arched lintels before we ride past a temple and try to find a wooden building from the Japanese era (1895-1945).

It's now clear that the weather isn't going to be any better than it has been for a few days. It's overcast with some dark areas and it feels like it might rain before long.

Said to be the first street built in Hsinchu

Debbie gets the location of the old Japanese place on Google Maps but we soon get a bit confused. It's down a small lane and I expect locals to know about it. Debbie asked one elderly woman outside her home, which must be no more than a street away, but she says she's never heard of it. Thanfkully a second local does know and he tells us where to turn, but we still ride past the alley's entrance. After doubling back, we head to its end and find that it's open - the place is a government-owner property that's been renovated and made into a cafe.

The wooden house once belonged to a doctor and was built in 1943, only a couple of years before the end of WWII. There used to be a hospital adjacent and there's a walled garden encircling the house. Inside are one or two customers, but a few outside tables are empty and while the staff say it might drizzle soon, I prefer being in closer contact with the elements so that's where Debbie and I sit. Hopefully it stays dry. It's not what you would call a cheap place and the equivalent of US$15 goes on a couple of coffees and snacks - mine being a piece of toast with chocolate spread.

While we're sat there, it seems like today's ride south is a not such an appealing idea what with the weather being uncooperative and me not having the screenshots to refer to - just finding this old house took a bit of doing with Goole Maps.

Getting chilled even more in rain is not going to happen and the thing is my planned route is a pretty complex one. It's already about noon and we agree to abandon the ride and just spend a bit of time looking around the nearby city streets. There are a couple of old temples not too far from here.

Iffy - mimicking the Italian brand Illy without knowing the English meaning of iffy

One temple, one we just passed, is called Gaundi and a sign outside says it dates back to the 1700s. It was actually built in Taipei, but got taken down and rebuilt here. I'm not sure why.

The place is very busy with worshippers and dozens of incense sticks are smoking away, lending that familiar smell and giving the dim interior a hazy aura. In fact it's so crowded it feels uncomfortable and with the City God temple being bigger, we head there.

Outside, wgain we lock the bikes up and wander in to smell smoking incense. A couple of large red candles are burning away, so that visitors can light the sticks before using them to pray - then placing them in a large, brass, cauldron-like receptacle.

My bike is making a strange rattling noise and when I look it's teh rear mudgaurd that has broken. It could be weled but it'll be easy to saw off the bottom part of the plastic - about six inches should do it. Then the one set of stays should be OK. That's what has happened to Debbie's and my own commuter bike.

We head back to teh train station and Debbie wants to check out a large NET outlet and we do that for 10 minutes and come away with a pair of jeans and a bush hat. They were marked down.

The next train north that allows bikes is just a 20 minute wait and it has a rack for handging bikes and there's only one other dangling there - a Giant road bike. It's owner is a woman who is at further up the carriage.

As we return north, I sit wondering about my abandoned ride and hope the weather perks up soon.

Today's ride: 15 km (9 miles)
Total: 2,277 km (1,414 miles)

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