Cucuron

July 13, 2023

Here’s another day where the itinerary is just a guess. It’s only got three fixed points that I’m certain of: Bonnieux, where we woke up at dawn sleeping on our tiny balcony and then wrestled our mattress back into our room; Roussillon, where we wandered through its lanes taking in its astonishing colors and then moved on to be stunned again wandering through the nearby ochre quarry; and day’s end in Cuceron, worn down by the heat and waiting for dinner from a perch above the village. The route I’ve mapped out is a pure guess, as likely as any squiggle that connects those three points.

And why Cuceron? We’re avid foreign film fans - especially so back in those years, when Portland’s now defunct foreign film festival was one of the fixed points on our calendar. For years we would dedicate February to it, indulging in a nonstop diet of 30 to 40 films in a month. The Horseman on the Roof, one of Juliette Binoche’s early films, was shot partly in Cuceron. Enough reason to stop by, with the plan to stay over a second night.

In Cuceron, waiting for dinner again. Did I mention that we saw a lot of sun on this tour?

There’s that same book again! Maybe if I stare at this blow-up often enough it will come back to me.

Notre Dame de Beaulieu Church. Leaning against it is a poplar tree, still continuing the centuries-old tradition of honoring the patron saint for saving the village from the plague of 1720.

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