Day 6: Brewster to Chelan

July 21, 2021

I left the Apple Avenue motel at 7:30 AM and stopped at the mini-McDonald's for breakfast. Pedaled out of Brewster at 8 AM under very smoky skies. The temperature was an astonishingly low 70F. The sky was so dark that it seemed like a thunderstorm might start any minute. But there were no clouds. Everything in the sky was smoke.

Most apple orchards use espalier structures.

The smoke doesn't do much to improve the scenery. And the smoke seemed to get denser as I pedaled south on US 97.

Smoky Columbia River/Lake Pateros and US 97 south of Brewster.

After only 7 easy miles I stopped for more than an hour at the city park in the town of Pateros, hoping the smoke would improve. But the wind stayed relentlessly calm and the smoke stayed relentlessly dense. I felt cold after sitting a long time. 71F in a dense dark gray cloud of smoke. The smoke gave me a headache, but I could see bits of blue sky to the northwest. I just need the usual westerly wind to blow the smoke away.

I passed through Pateros during two previous bike tours. I even camped at a designated pedalers and paddlers campsite on the lakefront. The city park is very nice for such a small town. Same as Brewster, Pateros is a planned town built in 1967 just before Wells Dam flooded the original town site. Pateros seemed to be struggling during previous visits. Now it seems more prosperous.

Fishing horseman sculpture in Pateros. Mouth of Methow river on the right.

When I left Pateros I could see some blue sky a few miles to the west, giving me hope that the smoke will blow away soon. But dense smoke still filled the river canyon.

Mouth of the Methow river, part of Lake Pateros. Smoke from the fire that closed Loup Loup pass.

After the extra-long stop in Pateros I continued 8 easy miles south on US 97 to the Wells Dam park and visitor center.

I vividly remember visiting this park for the first time in 2007 and discovering that my bike frame was broken. That tour ended prematurely in Chelan as a result.

Wells Dam is built and operated by Douglas county public utility district. It's a huge undertaking to be managed by a small rural county. Wells Dam is the 3rd of 5 Columbia river dams I see during the tour. The dam isn't a spectacular sight but the park and outdoor visitor center are excellent.

The Columbia river dams are "run of the river" dams. The reservoirs behind each dam are always full and overflowing at whatever is the flow of the river. The goal is to have all of the river's flow drop through the power plants and little or no flow "wasted" over the spillway. The amount of electricity generated is directly proportional to the river's flow.

The Columbia river reservoirs are also used for recreation and irrigating nearby farms and orchards. The water level remains constant, unlike the many water storage reservoirs in the western US that are increasingly empty because the summer demand for water exceeds the winter/spring supply of water.

Lush irrigated grass at the Wells Dam visitor center park.

The original 1960's turbine runners at Wells Dam were replaced by a more efficient design in the 1990's. An old turbine runner is on display in the park, with a rubber pad underneath that encourages people to climb on the blades.

Wells Dam park also has a well protected and secured display of Indian pictographs that were rescued from an area that is now underwater.

Pictographs rescued from an area that is now underwater.

I stopped for a long time at Wells Dam park, waiting for the smoke to gradually clear. I got on the road at about 12:30 when the sky was half blue and half smoky. The smoke was gradually moving east thanks to the building westerly wind.

Columbia river and US 97. Blue sky looking south.

Smoke is no fun, but it gives me a better appreciation of blue sky and good visibility when it finally goes away.

Columbia river looking upstream. Smoke cloud blowing away to the northeast.

On 2 previous bike tours I took the direct route to Chelan on US 97A. This time I took a detour to see something different. I continued south 5 miles on US 97 to the village Chelan Falls, with detours across the bridge and to Chelan Falls park.

US 97 has heavy traffic with many trucks. It's not a tranquil road but it has a wide paved shoulder. The shoulder had very little tire debris. It has almost continuous good views, with few trees to obstruct view.

The Chelan Falls bridge is too narrow and busy for me to stop on the bridge.

Chelan Falls park is a popular swimming park operated by Chelan county. The water is the outflow from lake Chelan, with a distinctive turquoise color that is visibly different from the blue Columbia river that I could see in the distance.

Chelan Falls park swimming area. Glacial runoff from Lake Chelan.

Behind the swimming area is the deeply eroded canyon of the Chelan river flowing from Lake Chelan to the Columbia river. The river has a huge gradient, but not much water flows in the river now. Instead, most of the water flowing out of Lake Chelan goes through a pipe to a power plant. The paddle boarder below is in the outflow of the power plant.

Most of the runoff from Lake Chelan goes through a pipe to the power plant. Chelan river canyon visible.

Chelan Falls is close to the Columbia river. Next is a 500 foot climb on WA 150 to the city of Chelan. It's a busy highway but it has a wide shoulder and outstanding views.

Climbing above the Columbia river on WA 150.

For the first time today I felt very warm. Pedaling up a 6% grade in afternoon sun. Still appreciating blue sky and good visibility.

WA 150 connects to US 97A on the south edge of the city of Chelan. Coming into the city I passed huge cold storage, packing, and shipping facilities for the Chelan fruit growers co-op.

I continued on US 97A through the city of Chelan. The downtown area was built in the early 20th century.

I continued past downtown to see a bit of the lake shore. I will see more tomorrow, but I have time to kill. I went a couple miles up the west shore, then circled through town to the city park on the east shore.

Lake Chelan is a popular resort area. Warm sunny weather and cool deep water are the main attractions.

Lake Chelan has huge waterfront resorts.

Lake Chelan also has many miles of upscale waterfront homes.

Today's last tourist stop is the Chelan River Walk which is part paved walkways and part boardwalks over water. The area was once along the Chelan river but now it's along Lake Chelan because a dam raised the lake level 19 feet.

I enjoyed wandering around the Chelan waterfront. I've seen it all before so I know where to go. The temperature was only 83F/28C. Perfect. Still genuinely appreciating the blue sky.

Then I backtracked through downtown to the Midtowner Motel, arriving a little after the 4 PM check-in time. It's mid-week but the 2-star motel is the most expensive lodging of the trip. Chelan is an upscale resort town. Dinner was at an old-school diner across the street.

Backtrack through downtown to Midtowner Motel.

Today I have one regret. I should have taken a third detour at Chelan falls, down the access road to the Chelan river canyon trailhead. It would have been fun to hike in the steep canyon and find out how much water flows in the Chelan river.

Lake Chelan isn't for everybody. High prices and crowds might deter some bike travelers, but I think it's worth it to see an interesting glacial lake.

Smoke was a problem until noon, but the afternoon made up for it. A decent day overall.

Distance: 39.1 miles (62.6 km)
Average Speed: 7.9 mph (12.6 km/h)
Ascent/Descent: +1399/-1101 feet (+427/-336 m)

Today's ride: 39 miles (63 km)
Total: 237 miles (381 km)

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