Crested Butte - Paonia - Colorado Colors Tour 2021

September 26, 2021

Crested Butte - Paonia

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I did not sleep well last night, anticipating the big ride today. It should be a payback, easy day for the climb over Cottonwood Pass. We have minimal climbing to Kebler Pass today. The wild card is the dirt downhill. Alison and crew had a rough go of it. They even walked stretches because of loose gravel and washboard. A friend from work says they drove up last weekend to see the colors (Kebler is a common destination for leaf peepers). Krystina said that there was a sign saying 'mag chloride just applied', and she thought the surface was fine. We did not see any notice about mag and the surface looked quite dry.

I'm ahead of myself. We walked to the Paradise Cafe, near our motel for breakfast at 7 AM. I wasn't excited about the hour, but Genny said we should beat the Sunday crowd. I thought that everyone would be in bed, enjoying their day of rest. There was one other table seated when we walked in. Service was slow, but the food was excellent. We were well fueled for the trip. I also noted that Genny was correct. By the time we finished eating at 8 AM, every table was full.

9 AM was our depart time. I thought I would be sitting around waiting, with that early breakfast. But, I kept busy and was out the door right on time. A man held the door open for me who had driven here Kebler yesterday from Montrose. I asked him how the road surface was. He looked confused? I specifically asked if it was washboard. He looked even more puzzled and asked me what that was.

It was obvious we would have to get on the road and see for ourselves! I had promised Genny a nice ride to the top and assured her that the views would be worth riding on her day of rest. The pitch straight from the edge of town was directly up! I'm not sure she trusted my recommendation at that point. Luckily, we quickly topped off and got back in the middle chain ring. I did not use the granny gear again the entire day!

The top was mile 8. I enjoyed looking around and remembering riding her with Fred and Moni. On that trip we had started all the way in Redstone and climbed McClure and then Kebler. Jacinto, John, and Ken were long gone as Moni, Fred, and I crawled to the top at dark. If I had had a tent, I would have pitched it right there! I will always remember the struggle. I don't know what we were thinking, to do so much climbing in one day. My only defense is that it was pre internet days, so we didn't really know what we were getting in for.

Today, we came from the opposite direction and were much happier. There were four miles of excellent dirt on the climb. We wished that the quality would continue on the downhill. Not exactly. There were only a few truly dusty areas and only a few areas with problematic gravel. Our biggest annoyance of the day was ALL of the leaf peepers. They were parked on even the smallest shoulder, here, there, everywhere.

I have to say - I have never seem colors this vibrant. This is indeed the place to be and the time to be here. We took photos around every corner. Each time, we thought the view couldn't get better, the colors couldn't be more varied or striking. But, they were!

Today was totally worth the effort of dealing with the traffic. Everyone was respectful and gave us room. Speeds were slow enough that I never felt the slightest bit endangered. People waited to go around. But, the people! So, so many cars on this tiny dirt road.

Today is Sunday. Perhaps tomorrow would have been better? It doesn't matter, this was the best day of the trip for me. I had chances to look at the views, it wasn't like the Hoosier Pass day where I had to keep one eye on the road, and the other eye on my mirrors. Today, I could enjoy myself, even if I wondered how much dust was in my lungs!

The downhill did seem extra long, because of all of the dirt riding. My long bike is light in the front, I go extra slowly. Jim waited for me any number of times. I don't think it was much of an imposition today, as he had ample opportunity to take photos.

The road mile numbers counted down to zero. I love it when that works out for me. We had 32 miles in when we turned left on Highway 133 at Kebler's Corner. This is a tidy, green campground (with cabins and a general store). Unfortunately for us, they require a two night stay.

Jim and I were happy to take the turn. What we did not anticipate was the headwind! What's with this? We should get at least a few fast, zippy miles today. No - today was not our day. I was okay with it. I had the good fortune to see beauty that some people never experience in their lifetimes. How lucky am I?

Jim wasn't so lucky - he had a flat tire only one mile from the motel. He called Genny for a ride in. I will be surprised if I don't also get a flat. We had a wide, wide shoulder coming into Paonia, but it had glass and retread tire chunks. I just squeezed my tires. So far, so good.

I made a giant error somehow and didn't discover it until last night. I have a favorite motel, right in town, the Rocky Mountain Inn. I described the central courtyard garden area with seating and fountains in detail to Jim and Genny. A Mexican restaurant is two blocks down, and the grocery two more blocks. Two thumbs up.

Last night I was reviewing the day, and only then did I realize that we had reservations at the Redwood Arms! How in the world did that happen? Redwood Arms is out on the main road, we would have to drive into town. It's well rated, but it truly would have been an error if we hadn't had a vehicle.

The owner/check in lady was very chatty. She said they were trying to recover from COVID, they had to close in March and April last year and lost $75,000. in business. On top of that, their insurance went up $540. a month/$18,000. total a year. The reason given was that they were out of town and not close for the fire department. Poor lady, she was very friendly, but said she was tired of working so hard and would like to take a vacation, like me. Does it help that I really, really enjoyed the day?

We made a quick run to the grocery store for breakfast items. It is supposed to be hot again tomorrow and Genny would like to get on the road early, 7:30. We are eating in our rooms. I haven't had oatmeal once this trip! I've eaten three bars the entire time. Full egg and potato breakfasts get me much further down the road than oatmeal. We shall see how I do tomorrow. I bought granola, with extra pecan pieces to supplement, yogurt, and a couple of bananas. I do have Spiz meal replacement with me. I will mix some of that up.

It is a long 34 miles to the top tomorrow, with over 4,000 feet of climbing. We will have plenty of time to enjoy the vistas!