Seaside to Big Sur, California

January 8, 2013

Jack and Janet prepared to guide us out of Seaside and on our way to Big Sur. In the driveway, our collection of four touring bikes made a rather impressive sight. Jack and Janet cycle a lot on a daily basis, so they thought nothing of escorting us out 10 or 20 km. Jack, though, was not feeling so well and headed back home after about 10km. But the day was glorious and warm, so Janet decided to go all the way to Big Sur. Talk about hard core, 50 km up into the mountainous coast is more than just a casual jaunt - to us anyway.

Lots of touring equipment gets set to hit the road. Between the four of us, we almost have a " critical mass" on the road.

These are sortof our next stops, each sort of 40 km apart, with hills. In practice we may blow through Ragged Point and make for San Simeon.

The way was extremely beautiful, with views of the rocky coast, roadside flowers, cattle grazing on green pastures by sea cliffs, and the now barren hills - with only grass and no tree cover.

A strange combination of heavy erosion and dry hills behind. Interesting formation!

A roadside flowering shrub. There was also big quantities of poison oak.

Coastal cows. One ranch seems to own a lot of this area.

At Point Lobos Preserve we took advantage of what Janet knew to be the last restroom for 35 km. Janet is a docent at Point Lobos and knows the area well. While I waited by the bikes, a lifeguard/peace officer who had his truck and lifesaving Seadoo parked nearby asked me some of the standard questions. But when Janet reappeared, it turned out the two knew each other. Moreover, Janet had witnessed the lifeguard save a man's life earlier, and the conversation turned to questions about that.

The situatiion and conversation were extremely representative of goings on in this coastal region. A 44 year old man who had surfed in his youth decided to give it another whirl. But he chose a day when the surf was too high. When he realized his mistake, he tried to make for shore but his board got smashed in half. The lifeguard saw this, and since the surfer still had half a board, took the time to get on a wet suit and launch the rescue boat. Still the waves were extremely high and the lifeguard was almost thrown from the boat. He is attached by a lanyard, though, and essentially can not lose the boat, I guess.

Janet witnessed the guard (Kevin) pilot the boat more or less straight up a wall of water. Kevin estimates this at 20 feet high. In the photo, he is showing us just how high that was. He did in fact succeed in snagging the hapless surfer and passed him over to the fire boat. Later, they received a letter from the man thanking them for saving his life. However, Janet points out that the number of rangers and lifeguards has been cut in the region due to budget. To some extrent she and her docent assocation have stepped in, funding at least one staff position and providing many hours of volunteer time.

Officer Kevin tells the tale of the recent rescue.

Kevin is indicating how high the waves were.

Suitably refreshed by that last toilet, we three set off up the Big Sur cliffs. At Hurricane Point Janet had decided to carry on all the way with us, so tapping a feeble cell signal she called Jack. The idea was for him to come out in the truck and collect her at Big Sur. Unfortunately the wires crossed and Jack understood Janet to be heading back. So he set out to pick her up to the north of where we were.

By the time we reached Big Sur there was still no Jack, and cell signals were even flakier. Dodie and I had secured a room at the Big Sur River Inn, which is almost the only choice here. It looked like we might be sharing the big bed with Janet! Janet did finally get a message through to Jack, and he doubled back to come south for her. It had been an anxious hour or two for her, and a tiring experience for him. We hope that the hot food that we got at the Inn rebuilt their strength. In any event, we sent them back down the mountain as rested as possible.

Where is Jack? It is frustrating since we are used to constant communication to be cut off with no or flaky cell reception. At least we had this great lodge to sit in.

We are left today with a warm glow for having met these generous and good natured people, a warm glow from the stunning scenery that we passed through, and the knowledge that the temperature hit 20 today (68 degrees F). So that's a lot of warmth all around!

Today's ride: 55 km (34 miles)
Total: 1,612 km (1,001 miles)

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