August 16, 2024
To Verona
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Last night's accommodation, Hotel Drago, seemed to be a destination rather than a one-night stand. I don't think they've had too many dusty panniers parked in their lobby. And the standard of dress was definitely 'smart casual' rather than 'smelly lycra' (though, to be fair, we change our shirts every second day, needed or not).
However, we enjoyed our stay particularly time in the pool. It was actually an effort to get some of us moving this morning, despite knowing of high temperatures to come.
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3 months ago
After yesterday's crazy ride along the lake, we're hoping for better this morning. There is a shared path along the lake edge (mostly) but our track varies, depending on the density of dog-walkers and other dawdlers. The road is faster but also shoulderless (mostly) and very busy. So, we dawdle, then we sprint, then dawdle. It's not great progress but we're certainly enjoying the full lake experience. Already, family groups and couples, all with their poor dogs in tow, have set up camp for the day on the grass or beach.
Garda town, when we finally make it, is heaving this morning. 'Walk your bike' signs appear regularly and there's a massive market to negotiate before we can find a place to sit for coffee. And afterwards, as we make our way still further down the coast, we meet further market stalls, further invitations to walk our bikes and further groups of dawdlers.
This has been entertaining but it's taken all morning to ride 30km. As a nearby church bell tolls 12 noon, we turn away from the frippery and climb back to the Adige Valley.
Our detour to Gardasee has been an eye-opener after weeks of riding on well-defined cycle paths through the countryside. It's as if we entered an alternate reality yesterday; one where it's normal to pour oneself into one's tiniest, tightest and brightest underwear then to spreadeagle oneself on the lake shore to soak up those dangerous rays.
Soon enough, our track puts us onto a quiet cycle path alongside the Canale Biffis, an offshoot of the Adige River. After a brief lunch break, we keep moving, keen to get to Verona's main station to sort out some train tickets. There's also a quick visit to a grocery store before we and our bikes take up residence in an apartment booked for three nights. It's good to stop.
Today's ride: 61 km (38 miles)
Total: 1,198 km (744 miles)
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