To Nauders - Over the Alps and back again - CycleBlaze

August 9, 2024

To Nauders

...over a very high hill, but not THE Reschenpass

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Yesterday's Fernpass ride really pushed us to our limits. Luckily, our accommodation turned out to be everything that the pension in the shadow of Neuschwanstein wasn't: roomy, clean, professionally run - and just across the road from a hotel-restaurant that served a  hearty regional dinner.

That short excursion and writing and editing video for this journal took care of the evening. Oh, except for a discussion about today. We both realised that a second day of 70+km and climbing around 1,000m was a bad idea. There's a local train that travels 16km up the Inn valley, leaving at 7.47 in the morning. So the new plan is to take an hour of cycling from the start of the day, giving us a more realistic target given that today will end with the (not) Reschenpass climb.

This morning, we're packed, dressed and in the breakfast room 10 minutes before it officially opens at 7am. We grab lunch supplies, with Madam's blessing, and are on our bikes for the 4km downhill ride to the station (in the Alps, everyting is either UP or DOWN - there's no middle ground).

The machine allows us to buy tickets for ourselves and bikes without a hitch, so we push the bikes over to the far platform where our train is waiting. So far, so good. We're feeling pretty chuffed with ourselves, to be honest.

This is a very straightforward train experience; we roll the bikes on and fasten them side on, with straps provided.
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The Inn River accompanies us to our destination, as it will do on our ride.
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And, to celebrate the good start, we decide to have a cheeky second breakfast on arrival at the Landeck-Zams station. Morning coffee #1.
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Now, according to the Strava route that Navman plotted a few months ago, we are meant to do a 250m climb on leaving Landeck. As we leave town, though, he spots the familiar cycle route signage alongside the river. Instantly, we throw out silly Strava and commit to the route right in front of us. This turns out to be the Right Thing to Do. 

You mean we could've been up there?
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We're steadily climbing all morning as we follow the Inn upstream. The track starts as a cycle path on the left bank with a busy road on the far side. As the valley narrows into a gorge, we briefly cross and join the road on a painted shoulder, but it does widen again and we return to our own side.

So far, it has been easy riding - a few ups and downs but manageable. There's also been a bit of unrideable gravel but, after yesterday's epic gravel-pushing, we take it in our stride.  Prutz is a busy little town. We ride past a bäckerie but have second thoughts. It's not a good idea to turn down coffee when touring; you never when the next opportunity will come along. This is our rationale for coffee #2.

The Inn, just upstream of a hydro dam.
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We're heading for that pass I guess.
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Yup, still on the Claudia Augusta. Good to know.
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The medieval Altfinstermünz fortress, a well-known attraction on the Claudia Augusta. It was once a customs post on the Austrian-Swiss border.
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Alpine landscape.
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Karen PoretA true picture postcard!
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3 months ago

We're in uncharted territory here. Tour Leader/ Navman is not his usual perky self, even while recognising he's riding in fantastic alpine surroundings on a blue-sky day. So we stop at yet another café (this one attached to a bike shop) in Pfunds for refreshments. Coffee #3 for me - all before lunchtime. What can possibly go wrong?

Very little, as it happens. We follow the river for a few more km until the little town of Martina. It's already past lunchtime but we're keen to do the final ascent of the Reschenpass first. At Martina the route takes us straight up the side of a hill in a series of 11 hair pins. It's a sealed road, for which we're thankful, and not too much traffic - other than cyclists. Road cyclists and e-bikers whizz past us of course;  I feel as though I can say with confidence there were no other senior cycle tourists  on loaded muscle bikes on this climb. Thank goodness for that third cup of coffee! The gradient is constant though. We climb for over 6km, with no let-up, at around 6 to 8 percent.

Looking down at the valley floor from halfway up.
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Robyn RichardsTo Jennie EastonYes, we are!
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3 months ago
Our lunch spot at the summit. It's all downhill from here.
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Jennie EastonGo you guys! Glad you had a fairly fine day for it.
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3 months ago
Robyn RichardsTo Jennie EastonIt was very hot indeed.
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3 months ago
Jennie EastonOh. I forgot about the heat! I was thinking about the views 🤪
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3 months ago

We can see Nauders, our destination, from the summit and it's not too long before we've found a supermarket and ridden to the door of our apartment - home for the next three nights. We've fallen into the lap of the gods, it seems. The apartment is a cut above our usual lodgings, immaculately presented with loads of extras (sauna anyone?) and with those high sarked timber ceilings that Bruce loves. It's OK though. I've spread two loads of laundry around the place so it looks like home.

Today's ride: 55 km (34 miles)
Total: 877 km (545 miles)

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Jill BrinsleyWow!! Some seriously beautiful scenery and clearly excellent planning! I bet you’re looking forward to some rest time in such a gorgeous location.
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3 months ago
Sue HowieWonderful photos & video Robyn. You certainly needed those ☕️ coffee's & I hope you tried the sauna!
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3 months ago
Robyn RichardsTo Sue HowieThanks, Sue! We were probably too hot and bothered last night...but have two more nights here...
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3 months ago
Sue HowieTo Robyn RichardsHope you enjoy your rest days there as it looks a beautiful place & am sure there is some great coffee to be had along with some delicious cake 🎂
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3 months ago
Michael HutchingWell done Robyn & Bruce - we had a great ride over the R pass to Nauders in 2016. Beautiful scenery then to lake Bolzano, Trento and lake Garda. Lovely downhill ride through apple orchards.
Cheers Michael
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3 months ago
Robyn RichardsTo Michael HutchingYes, we're following your route to Garda and then to Verona. It's glorious!
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3 months ago