August 15, 2024
To Lake Garda
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We never got to the bottom of why we couldn't check into our B&B accommodation on time. We were sent away because the room wasn't ready 'because of the girl'. Never mind. We found a place to sit outside around the corner that delivered the best-ever iced coffee.
On our return, the owner, Luca, could not have been more solicitious and our top-floor room was magnificent. While we were unpacking, Luca single-handedly carried our bikes down to the cellar kitchen/breakfast room.
And there they were this morning, scruffily leaning against a white-washed wall in the immaculate eating area. Again, while we were packing up, he ferried the bikes back to ground level, refusing our offers of help. Given the gymnastics that we CycleBlazers often have to go through to park our bikes for the night (tiny lifts, narrow stairs, tight corners . . .) this was top-notch service.
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Our ride begins as it has for the past three days. Raised cycle path next to the Adige - check. Grapes and apples - check. Those mountains on either side - check. Same old, same old, but easy downhill riding.
Today's pressing concern is what will be open on this public holiday, the Feast of the Assumption? Shallow, I know, but cycle touring encourages such narrowmindedness, I feel.
We're in luck though. Not all of Italy is in church this morning because we spy a modern café with a bunch of bikes outside in Rovereto, nearing the end of our journey along the Adige. It's an excellent stop, worthy of cake.
Only a few km down the valley, we take a turn to the right in the direction of Lake Garda. This change in direction eventually brings about a change in scenery as well as elevation.
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There's a final climb to overcome but as we pedal slowly around the last corner, there's a breath-taking view of Lake Garda. There's also a steep downhill on the road, competing for space with Italian drivers, until we reach lake level.
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With still around 20km to ride to our hotel, we encounter a mix of shoulderless, busy road and a shared path along the lake. The former has to be tackled at speed; the latter is slow going.
It's certainly not a good plan to forget to charge your rear light/radar unit the night before tackling this ride (that's a note-to-self). We ride through half a dozen tunnels with no rear illumination...but I'm writing this so all is well.
Towards the end, the road develops some shoulder so we're able to more safely speed along until Hotel Drago turns up. That's enough excitement for one day. This hotel has a pool; something to look forward to.
Today's ride: 64 km (40 miles)
Total: 1,137 km (706 miles)
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