To Imst, Austria

August 15, 2024

Over the Fernpass

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There's no Plan B for today's ride. This is one that we have talked about, watched YouTubes clips of and generally mythologised for months, ever since deciding to ride the Claudia Augusta route through the Alps. Today, we have to cross Fernpass on the first of two days of climbing.

It's an early departure, despite breakfast not being available until 8am. Our accommodation was a down-at-heels pension in Hohenschwangau, which is around 5km outside of trendy (= Too Many People) Füssen . It's also in the shadow of the fairytale castle, Neuschwanstein. As we bike away from the pension, we see the tourist buses lined up to take passengers up the hill to the castle. It's only 8.30 and already there are hundreds milling arond the ticket booth line. Time to go.

Our route actually sends us up the castle hill road though we turn left pretty soon and leave the madness behind. Two short, stiff climbs take us out of the Bavarian foothills and into the Austrian Alps. From this point, we follow a pattern for the morning of climbing then dropping into the next valley, again loosely following our old friend the Lech river.

We pass by or through a bunch of castles this morning, including this one: the gothic Burgruine Ehrenburg, built around 1290.

Reutte turns up next, a reasonable size town and our first Austrian coffee stop. We know the serious climbing is about to begin so make the most of this respite.

The rain has caught up with us here too, so it's jackets on for a while. The wet weather isn't too much of a threat though so they stay off for most of the day. From Reutte, we diverge from the Lech's path and take gravel roads upwards. I'm having to hike-a-bike more than I'd like to, which is a challenge on a rolling surface. Enough of the moaning, though; we're making progress, and our reward is all around us - skyward to the alps and down to the valleys and villages below. It is a stunning ride!

The sign notes that the track leading up to a pylon is on the direct route of the ancient Roman road. This also marks our highest point today, the (actual) Fernpass summit.

Looking down from the summit, we can make out (but the pic doesn't clearly show) a massive traffic jam on the highway, from the bottom of the series of S bends to the Fernpass at the very top. Why would you?

The Fernpass highway is a busy and shoulderless one. It's certainly not a route for cyclists. The off-road gravel track carves a completely different path to the highway, at times within earshot, at other times meandering behind lakes or following the more direct Roman road. There are actually two Fernpasses, a local cyclist tells us while I'm gasping for breath at today's highest point- the steep bike route that follows the Claudia Augusta and the less elevated Fernpass Strasse. Well, we've crossed it twice then.

There's a picnic table at the point our route intersects with the road - at the top of THEIR Fern Pass. It's a great lunch spot, especially if you like watching fossil-fuelled vehicles idle in the traffic queues from your smug carbon-free vantage point.

Our 'summit pic', actually taken at the road summit.

This section featured in many YouTube clips of the descent; it's not as long as it looks

The descent from the Pass is not as wild as you'd imagine. It's on gravel and I'm a slow and unconfident descender. However, my brakes still work and the tyres we put on my bike before leaving home did their job well. I think 'majestic' would best describe my downhill progress. The drop-off from the ACTUAL Fernpass is particularly steep, with walking sometimes recommended. It's a lovely long afternoon descent down the Inn valley to Imst though, made even more enjoyable by the satisfaction we both feel in having knocked off the Fernpass - twice!

Today's ride: 70 km (43 miles)
Total: 822 km (510 miles)

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Tricia GrahamThat was the day I was waiting for congratulations. We got a shuttle for the last 8 km to Schloss Bernstein. The rest of the passes you plan although an effort are really no problem
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3 months ago

Jill BrinsleyWow!!! Kudos to you both. It may be very hilly but the rewards are great!!! I’d like to see a bicycle version (in a field) of you singing ‘ the hills are alive…’ please.
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3 months ago

Robyn RichardsTo Jill BrinsleyThis will never happen.
But I must admit that a young Julie Andrews has been in my mind too. . .
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3 months ago

Robyn RichardsTo Tricia GrahamThank you, Tricia! I'm very pleased to have done it but definitely never again̈.
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3 months ago

Carolyn van HoeveAmazing! What an achievement! Something to celebrate. It’s days like this you always remember.
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3 months ago

Robyn RichardsTo Carolyn van HoeveThanks, Carolyn. Had a successful climbing day today too. But haven't yet found the energy to write the journal!!
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3 months ago

Jennie EastonI identify with your down hill sentiments! You are very brave Robyn.
Loved the pics and video (where downhill slope is evident 🤪).
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3 months ago

Sue HowieI think you need a medal Robyn for getting through this day!
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3 months ago

Toni LinkI’m impressed! It’s great being an armchair cyclist with you. I’m not a fan of steep climbs, so I can just sit back and enjoy the gorgeous scenery pictures! I think I’d be good hiking the route without having to push my bike at the same time!
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3 months ago

Robyn RichardsTo Toni LinkNor am I a fan of steep climbs! But am no longer scared of them.
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3 months ago