August 7, 2024
To Hohenschwangau
Via Füssen
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It was a lovely evening in Landsberg we discovered, once we'd dragged ourselves away from the free coffee and lollies in the hotel lounge. A short stroll away, we found a cafe that could seat us outside, providing a ringside seat for people-watching on a warm evening in Landsberg.
This morning, it's back to business. We're approaching the sharp end of the tour: climbing in the Alps. We're away from Landsberg am Lech early enough, given that we have until 5pm to wait for tonight's check-in.
We head directly south from Landsberg on another fine morning, keeping the River Lech company, more or less. Just like yesterday, the familiar rural landscape keeps rolling by. There's maize, of course, and the onion spires in the distance announcing yet another village or town. But even further away on the horizon, we can see a faint outline of a range of mountains. The Alps are on their way.
Soon enough we stop to read an information board about the Claudia Augusta route - "the oldest Roman road in the Bavarian alpine foothills". (Later on, as we approach the Lechsee, we're actually cycling on a path alongside a road named the Via Claudia.)
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We're taking a few breaks to ensure there won't be too much waiting around at our destination. One of these is in Schongau where the bakery's owner isn't able to slip smoothly into English when she recognises a foreigner. Her English is probaby as competent as my German but I do my best - and we end up with two coffees and takeaway lunch supplies. So far, so good.
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But there was a rain warning on the YR app for today, specifically around the middle of the day. We're up in alpine meadows by late morning, having left that endless maize behind, finally. Black clouds are rolling in from the south and it's only a matter of time before the front hits us. Bruce spots a large barn where we can shelter in its lee while putting on rain jackets. Thunder, strong winds and heavy rain all play their part in the spectacle unfolding overhead, and all we can do is watch nature take its course.
Once the wind and thunder have done their worst, we head off in the heavy rain, desperate to find some shelter. . . any shelter . . . to have lunch.
As tempting as it is, we reluctantly decide a small covered shrine is not a good idea. Unbelievably though, just around the corner, I see a little wooden caravan with a 'geöffnet' banner dancing in the wind. Better still, the sign on the door invites us to "come in and enjoy all the good stuff . . . signed Hanni the farmer and ice cream maker". So we do. There's a coffee machine, cold drinks and ice creams, all clearly priced and relying on an honesty box system of payment . We make our usual teas and eat the bakery food in warmth and comfort. There may even have been a wee sitting-up siesta. Then we pack up just as the rain abates, and carry on with the adventure. Thank you, Hanni the unseen farmer. You saved our day.
The weather improves as we make our way back to the Lech river at Dessau. The final stretch is an easy ride alongside the river into the fairytale town of Füssen, well-known for its Disney inspiration, the castle of Neuschwanstein built by King Ludwig of Bavaria and finished in 1884. Why he's known as the 'mad king' of Bavaria escapes me but he surely must have been somewhat delusionary. He slept a total of 11 nights in his great folly before being deposed in 1886 (and found dead the following day, along with his unfortunate doctor.)
Fussën is a tourist mecca (that's code for Too Many People). The town centre is a pedestrian zone so the three of us are forced to push our laden bikes through the mid-afternoon crowds in search of a restaurant. But wait, how many of us?
Along the ride into Füssen, we struck up a conversation with a chap from Hamburg who is also cycle touring. He plans to camp somewhere further south tonight but we have a great chat on the bikes and continue our acquaintance over a late lunch in Füssen.
Hannes tells us he was recently set the task of speaking to a stranger at least once a day on his travels, a great idea. We are today's project. However once we've shared photos of our labradoodles, Scout and Tammi, we realise there's possibly a real connection. Addresses and emails exchanged, Hannes heads off up the alpine path while we make our way to Hohenschwangau, where Ludwig's castle hangs over us.
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3 months ago
3 months ago
Today's ride: 78 km (48 miles)
Total: 752 km (467 miles)
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3 months ago
3 months ago