August 2, 2024
To Esslingen
A day of small kindnesses
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Our elegant hotel owner happily checked us in yesterday at noon, some two hours before our allotted time and not long before the thunder and lightning show began - while in the midst of a fully booked lunch service - and then took us around the corner to unlock the bike garage.
This morning at breakfast, she presented us with a plastic bag each and suggested we might like to make up a sandwich for lunch. Might we?? Yes, please! And as soon as we came downstairs with our bags, Madame clambered down from her window-cleaning mission (most likely still in heels) to open the garage for us. I don't know who else contributes to the running of the Hotel Rossle but she is an indefatigable customer-focussed whirlwind. And kind.
But wait. Before we leave Calw, there's time to show you a few pix. The town's claim to fame is as the birthplace of Hermann Hesse. Right where I took the above photo of Madame is a fountain in his name. Walk a few metres over the nearby bridge and you'll find a life-sized statue of the well-known intellectual.
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4 months ago
4 months ago
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There's a consequence to our long and joyful descent into Calw yesterday. Our only way out today is up. We farewell Hesse, cross the bridge, turn right and immediately head uphill. It's a different route to yesterday's but they have altitude in common.
Some six and a half km and 250 metres later, we reach today's highest point. There will be other climbs but the biggie is done. From here, the ride is just delightful. We may be leaving the Black Forest region but there is plenty more forested terrain and open farmland to ride through as we head east. Another descent brings us to our coffee stop, a backerie in Aidlingen.
Riding through the next town - they're coming thick and fast now - Bruce stops at a bike shop when he sees the chance for some air in our tyres. Alex, the owner, is finishing up pumping the tyres of a woman in a wheelchair. He's happy to do ours. No problem.
Alex , like many young Germans, has travelled in New Zealand and, of course, has excellent English. We admire the e-cargo bike outside the store. He plans to take it camping next week with a friend. We go inside, as you do, and discover that his whole stock is made up of e-cargo bikes.
Meanwhile, my bike has toppled. The kickstand I fitted back home is severely underpowered for the bike in fully-laden touring mode. Alex goes out the back, quickly emerges with a grunty kickstand and offers to fit it. No problem. People here like to upgrade to a double stand so he has plenty of these. No problem. He then checks the rear wheel spoke tensions. Mine fails. No problem, it's a two-minute job.
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3 months ago
We're leaving the wilderness behind now on our eastward journey and cycling through more built-up areas. We're soon thinking of lunch but can't find a place to stop and sit. And we're back in forest again, for what turns out to be the last time. Finally, a seat hoves into view. Quite a large one, as it happens. So we set up the tea-making facility and enjoy Madame's breakfast sandwiches. We also take the chance to film a video for our very precious two year old grand-daughter, hoping she will still recognise us. Hi, Isabella!
I've been sort of ignoring a problem with my front brake, which annoyingly developed shortly after leaving Alex's bike shop. It feels as though the brake is grabbing, causing a whining sound and a vibration through the handlebars. It seems slightly unfair to be handicapped in this way when riding with Tour Leader -I need all the help I can get to stay with him.
We're riding through a series of urban areas now that we are closing in on Stuttgart. I pull Bruce over to suggest we look for another bike shop. To our left is another bike shop! This turns out to be such a quick visit that we don't have time for names or selfies, and it is a busy shop, but Mr Bike Shop Guy comes out to the pavement, diagnoses the problem and fixes it within 30 seconds, waving off our offers of payment as he dashes back indoors.
With such positive, feel-good vibes, how could we not enjoy the rest of today's ride? What could possibly eclipse today's ride so far?
We head downhill for the final time, turning a corner . . . only to see a stunning panorama before us. We're high above Esslington, with views of the Neckar Valley to the west and the city down below. Photography never does justice to these spectacular views, but I stop anyway, frightening a couple of drivers, to cross the road to a lookout point.
It's all anti-climax from that point. We've found our accommodation and had dinner. I'm now sitting in the hotel's corridor, where the wifi is, completing the journal. by now, people who know me will also know why we're here and what we'll be doing tomorrow morning.
Until then . . .
Today's ride: 57 km (35 miles)
Total: 410 km (255 miles)
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4 months ago
4 months ago