Preamble

July 19, 2024

Lest anyone be concerned about the ridiculous idea of me, in particular, choosing to ride over alpine passes, the route we're following this year is a reasonably gentle crossing, possibly even the "easiest way to cross the Alps by bike" - as one website optimistically claims. There may also be train rides involved. Now, that sounds more like my kind of alpine adventure.

We fly into Zurich, our favourite European airport, in a few days' time and then cycle from the airport to Winterthur for the first night. As the map below shows, we plan to make our way through Germany's Black Forest and eventually to Donauwörth at the confluence of the Danube and Wörnitz rivers to join the Via Claudia Augusta.

This route caught my eye not long after we had come home from Europe last summer (and had immediately bought flights for this year, despite agreeing we'd stay put in 2024. Oops). After a month of cycling through Alsace, along some of the Rhine and in the dead-flat parts of the Netherlands last summer (as seen in this journal's header photo), we were up for something hillier this time.

From Donauwörth we follow in ancient Roman footsteps south to Verona. The Claudia Augusta was completed in around 46AD, providing the empire with an important military and trading route and has reinvented itself in recent times as a cycling and hiking trail over the Alps. There's no doubt I'll be challenged by the (often single-track) Fernpass (1216 metres) and, further along, the Reschenpass (1455 metres) but the rewards will include cycling alongside Lake Garda and a three-night stay in Verona. It will also be our first time in Italy after 40 years. (Back then, we drove an ancient Kombi van over the Brenner Pass and were intimidated by Italian drivers. We'll be much happier on a bike.)

Not quite Italy, but we're on our way in 1984 [Brig, Switzerland]

The return leg will start from Lake Como. We don't have enough cycling days available to bike from Verona; instead, we'll take a train from Verona through Milan to somewhere just short of the Swiss border. From Como, the route back to Zurich will present us with two options: (1) Cycle over the St Gotthard Pass or (2) cycle to a railway station and be whisked through a tunnel to the other side of the Pass. I've already chosen. I have, however, offered to take Tour Leader's panniers on board with me to lighten his load.

Once out of the Alps, the plotted route takes us back to Zurich via Lucerne, with perhaps one or two little adventures en route.

Unusually, we've booked accommodation all the way. Risky in terms of change of plans, I know, but we wanted to avoid being caught short in remote locations. It's a pricey part of the world.

I hope you'll join us for the ride.

...and a short ride to make sure nothing flaps, rubs or jiggles. On the bikes, that is.

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Tricia GrahamThat is a wonderful route Robyn - we did it a few years ago. Just one hint of caution the route aver the Fern pass is near impossible - road narrow and very busy and the bike track all but impassible. there is an option there is a shuttle bus that will take you your bikes and luggage over the last very difficult part. we did that along with other cyclists. Met one person who had cycled it and he said never again. Maybe it has improved in the meantime. The Reisenpass is fine
have a great time
Tricia
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4 months ago

Tricia GrahamAbout the Fernpass it is in my journal Hunting down Ancient Tractors between Düsseldorf and Warsaw. As I said Reissenpass (sp) absolutely fine. We have also done the St Gottard pass from the Andermatt side - walked a lot but loved it particularly the cobbled part on the Italia side
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4 months ago

Robyn RichardsYes Tricia, I've looked at YouTube clips and read about the Fern Pass. We are definitely looking at the bike track, not the road. Bruce will be absolutely fine. He's riding his mountain bike and loves that sort of thing. I just think I will have to walk a lot. Or the shuttle ...Thanks for your journal link. I'll read it now.
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4 months ago