August 17, 2024 to August 18, 2024
In Verona
It's not at all about the bike
It wouldn't be a proper European tour unless we had a parkrun drama involving trains. I think back to six or seven years ago when my dream of running in the iconic Bois de Boulogne, Paris, was shattered by a metro train cancellation. The bus replacement did a fine job of getting us to the Bois, but about ten minutes later - and five minutes before start time. This left me disconsolantly wandering the many paths in the Bois looking for evidence of that very un-French thing, an organised running event. It's taken me years to get over this missed opportunity. Hmm, maybe I'm not there yet.
Last year, a cancellation in Basel gave us three days to organise travel to another parkrun event further up the Rhine. A misunderstanding over the need for bike reservations on the outward journey was trumped by the return journey's overcrowded carriage, meaning I spent most of it in the large toilet with Bruce's bike. But at least we made the parkrun in time.
That was in doubt this morning. Owing to some bad advice from the Verona station ticketing office, we board the 6.40am train to Padua with an invalid ticket. It's certainly not crowded onboard. In fact, we can observe our very efficient conductor at work. She knows about the fare-dodgers going upstairs, trying to stay ahead of her, and very firmly ejects four young men at the next station. When she comes to us, she's pitiless. Bad advice is irrelevant. Being hapless tourists facing a language barrier is irrelevant. Luckily, we get off with a reprimand and 10 Euro fine for not checking in beforehand. Phew!
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But wait, there's more drama. The distance between Verona (which translates as 'no parkrun') and Padua/Padova ('yes, a parkrun!') could be covered by an Intercity train in 20 minutes, Bruce reckons. Instead, months ago, we bought these tickets for the two-hour regional train. Plenty can happen in two hours. At one of the many country stations, the train waits too long. I see two police officers standing outside. The conductor is consulting her tablet. The fully armed police come into our carriage and approach a man about four seats behind. A long discussion ensues. The target believes in his innocence and brandishes his phone at the police. All four of them move right into OUR personal space and harangue each other for another 10 minutes. I even add my bit, being desperate to get to Padua on time. We're on a tight timetable but no one listens to me. The urge to take a photo is nearly unbearable.
Ten minutes behind schedule, we pull into Padua station, with exactly 11 minutes left to ride to Farfalle parkrun. At 8.59, we arrive during the run briefing. There's applause when we identify as New Zealanders. If only they knew!
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3 months ago
Today, Sunday, we have no pressing engagements or early trains. Nor any need to take the bikes out of the apartment. Mid-morning, we walk into Piazza Bra, where we watch big pieces of the set for tonight's opera at the 2,000 year old Roman Arena being lifted from just in front of us to over the ancient stone walls to the stage. The temperature has dropped a few degrees after a short but heavy rainfall so it's very pleasant conditions for walking, unlike the past couple of days. And there's so much to see.
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Fascinating to watch, but we keep going though, to Castelveccio, the 14th century castle that's now a museum of antiquities. Disappointingly, it doesn't do coffee but it does contain a vast collection of frescoes and ancient stonework, as well as a great view from the ramparts. It's the building itself, we agree, that's the most interesting aspect for us. And we find coffee in a good people-watching spot not too far away.
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Of course I know what opera will be performed tonight. We bought tickets months ago for Verdi's Aida and will be returning to the Arena after dark (after our bedtime, in fact) to take part in the great spectacle of love and betrayal.
Today's ride: 10 km (6 miles)
Total: 1,208 km (750 miles)
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3 months ago
And no one can do a parkrun in France any more, until they relent on some regulation about medical certificates. So I may never get to do the Bois de Boulogne event.
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