July 30, 2024 to July 31, 2024
An undulating Freudenstadt loop
. . . blissfully pannier-free
Yesterday, Day 1 of our stay here, turned out to be bike-free though I managed to catch an afternoon train from the outskirts of the city to the central market square for a spot of walking tourism, despite temperatures rising to above 30 degrees (Celsius) by lunchtime.
Monday's metric milestones (riding 100km, climbing over 1,000 metres in the heat) had knocked the stuffing out of us, a reminder that we're not as young as we'd hoped.
But today is another day. I open the weather app first thing this morning to see predictions of 30 degrees, followed by an afternoon of rain. Bruce has plotted a route from Freudenstadt to uh ... coffee, of course! - in Baiersbronn and then a continuation of the loop back to home. At 20-plus km, the route should cover some of the territory we have planned for tomorrow, when we move north to Calw. So today's ride is partly to check out whether I can manage the off-road, gravel sections of tomorrow's route (on my hybrid bike; Tour Leader is on a cross-country bike and will be in his element.) If they turn out to be like the goat tracks we found on Monday, a new route will be plotted.
We're on the bikes shortly after 8am. It's lovely riding in the cool of the morning. In no time, the route takes us up a steep hill (initially paved) and we continue to climb on a wide gravel track (no problem) - past a well set-up and busy Scout camp - before a delightful downhill cruise to Klosterreichenbach. Some discussion ensues here on whether to drop further down into the town in pursuit of coffee - or to maintain altitude and continue on to Baiersbonn. Altitude conservation wins and we soon find ourselves seated at the Cafe am Eck waiting for our order. (We're never sure what to do in European cafes, given we're used to antipodean informality and counter service. Here, while hovering in front of the counter, eyeing up the cakes, we're told to "Go sit down. Sit!". We do. We wait. We order. And it's worth it.
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| Heart | 3 | Comment | 0 | Link |
The return leg is problematic, at first. The cycle path has been barricaded and there are plenty of workers on-site to send us packing if we attempt a sneaky pass through. Navigator Bruce sorts out the only alternative route (given that it's a narrow valley and the busy road is out of the question. This route takes us high above the valley floor (again!) for some kilometers. We can see serious construction work on the cycle path down below and agree it will be quite something when completed. Meanwhile, we put a positive spin on the bonus climbing; it's great preparation for crossing the Alps next week.
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We follow the detour signage until it is safe to return to the valley floor for the final kms. But wait - one more detour remains and, as luck would have it, involves another steep climb out of the valley. This one is a push for us both - it's too steep and sustained to consider riding it. At the top, though, we find ourselves back in Friedenstadt. It's an easy ride to the supermarket and then a long and fast pedal-free descent to our street.
But wait - again! There's one more drama. I find myself yelling at Bruce while slowing to a safe stop with one eye closed. He tries to come alongside to find out what's wrong. We make an untidy puddle on the street and within seconds two German women rush over to join in. It's clear that I've been stung just above the eye by some terrified insect that found itself trapped inside two layers of lenses. German Frau 1 recommends cutting an onion to treat the sting, though above the eye, perhaps no? Meanwhile, Frau 2 crosses the road and returns with . . . an onion and a pen-knife! You couldn't make this up. She must carry them in her bag ready for a passing cycle tourist to be stung. Such kindness!
After assuring both women that I will start the onion treatment as soon as we're back in the apartment, Frau 2 rushes across the street to catch her bus while Frau 1 can't believe that we've cycled here all the way from New Zealand (well, you know what I mean). 'And without motors!' The sub-text was probably 'and so old' but I'm willing to ignore this in favour of starting the cepaceous treatment.
All's well that ends well. They have stinging flies here, so I suspect one of that ilk was the guilty party. The oniony smell should fade soon - and what remains of the onion will go well with tonight's bratwurst dinner.
Today's ride: 28 km (17 miles)
Total: 303 km (188 miles)
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