I am writing this just in to Switzerland, at the Rhein Spitz, where the Rhine enters the Bodensee.Thats quite a distance from Emden, Aurich, or Flensburg, both in space and in memory.In principle, I could jog memory by reading this blog, but right now I have no connection!

Its early morning, and I told Dodie I would go to the washroom to clear my mind. This of course raises the question of exactly which part of my mind I think I will clear at the washroom!

Anyway, the situation with northern Germany is pretty simple. Like in Friesland, Netherlands, cycling there seemed to involve a lot of following the inside of dikes, with not too much to look at. We found ourselves cutting in from the coast and heading cross country. This kind of went against the idea that we were cycling the North sea coast route. However whether by the dike or through farmland, the cycling was flat, safe, and pleasant. Now that we are down south, though, among the lusher flowers and denser bakeries, North Sea Coast does seem like the "tough" part of this easy European tour.

Compared to Netherlands, northern Germany had dramatically lesser artistic housing. It seemed all red brick walls and tile roofs. The roofs, though, were often shiny blue or black, and the houses were immaculately tidy and well maintained, just a sin Netherlands. As in all of Germany, with the special exception of abandoned places in the former GDR, there was no visible evidence of poverty. In fact, except for former schlosses and such like, there was no visible evidence of excessive wealth, either. By excessive, I mean vast Hollywood style mansions. However, large beautiful houses, beautifully maintained and landscaped, were everywhere - they were far more evident than in any North American place.

The people we encountered were friendly and helpful, without exception. No one was so much as even rude or dismissive, no one bugged us or intruded on our space, there were no unduly loud parties, no drunks. Most people who could speak a little English ied to use it to communicate with us. Those who had no English dealt with our two year olds German without frustration.

The north sea coast is a major tourist destination, but clearly just for German people. Our Rick Steves tourist map of Germany does not even show it! However, campground prices are no bargain here, and you can get charged for shower literally by the second. Probably,though, it is Denmark that holds the record for high campground charges.

As in all of Europe, smokers are a problem for us. If you stay outside to watch your bike, you will get axphyxsiated by chain smokers around you. By definition, those still sitting around have not died of cancer yet, and if they do so tomorrow, that will not help us today. We wish they would get on with it as soon as possible, though!

Northwest Germany pluses:

Well marked, safe cycle ways Clean and pleasant surroundings Shiny tile roofs Rathaus square in Hamburg Better bakery than Netherlands Friendly people Reasonable number of English speakers

Northwest Germany minuses

Smokers Relatively boring riding