August 7, 2013
Day 20: Fynshav to Korso
We came to Denmark from Germany, and Germany is a land of plenty. Plenty of large, solid houses, bakeries, electronics stores, etc. Now, we are slowly getting the impression that Denmark is more a land of if not scarcity then at least no waste. This could be all wrong, and maybe corrected when we see Copenhagen. But right now we are sitting at the ferry terminal, having just found out that there are only three daily ferry crossings from our current island of ALS to our intended next island of AERO. What's more, we just learned that the ferries off the other end of AERO to what was our next planned island do not run anymore. So that's a bit of scarcity to think about.
On the other hand, this morning our campground was so quiet, so clean, the air so clear, the sea so blue, that it maybe showed another aspect of the country. Obviously we are trying to absorb everything we see and feel here, and our final impression will not be there until we hop the ferry to Rostock (assuming it still runs!).
So now rather than wait for the ferry to Aero (flagged by Rick Steves as a backdoor to Europe jewel) we will hop to Fyn - the island that contains Odense. However, rather than now pass among the southern islands, we will plot a more direct route to Copenhagen. When we leave Copenhagen we will at least circle MONS, as so many other cyclists do, leaving AERO on a to do list for another time. (Dodie says my to do list requires a lifespan of 180 years).
We had some kind of maps for our planned route, though even they were fuzzy about island 5names. (The camping office had a tourist sticker that said ALS, and I had to ask what that was. It turned out to be the darn island I was on!) Now that we ąre sort of heading out cross country, we are even fuzzier about where in heaven we are and are going. In a way that adds to the fun, but as the reader you may be a bit in the dark about where we are. Perhaps you are in a better position to Google it than we are, though!
As we waited for the ferry to Fyn (which lands at Bojden, near Faborg) a whole pile of other cyclists arrived. Oops, it turned out to be just our lovely Swiss family, with the four kids. They too were heading for Bojden, and it was they who had found out that there now was no way forward off of AERO.
The ferry was a noble looking mid sized ship. Ouur "berth" on it was to be jammed beside a large truck carrying live pigs - an aromatic spot. Aside from live pigs, the ferry featured a small cafeteria. Here I got to try my first "danish". Analysis: It was extremely flaky, indicating a good amount of butter used, and it had good flavour. Overall - very nice!
Once off the ferry, we hopped on Hwy 8, which avoids the no doubt scenic coastline and heads straight across the island to Nyborg. Hwy 8 is wholly or in part a Danish national cycle route, and at very least bikes are permitted, as indicated bby various cycle markings and instructions along the way. However for 95% of the route you are riding a one foot shoulder, and the white line is corrugated. The traffic, light at first, also became quite heavy within 35 km of Nyborg. So for a supposed cycling nation, this was not particularly impressive. From the Grampies point of view, we have cycled plenty of thin white lines, but the extra concentration needed is just that much more tiring.Also, the road was not crazy hilly, just hilly. So overall it was a bit of a trial.
The scenery was gently rolling wheat fields, harvested mustard fields, and pasture. Gentle and pleasant. We also ran into two mystery (to us) large establishments. The first was a church and many other buildings and grounds called Brahetrolleborg . And the second was a large castle and grounds, called Egeskov. Anyone with cheaper internet than what we have here should check and see what these were all about.
Along the way, we stopped in at a grocery store. This was the third "LIDL class" store we have tried, and all have been the same: very sparse fruits and vegetables, little or no bakery, few choices in reheatable meals, few choices in refrigerated puddings, and strangely, few choices in cheese. About cheese: yesterday we bought some labelled Esrom, and it smelled and tasted like old socks, or worse. So today we tried one labelled something else, and it was the same. Do all Danish sliced cheeses smell like old socks??
One thing the store did have was the long "danish" you can see in the photo. Interestingly, year ago we lived near a "Danish" bakery in the suburb of Victoria called Colwood. That bakery had exactly this item. Also today, like in Colwood years ago, this pastry was the only thing worth buying in the place.
Nyborg gives a very good impression of a medeval town, particularly with its Schloss, which was built 1000 years ago and was once the seat of government in the region. At 6 p.m., the streets were almost totally deserted. Yet a man appeared on a bike, and noted that we were from Canada. I confirmed that, and in the shortest span of time I have ever seen for this, the fellow revealed dozens of facts about his life story and political opinions. Just a few of them: he had seen a pipe band in Calgary, and three years later took them up himself, becoming a bagpipe player. However prescription drugs had ruined his hearing, and he was now suing. The Danes disgraced themselves in WWII by capitulating. It was probably the Copenhagen people, since the Jutlanders are more brave and fierce. However his own father worked to save jews, something about which he is very proud. The murdered Jews were poor people, like his father, and completely innocent.
The man covered many other subjects (in rapid fire) and invited us home, but we were eager to find the train station. The thing is, the link from Nyborg to Korsor, on the island holding Copenhagen is a critical one. Wiithout it, the country is split in two. There is a giant bridge, but that is cars only. The only way by bike is to hop the train across. So we headed for the station, to scope it out. We had earlier checked the train company web site, since Sandra had suggested that for a bike reservation. However where on the site succh reservations were was not obvious, an our internet time is very limited.
Just at the station, another 1 inch curb jumped up and threw Dodie off her bike, just as one of its mates had done last year in Oxford. This time she was less injured - another bloody knee.
The train ticket sales and food sales were both handled by 7 Eleven. Yes 7-Eleven, just like back home, and I can report, just as low quality, food wise. We got three "tickets" but could not make out what they said, So we reported to the right track and waited for the train. The first one by was an express, and it came through so fast it almost blew the bikes over. So Denmark has some really fast trains.
Our train featured some steep steps. Another passenger gave us a boost, else it was almost impossible. Clearly, this critical national link is not bike friendly. By the same token, neither it is disability friendly nor baby buggy friendly!
The conductor held the train while we struggled, and directed us into a compartment, where there are fold up seats that make room for bikes. One fellow was sitting in one of these seats, and moved over to make room. He was fine with that. But a man in a nearby seat jumped in to say that we needed a bike reservation and without it we would have to get off the train at the next stop. No problem, we said, we were only on for one stop. So he changed tactic and denounced us for disturbing everyone for just a one stop trip. I pointed out that this link was the only way across the bridge. Dodie jumped in and blasted the guy for making visitors unwelcome in his country. The first fellow, the one who had actually had to move, pointed out that the guy was not from here, but was Swedish. Go figure.
Once across the water, the conductor helped us carry the bikes down the stairs and wished us a good journey. It was a simple matter to find the camping near the station and the bridge. 190 and something Kroner later, we were set up in our traditional location between two trailers.
So we are now poised to head to Copenhagen. It should take us two days. It will be interesting to compare that city to what we have seen in the bit of the country we have traversed.
Today's ride: 66 km (41 miles)
Total: 1,388 km (862 miles)
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