August 4, 2013
Day 17: Lagerdorf to Westerronfeld (Rendsburg): Too many circles
We woke up in our lovely garden corner, with the little deck, table and chair, power etc. and tiptoed into the house to use the toilet. The dogs gave a little woof, but looked embarrassed when we reminded them that we had already been introduced.
We noted again how large and solid the house is, and how high quality the inside fittings are. Yet the house is just normal for the town and the family is a normal one. So the Europeans seem to be in good shape, with good food, housing, and infrastructure. We thought also again of the open, welcoming attitude of Nikko and family, and of the people generally, and we are happy for them.
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We headed over to Nikko's bakery, and go breakfast (withh two coffees and a hot chocolate) plus a spare chocolate croissant, for 10 euros. As we sat outside with our food, the people of the village filtered in - half by car and half by bike. We were sitting outside by the door, and literally each person wished us good morning. The front page story in the local tabloid features the recent hot and sunny weather. So all seems well with the world.
As for us, if we have chocolate croissants all is well too.
So we left Lagerdorf and continued on the Oschenweg. This route is well known here, and pops up in business names and various graphics. It was news to us, until wandering into the map room at Globetrotter. But here, there are even signs about the bike route in the street.
The Oschenweg of course is not the only bikeway in this area. Just look at the signpost. There is even a monk's way, indicating a pilgrimidge route. Whatever these routes, they vary from smooth ashfalt paths to gravel to today's least favourite, two rather broken lines of concrete. Signage placement is also rather variable, with just enough of them being missing or misleading.
For example, at Hohenlockstedt we passed the town sign, and soon noted a maybe 95 year old moving along with a walker, slowly, slowly. We carried on, and at one point the path was overgrown by overhanging trees. Dodie spent some time clearing the way. After a km, the thing ended in a dead end. We backtracked, and found a post of missing signs, took a guess, and went another way. After fully an hour, we arrived at, yes, the Hohenlockstedt sign. And here was the old lady, still trudging along. I remarked that even the old lady was ahead of us, but Dodie retorted that she was now behind again. Yes, said I, but if we are circling again, then she still is in the lead.
Actually we got fed up with this, and jumped on the main road - the B77 - instead of the curvy way of the Oxes.
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Progress was fast and simple on the B77 (actually, the bike path beside it). One thing we saw was a VW van for sale. Since we have used VW vans for about 40 years, I am always interested in them. But not this one - mileage too high and price way out of whack for that mileage.
We kept scanning our maps and materials, looking for a camping, but again, they are very scarce in this region. So when we came to a hotel just this side of the Oostnordsee Canal from Rendsburg, we decided to ask the price. The Bikeline book suggested it could be 70 euros each. At that price, I will sleep under my bike, thank you. But the number quoted was 90 euros for both. Still not cheap, but we took it.
The lady we dealt with was great too. Sure, just wheel those bikes into the lobby - they can go in a locked garage later. Sure, dry out your tent parts anywhere.
The room was a revelation and an oasis. So clean and large. And the washroom, even larger and cleaner.
At the attached restaurant, tables were scarce because of a private function. But a seated local couple invited us to join them. They were 73 and 83, and said they had done several cycle tours in the past, in Poland and in Netherlands. Now too old for that, they say they only cycle around the village - no more than 2 hours at a time! Asked about why not get an e-bike, the 83 year old fellow scofffed - they are only for old people!
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2
Today's ride: 69 km (43 miles)
Total: 1,093 km (679 miles)
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