September 21, 2015
Day 4 - Trento to Peschiera del Garda: Grapes
Today started with another good breakfast. Based on previous trips to Italy and the ubiquitous cake for breakfast, I have equipped myself with a bowl, spoon and museli to supplement or replace the typical offerings. I guess because of germanic influences in this area, breakfasts so far have included bread, meat, cheese, yoghurt and fruit in addition to cake, and it's been great. As I head further south and east, I'm guessing this state of affairs will not continue.
Today was lovely. I got away around 8.30am and turned left at the river. Correct direction. I had lovingly downloaded maps from bikemap.net (uploaded in detail by a Czech person with the user name 'bondo' - how cool is the internet) for the bike paths from Trento to Riva del Garda. But I need not have bothered. On the whole things were very well signposted, except when going through small towns of course! Also the path was crawling with bike tour groups and Germans, all of whom had detailed maps.
It was a lovely trip - lovely is the word I'm afraid that keeps coming to mind. The route was more varied today. Still mostly about apples, grapes and sewage treatment: but it also passed through small towns (some old and very attractive); was at the level of the orchards and vineyards rather than on raised embankments; went in and out of wooded areas where I could hear, but not see birdies; passed the back of small factories; and had some short, sharp hills which very quickly yielded awesome views.
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The day was also a bit overcast, which meant I didn't get burnt as I usually do in spite of all the layers of sp50+ I wear. Every now and then I had little conversations with German speakers (80% of the touring cyclists) which was mostly entertaining and added to my enjoyment of the day.
At one point, shortly after turning west away from the river Adige which I had been following since yesterday, the path was along a small road for agricultural vehicles - often Piaggio Ape in fact! In this area, the grapes were being havested. I stopped near one small group of elderly pickers and asked if I could take a photo. They got totally into it. One of the two ladies started directing the shoot: which bunches to photograph, which pickers and in what groups etc. Noone was allowed to be forgotten! Finally, I left with huge bunch of grapes in my hand which I ate whilst I cycled along. Picking off the grapes with my teeth. It was certainly a look.
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In fact, I kept stopping to take photos throughout the ride. It was one of those days. There was lots I wanted to remember...
At about 1pm I was hooning down the hill to Lake Garda, then picking my way around the pedestrians along the foreshore path to get to the ferry at Riva del Garda.
Apart from the shops, cafes, gerlateria, and people with dogs, there is also the Ponale Hydroelectric Powerplant. Right there next to the ferry stop! Built in 1929, it is a pretty cool building. There are open days, only not today unfortunately. Anyway, I had to catch a ferry for 5 hours to the south of the lake. It's a big lake.
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A story from last night related to the licorice gelato. As I was waiting to order, a young, slim, stylishly dressed Italian man in front of me was conversing with his girlfriend/wife outside the shop. "What flavour do you want? No, you must have a gelato! You don't want a gelato??? But they are so good! You shouldn't miss out! What about a small one? This gelato is the best! Lemon, it's very light, it's only lemon!! The lemon here is so good! Fruit, it's good for you....". All the while she is dealing with the baby in the pram, saying no, saying how full she is, how she just had a coffee and is happy with that. But the reason I found it totally hilarious, was that the man was chanelling the Aldo character from Spy - too, too, too much a caricature, but in this case actually real. With all the bouncing about in and out of the door to the shop, tilting his head and reaching out both arms in entreaty, then weight on his back foot with two hands over his heart, miming 'very small' emphatically... I don't know, maybe you had to be there. But I found it funny!
When did Lush take over the world? I passed one in Milan, one in Bolzano, one in Trento... The smell from the door of the shop is the same, as are the names of the products. Butter Bomb anyone?
Back to the ferry trip... I'm glad I took it. As we travelled south, the sun came out further, and the towns changed 'flavour' with the landscape which was in general becoming flatter, and depending on their size and age. Lots of people hanging out on balconies, utilising sun lounges in hotel gardens, and sipping coffees and drinks in bars on the waterfront. Many boats of different types - especially sailing boats - kayaks and paragliders. All rather attractive really. Just like television out the window from my seat. From this perspective at least, Lazise was a town that looked appealing and worth a better look one day maybe. The height of summer must be pretty feral. Busy enough for me in late-September.
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I spent the trip alternately writing, reading about someone else's tour (Andrew P Sykes, Along the Med on a Bike called Reggie) and dreaming about longer tour itineraries when the PhD is done, and listening to a compilation of Della Reese singles 'The Jubilee Years' twice through because it's just that good.
Macoroncini with prawns and porchini mushrooms, plus a salad for dinner. Yum.
Today's ride: 56 km (35 miles)
Total: 135 km (84 miles)
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