September 19, 2015
Day 2 - Milan to Bolzano: Today I took a train
The Italian system of only annoucing the platform for the train as it arrives creates a panicked, running, herd of people, all terrified that they will be unable to find their carriage and seat before the train departs. Very, very ugly, particularly if you have a bike that needs folding before getting on the train and three bike bags. The stressed old ladies were the worst. Muttering, crowding and prodding with elbows doesn't actually make it faster ladies!! Also, unlike in Germany for example, there is no indication of where on the platform your carriage is likely to be. Anyway, made it on in time and also the connection in Verona was without incident.
The temperature here is fairly similar to home, but I realised I was really in a different hemisphere here on the train today when I passed grape vines; green leaves and laden with fruit. Last weekend, Malcolm and I paused our cycle at a winery near Windsor for lunch, and the naked, stumpy vines were being pruned in readiness for the spring.
Passing up the valley towards Bolzano, which I will do in the opposite direction tomorrow by bike, there are vines on both sides of the train. Sometimes orchards of apple trees. Then there are rocky hills, also on both sides, steep like cliffs. I have already passed many churches and enclosed monastery-looking places perched up on the hills. They must have amazing views and feel very isolated and safe.
Speaking of regious houses, my 'hotel' (Kolpinghaus) obviously doubles as a Catholic house of religious instruction in the off-season. I felt like I was in a dorm room at a very German-style university, in which was thoughtfully left a bible and wall-mounted crucifix.
Bolzano itself is a nice little town. The core is car free which makes walking around the narrow roads in the oldish part quite pleasant. It is also very touristy. The market, about which I was pretty excited, consisted of one cheese vendor, one fruit and veg shop, a bread cart and then a dozen or so stalls all selling the same combination of dried fruit, lollies, salt/herb/spice mixes, and big bags of dried mushrooms. Disappointing. A market for tourists not locals. The town streets are full of clothes shops, bars, cafes, gelato bars, more clothes shops and many brands of outdoor/alpine equippers.
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The highlight of the afternoon was seeing Oetzi - the mummified copper age man - who was found locally in 1991 when some abnormal weather caused some ice to melt, revealing his upper body to some rather stunned German hikers. There is now an archeological museum over three levels in his honor, which includes his clothes, tools, bags (all found nearby and also preserved) as well as his actual remains in a climate controlled box with a window in the side for viewing. There has been a tonne of sophisticated research done on this 5,300 year old man. His eyes were blue (dna tests), he was lactose intolerant (like an estimated 40% of the European population at the time) and the food he ate 1 hour before he died was still in his stomach and could be identified!!! The gift shop was a total washout. All the images on mugs, pens, bags and fridge magnets were of a 'what he may have looked like alive bearded gentleman', not the mummy itself. All in good taste but dull. I was hoping for a keyring!!
The late afternoon comprised a beer at a local brewery (Bavarian style wheat beer) and a ride up to Rennon in a cable car where I spent some time in a cafe writing this journal and watching the hikers and mountain bikers pass by.
On the way up, I could hear the bells on the cows at the little farms underneath the cabin, and by the time I went down the sun was off the hills in the valleys and the cows were heading into the stone barns for milking. They must spend all winter in those barns...
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Dinner of an average pizza and salad in a restaurant where I was joined by a dozen 13 year old girls celebrating a birthday party. Eeck.
Today's ride: 4 km (2 miles)
Total: 7 km (4 miles)
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