There was a fork in the road

October 2, 2024

Saracena to Sant’ Agata Di Asaro

We were up early after our bubble experience keen to attack today’s hilly stage before it got too warm. After the traditional pastry and cappuccino, a quick supermarket visit and a double check of the route we were off and running. My map reading mojo was at all time high and I was keen to show Rob my new found skill. After a short climb out of town it was a free flowing downhill run to the valley floor followed by the climb of the day. That went for 16 kilometres and rose almost 700 metres but was a comfortable 5% most of the way. With 2 mountain villages on route we could stop for a coffee and a breather before ploughing on.

We bought provisions at Acquaformosa, a small village at the summit of the climb.

It was here that we met another cyclist doing the same route as us. Enzo was an Italian guy about our age who had some trouble communicating with the townsfolk. The villagers were of Greek and Albanian descent and they spoke a different dialect. We had the same problem as Enzo.

Rob not wanting to wear out his tyres on his new bike

Enzo on the left and some random guy that I suspect was this villages Luciano

After a breathe-taking descent of multiple switchbacks we found a perfect lunch spot in a grove of trees and demolished some prosciutto and provolone rolls with the surprise addition of anchovies just to jooj it up. I thought it worked but Rob? Not so much.

What’s wrong with just a ham cheese tomato sanger

Not long after we came to a fork in the road. My navigational device, loaded with the complete route directed me onto the left fork. The Ciclovia Parcia signs that were prominently displayed every few kilometres along the route clearly showed us to veer right. We took the right option (and as it turned out, the incorrect option) and followed the signs conscientiously up into the hills. After passing a few small towns we arrived in Sant’ Agato Di Asaro which immediately had a much better vibe than last nights town. It was now closing in on 5pm and the main square was coming alive. Our destination was theoretically only 8 kilometres away so we decided to keep going.

We couldn’t find any directional signs. I referred back to my guide book that had no mention of this town. Google maps had us 30 kilometres off route with 650 metres of climbing to rejoin the route so well pulled up stumps there and then. It’s like the Italian Tourist Bureau knew I was coming and intentionally played a practical joke. Rob could see I was annoyed and wisely left me alone.

Again, no one here speaks a word of English but google translate came to our rescue. I typed in ‘we need a room for the night’ and the guy running the bar made a quick call and typed ‘wait 20 minutes’. So we ordered two beers and sat in the square. Sure enough a bloke turns up at the appointed time just as Rob knocks his beer over which smashes into pieces. He leads us around the corner to a modern 2 bedroom apartment. Hallelujah for that! With breakfast it was 70 euros which seems to be the going rate. The 160 euros we paid for last night was a joke. We took a complete bath on that. Or as I prefer to say, a bubble bath. (Sorry!)

We found a small trattoria off the square and had a commendable pizza followed by a penne pasta of some obscure variety which hit the spot perfectly. A litre of house red was 4 euros so we settled for just a glass each. It was surprisingly drinkable and came chilled with tasting and paring notes. All for the princely sum of 28 euros but cash only. None of the businesses seem to have credit card facilities.

We pass up the option of a gelato on the way home and settle in to the luxury of our own beds. It’s been another great days cycling.

Today's ride: 64 km (40 miles)
Total: 172 km (107 miles)

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