October 12, 2024
And finally we camped!
Canola Nuova to outside Gambari
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What a great time you and Rob have had
2 months ago
As I write this blog I’m sitting by a campfire next to a babbling brook in a pristine forest of fur and pine trees. We only had to wander about 300 metres up a track into the forest to find one of the best camping spots I think I have ever pitched a tent at. Apart from the brook that’s babbling away furiously, we’re in a secluded valley with a ruin in the backdrop just for a bit of added character. There’s plenty of firewood and a fire pit waiting for a fire to be lit. And it’s all enveloped by this amazing forest. Plus 2 bars of 3G coverage!
But back to the start of today. We were up by 7am and back down to the restaurant an hour later all packed up and ready to go straight after breakfast. Breakfast generally has been quite hit and miss. Some are just a croissant and coffee, others are a much more expansive affair with cakes, bread and yoghurt and fresh fruit. Today’s was one of the better ones with a beautiful fruit compote, two types of yoghurt and a variety of breads and biscotti. The biscotti somehow accidentally ended up in my saddlebag.
We were on track to leave by 8.30 until Rob’s errant hat decided to take another wander. just as he was cycling back to our shack the Venetians turned up with said hat in hand. I think they’re heartily sick of us, what with me asking them way too many questions and us generally doing dumb shit in their presence. Having resuecured his hat onto the bike rack we managed two kilometres before Rob’s headlight fell off his bike and another five before his right pannier dislodged and started scraping his wheel. Both screws holding the bag together had loosened, with one falling off completely. Not to be outdone, within the next hour I managed to impale my sock in the belt drive of my bike whilst backing up to take a photo. This required Rob to take up a very rare yoga position whilst lifting the back of my bike and manoeuvring his left hand under my right foot whilst moving the pedal back with his right hand and avoiding my left leg. It was a shit show.
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https://www.inaturalist.org/taxa/55869-Cyclamen/browse_photos?place_id=6753
2 months ago
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As we had decided to camp tonight I thought I’d test out my stove and gas bottle I’d bought in Arezzo by brewing up a pot of tea at our first rest break. Having struggled to remove the protective cap I found it had no thread so it was completely incompatible with my burner. I’ve never seen a bottle like it ever before. We ate the biscotti, had a rest and moved on.
It’s up and down all day today with a big 400 metre climb at the end to the ski village of Gambarie. Our plan was to try and get at least half way up the climb and then look for a spot.
Again it was a sensational ride. The wind and cloud of yesterday had gone making the uphill pinches comfortable and the downhills chilly under the tree cover. The road was quite rough with deep potholes difficult to see in the dappled light.
We found yet another great lunch spot and filled our water bottles at the water spouts dotted along the road. The Venetians rode past us whilst having lunch, gave us a forced smile and hoped like hell we’d never cross their path again.
After some more ups and downs we launched into a monster descent on a glorified driveway that wound its way down to the valley floor before the final climb. Being a Saturday the mushroomers were out in force. Gino popped out of the forest and stopped for a chat. He had basic English and I told him that we were camping in the forest tonight. He immediately offered me a porcini mushroom which was destined to be a welcome addition to our (now) campfire meal.
Canola Nuova had a tiny grocery store but still stocked over 30 varieties of cheeses and cured meats. I picked up a packet of gnocchi (only needs 2 minutes) a bottle of sugo and a big tomato. The porcini was a perfect late addition.
It was well after 3pm before we started the climb and another hour to get half way up it. Conveniently there was a small restaurant and bar there, the first we’d passed all day. I had a hot chocolate, Rob and espresso and we picked up some biscuits and chocolate for desert.
We were now on the lookout for a camping spot, ideally hidden from the road and some running water. Not 200 metres from the restaurant I saw a track leading into the forest and bingo! Here I am now tapping away at my iPad at 10pm in front of a raging fire whilst Rob is long gone to bed and undoubtedly in a deep sleep.
I suspect it will be a tad chilly here in the morning, but nothing a fire and cup of tea won’t fix.
Today's ride: 53 km (33 miles)
Total: 626 km (389 miles)
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