December 3, 2014
A Win Win Situation
A Win Win Situation
I'm quite sad to be leaving Myanmar after only a month. Why all S.E. Asian countries provide only one month visas I'll never know. On bikes this time, Myanmar's roads could have easily provided three months of fun. It could have been even more of an adventure than it was. And it would have given me more time to be critical of the Myanmar government! As much as I admire and love the Myanmar people, I despise their government. Therefore a valid question might be asked of me. If I loathe the Myanmar government so much why do I continue to return to Myanmar?
A pattern of travel has evolved for me over a period of many years in which I return to many of the same places repeatedly in order to go deeper in my understanding of that culture. I seek out the same people and, no matter how much time has passed between visits, people always remember me and want to talk. It's a slow process fitting all the puzzle pieces but one that has been quite rewarding. I find the many cultures in S.E. Asia fascinating in their similarities as well as their differences.
The people of Myanmar, having been some of the most isolated people on earth for many years, are quite moved that someone from the other side of the world remembers them and takes the time to return. I can't do much to change the Myanmar government but I've found that the simple act of returning repeatedly to talk with its citizens helps.
On one trip to Myanmar in 2005 I met a man who owned a tiny, simple stationery stall in the market. He was very excited to talk with me. He'd learned English from listening religiously to Voice of America on his radio. For several days in a row I sat with him at his shop in the market. We were both sure we were being watched by government spies but every time I told him I should leave he told me he wouldn't get in trouble from simply talking with me. He said he was too old for the authorities to bother with him. I worried about him but he insisted I stay.
He had the only laminating machine in town and while I talked with him he would occasionally get a customer who needed a drivers license or photo laminated. He would fire up a small generator so he could start his laminator and then it took a long time for the laminator to heat up. Sometimes he had to send a boy out to get a half a bottle of gasoline for the generator. It took many minutes to finally be set to laminate but he was patient. The customer stood patiently. Everyone knew that things take time.
Even though my friend could not come out and say it, I knew he hated his government. He, (along with most of his countrymen), was powerless to do anything about it. He also couldn't mention Aung San Suu Kyi's name. But he had patience and in the end maybe that's a powerful attribute to have.
At the end of my time with him he invited me to see his house. I was reluctant because I knew spies would be watching. He insisted it would be all right. I entered his very nice yet humble home. All he wanted was for me to see where he lived but there may have been something he didn't verbalize as well. He pointed out the main beam of his house which was a very large log running low through the living and dining room ceilings. He said, "It's very strong," and looked up at it proudly. Then I saw it. On the log he'd painted in white paint, "Hope Never Dies." He wanted me to see how strong, patient and positive he was. He represents most of the people of Myanmar.
I think that in the dark days of government control Andrea and I made a difference to a few individuals in Myanmar. I'm not of much importance in my own country but in S.E Asia I become an ambassador from America for the handful of people I come in contact. A handful of people can change history. My coming to see the people of Myanmar meant the world had not forgotten them. That was always their biggest fear. I told them that I was proof that we had not. Just by showing up and talking to them gave them hope and I feel it's one of the biggest gifts I've ever given anyone. It didn't take much effort on my part and I made some real friends in return.
Now, after one more month spent in Myanmar, after seeing some of our old friends and after seeing the New Myanmar emerging, I feel the darkest days are past. They're taking flight.
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Just get a load of some of the new business names I wrote down. I doubt any of these existed six years ago. It used to be "Golden" this and "Golden" that for business names but now the tone is modern, upbeat, and fun.
Top,Glory,Merry,Today,Lucky Man Co.,Joyful,Smart Girl Thai Fashion,Bonanza,Wonderful House,Boy,Bob,Oxygen Liquor Mart,Texa's Fashion Shop,Fashion Crab,Date Cafe,Success, andDelight
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When we stayed at the Remember Inn in Nyaungshwe each morning there was a girl who asked us what we wanted for breakfast. The first morning I chose one of the items and she immediately said, "Oh yeah!," with the sort of enthusiasm as if to say I had chosen the best thing on the menu. The next day I ordered something different and her response was the same, "Oh yeah!." The third day, a third item and the same response. It was pretty cute. This is the sort of spirit I see in Myanmar now. Everything is exciting now. It's truly a Win Win situation. (Win is a common first OR last name in Myanmar.)
Lovebruce
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This entry was particularly valuable because it's easy to overlook the importance of simple presence and genuine interest.
As you say, "Just by showing up and talking to them gave them hope and I feel it's one of the biggest gifts I've ever given anyone."
The time that you 2 have taken to share your thoughts and experiences is also a great gift. What I've learned about your approach to travel will certainly influence my future travels. I will keep in mind WWBAAD .. What Would Bruce and Andrea Do? :0)
5 years ago
5 years ago