D6: 来源 → 灵丘（双语）

September 23, 2024

For 298y you would think that my room would include the hotel's breakfast buffet but, when I go down to the second floor, I'm told that it's an extra 38y. Being as I know I like the oatmeal, raisins, and purple yam protein powder I've got in the room (as well as knowing that I usually don't like most of what's offered at hotel buffets like this), I decline and go back upstairs.

For a Vienna Hotel¹ it's nicer than average. Still with the schlocky faux 18th century furniture (that's been gilded with paint that looks nothing at all like gold) that's part of the brand's signature style, but they've gone out of their way to include big pictures in the halls of local natural and historic attractions.

花了298元，本以为我订的房间会包含自助早餐，结果当我下到二楼时，却被告知还得另付38元。我喜欢吃自带的燕麦片、葡萄干，还有紫山药蛋白粉（而且我也清楚，像这类酒店自助早餐提供的食物，大多我都不喜欢），我就拒绝了，回到楼上。

就维也纳酒店¹而言，这家比平均水平要好些。依旧是那种俗气的仿18世纪风格家具，刷着金漆，却一点也不像真金，这也是该品牌标志性的风格，但他们特意在走廊挂上当地自然景观和历史景点的大幅照片。

I have to admit to being impressed by the little robot that delivered my passport back to my room 说实话，那个送护照的小机器人给我留下了深刻印象。

First tumbleweed of the Tour 此次骑行第一次遇到风滚草

Once again my plans to take a day off, do my laundry, and recover from six months of not biking are foiled by the whole hotel situation. With central air that doesn't include a heating option this early in the year and a shower that also doesn't meet my standards in terms of being properly hot or having enough pressure to bother shampooing my hair, I'm surely not going to take my rest day someplace that's around 4× my usual cost for a room, and the way in which last night went down doesn't give me confidence that going anywhere else in town will result in anything other than my ending up back here.

I'm supposed to be taking a county road across a high mountain where the pass has an obelisk what looks like it's probably a War Against Japanese Aggression memorial but—even though I never want to be on the national road if I can avoid it—the way my legs are feeling, plus the topo profile, plus the knowledge that I'll end up descending the pass as it's turning colder have me on the next route south.

我原本打算休一天假，洗洗衣服，缓解一下六个月没骑车的疲惫感，结果酒店的情况把计划全搅黄了。秋天的时候它中央空调没有制热选项，淋浴也达不到我的标准，水温不够热，水压也不足，根本没法好好洗头，我肯定不会花将近平时的四倍房费在这儿休息。况且昨晚的经历让我觉得，就算换个地方住，最后可能还是得回到这儿。

我本打算走一条县道翻越高山，山口那儿有个方尖碑，可能是抗日战争纪念碑。虽说只要能避开，我绝不走国道，但我这双腿的状态，加上地形图，再考虑到越往山口下走天气越冷，我还是选了那个县道南下的一条国道。

Someone was quite perturbed by how much sunbeam my bike was occupying 猫咪对我的自行车占了太多阳光位置有点不开心。

I've never had 红烧肉 (braised pork belly) in a flat bread wrap before. 我以前从没吃过夹着红烧肉的面饼。

If you've ever been to a Wanda Plaza in China, you'll understand why this being called Wanda Shop is so funny 要是你去过万达广场，就会明白把这儿叫“万达商店”有多好笑。

Which turns out to be amazing.

Now I don't know what was going on with the G108 portion of the day cause the road looked like it had been resurfaced within the past two or three years, maybe widened in the last five, and there was practically no traffic to the point that the majority of dead restaurants were looking closer to 20 years old than 10.

The G112, at least, I had the Traffic Cops² to explain that this had been re-designated a Tourism Route from which all large through vehicles were banned. But the G108 was a mystery.

结果发现棒极了。

我真搞不懂今天走的G108路段是怎么回事，这条路看起来像是过去两三年才重铺过，也许过去五年还拓宽过，可几乎没什么车流量，大多数废弃的餐馆看上去关停了差不多20年。

至少G112这条路，交警²给我解释说它被重新规划成了旅游路线，大型过境车辆都禁行。但G108就很神秘了。

1000y reward for reporting illegal outdoor fires 奖励挺高的

I swear this is the National Road 这可是真国道

Finally, a truck. Singular 终于来了辆卡车，也就一辆。

Speaking of mysteries, I spent roughly 25km paralleling the most perfect greenway without ever figuring out how to get onto it. Not that I necessarily minded the generally quite gentle ups and downs of the road I was on, but it was so incredibly frustrating to see an obviously maintained purpose built bike path that had substantially gentler grades and ZERO TRAFFIC and never³ be able to figure out how to get to it.

Stunning scenery all day long, reasonable temperatures, a friend confirming that she would be joining me for the upcoming Golden Week Holiday⁴, just enough work trickling in from the Media Center that my frequent stops were for legitimate⁵ non-fatigue reasons.

说到神秘的事，我沿着一条超绝的绿道骑行了大概25公里，却始终没找到上去的路。倒不是说我在意这条路的平缓起伏，只是眼睁睁看着一条明显有人维护、专门修建的自行车道，坡度更缓还没车，却怎么也上不去³，太让人抓狂了。

一整天风景绝美，气温宜人，一位朋友确定在即将到来的黄金周假期⁴和我会合，媒体中心也陆陆续续有些工作过来，所以我频繁停车也有正当⁵的理由、并非因为累了。

If it had been two hours earlier in the day or if Dr. M⁶ had recognized it, I might have been willing to go up there 要是再早两个小时，或者M博士⁶能认出来的话，我可能就愿意上去看看了。

About the only thing that could have made it more perfect was a problem-free hotel check-in.

My hotel was chosen completely at random, so how exactly I ended up at a place that some guy biking from Tianjin was also at, I'll never know. I spent maybe 5 minutes outside the hotel prepping my helmet cam, forgetting that I had additional GoPro batteries, doing a bit of Bob Ross-style "calm happy thoughts meditation" ... and was in my room 12 minutes later.

And the only reason it took that long was because of the number of people in the lobby who wanted to take photos with me...and the aforementioned guy from Tianjin who wanted to know all the details of my exact route.

要是能顺利入住酒店，这一天就堪称完美了。

我选这家酒店完全是随机的，所以我怎么也想不明白，为什么会碰到一个从天津骑车过来的人也住这儿。我在酒店外花了大概5分钟调试头盔摄像机，忘了自己还有备用的电池，还做了点像鲍勃·罗斯（Bob Ross）风格的“平静愉悦冥想”……12分钟后我就进了房间。

之所以花了这么久，是因为大堂里好多人要和我合影……还有刚才提到的那位天津来的哥们儿，他想打听我具体的骑行路线。

Judging by the color of the statues compared to the rock, they are either modern or have recently been "restored" 从雕像与岩石的颜色对比来看，这些雕像要么是现代的，要么是最近才“修复”过的。

Girding my loins for tonight's battle 准备好应对今晚的“战斗”

Photographing my passport as a method of "registration"⁷ 拍护照就是“登记”⁷了

¹ Which I'm only just now learning is one of the many brands owned by Jinjiang

¹我也是刚刚才知道，维也纳酒店是锦江旗下的众多品牌之一。

² Who topped my bottles and insisted on giving me bottled water as well

²交警给我的水瓶加满了，还非要再给我几瓶瓶装水。

³ Not entirely never. I found an entrance to it where it ended. But, a bike path that's at least 25km long must have intermediate access points.

³也不是完全没找到入口。在绿道尽头我发现了一个入口。但一条至少25公里长的自行车道，肯定得有中间入口才对。

⁴ And she's bringing a resupply of the Beans of Life

⁴她还会给我带些“生命豆”来。

⁵ Fatigue is also a legitimate reason. I just like to pretend that I'm not as tired as I actually am.

⁵疲劳当然也是正当理由。我只是喜欢假装自己没那么累。

It's pretty obvious why this has been turned into a Scenic Route 这条路被改成旅游专线的原因很明显。

It's not quite narrow enough to be what the Chinese call an 一线天 (one line of sky) canyon 这儿还没窄到能被中国人称作“一线天”峡谷。

⁶ Or any of the Buddhist scholars at the conference she's currently at

⁶或者是她正参加的会议上的任何一位佛教学者。

⁷ Many of the places where the police have been proactive about actually following the new "thou shalt not make local policies that contradict national policy" guidelines regarding foreigners and hotels have taken one look at the clusterfuck of painful that is the existing registration system and decided that photographing the relevant pages of our passports is registration.

⁷很多地方的警方在执行有关外国人和酒店的新规定——“不得制定与国家政策相悖的地方政策”时，看了一眼现存混乱又繁琐的登记系统，就决定拍一下护照的相关页就算登记了。

Level crossing ahead, please show caution 这标语来得及时

This is from before the Scenic Route 这是上旅游专线之前的景象

Corpse of a restaurant that was 一家废弃餐馆的残骸

Another former restaurant, maybe only abandoned for 8 or 10 years 又一家，废弃可能有八到十年了

Getting chicken sandwiches delivered to my room for dinner 点了鸡肉三明治送到房间当晚餐

Today's ride: 59 km (37 miles)
Total: 407 km (253 miles)

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D6: 来源 → 灵丘 （双语）

D6: 来源 → 灵丘（双语）