D1: 后沙峪 → 固安 (双语)

September 18, 2024

I've never seen this symbol before. Means "cars and bikes may share the lane but bikes have priority" 我以前从没见过这个标识。它的意思是“机动车和自行车可以共用一条车道，但自行车享有优先通行权”。

When I left O & A's this morning, Beijing rush hour was just starting. So, even if I hadn't already planned to take a sharebike for some large portion of today, there was no way I was going to The Beijinger other than by bike.

Sure, it happened to be over 20km¹, but the efforts to "civilize" traffic that have been going on elsewhere in the country have also been going on here and have been going on just as aggressively and I think barely 1 in every 1,000 two wheelers I saw was driving the wrong way or doing something equally stupid, and the cars weren't even darting into the bike lanes at all².

今天早上我离开O & A的家的时候，北京交通高峰期才刚刚开始。所以，即便我原本没打算今天大部分路程都骑共享单车，但除了骑单车之外，其他的去《北京人》杂志社的方法太不舒服。

确实，路程刚好超过20公里¹，不过一直在全国其他地方开展的交通“文明”举措在这里也同样在大力推行，而且力度一点也不逊色。我看到的每1000个骑两轮车的人里，几乎只有1个是逆行或者做其他的蠢事，而且机动车压根不会突然冲进自行车道了²。

Technically, he's over into my lane, but there's roadworks (under construction viaduct above) and they're a bit squeezed 严格来说，他开到我的车道里来了，但那里有道路施工（上方有正在修建的高架桥），道路有点变窄了。

Obviously, the Greenway doesn't want bikes 显然，这条绿道不欢迎自行车通行。

Other than being from 1872 (Guangxu 18), I didn't try to read it 除了发现它源自1872年（清光绪十八年）之外，我没去研读其他内容了。

Spent at least an hour chatting with Dan from the Beijinger while sucking down a very welcome, very cold, and very perfect combination of sugar, fats, and caffeine in the form of a Mocha Java Chip Frappacino³.

From there, it was only a little over 10km by bike to the offices of Important State-owned Publishing Company or 2km + subway + 2km, so—of course—I rode that too.

Not really wanting to keep with the AliBike now that I had added two somewhat heavy books to my bag, I planned to take the subway. But, a 3:30pm lunch stop⁴ on my way to the subway ended up turning in to an Emergency Work Break with my Hainan Media Client. And, by the time I was near the subway, rush hour had started again.

我和《北京人》杂志的法国朋友丹至少聊了一个小时，期间还美滋滋地喝了一杯摩卡可可碎片星冰乐³，那可是糖、脂肪和咖啡因的绝妙又冰爽的完美搭配。

从那里骑行到那家重要的国有出版公司只有10公里多一点的路程，或者也可以先走2公里，再坐地铁，然后再走2公里，所以——当然了——我还是选择骑车前往。

由于离出版社时包里多了两本挺沉的书，其实我不太想继续骑哈罗单车了，我原本打算坐地铁的。但是，在前往地铁站的途中，下午3点30分吃午饭时⁴，我和海南媒体客户临时来了一场紧急工作会议。而且，等我快到地铁站的时候，交通高峰期又开始了。

Only Beijing-plated cars are allowed past this point 只有挂京牌的汽车才允许驶入。

Cosplay in Hanfu is quite popular these days 如今，穿着汉服进行角色扮演相当流行。

So I biked the 15km to the express train back to Daxing.
53km on sharebikes.

And then, because I really really really wanted to actually start my Tour today, even though it was already dark by the time I got to the hotel where I'd left my bike, I got my bike, changed into one of my new pairs of bike shorts and a jersey that is old enough to vote⁵ and did another 20km on my bike.

所以我骑行了15公里去搭乘回大兴的快速列车。
骑行共享单车总共53公里。

然后，因为我真的真的非常想在今天就正式开启我的骑行之旅，尽管等我回到之前停放自行车的酒店时天已经黑了，我还是取了车，换上一条新买的骑行短裤和一件年头久到都能“投票”的上衣⁵，又骑了20公里。

Having seen a substantial percentage of the scenery when I bussed out to the bike shop two days before, I didn't really miss that much by doing it in the dark.

As well, although the mid-tier local police have called back in response to my government hotline complaint asking me to both explain the problem and what I'd like done about it⁶, she clearly had no idea what I was talking about, and even if she sounded rattled by the sheer weight of the document number that I knew, I also knew that the only place I was going to be about to stay hassle-free in the immediate vicinity was the same very clean but inconvenient hotel I'd already spent three nights at.

由于两天前我坐公交去自行车店的时已经看过相当一部分沿途风景了，所以在夜里骑行也没错过太多景色。

而且，尽管当地的警察中层对我拨打政府热线投诉的事儿给我回了电话，让我解释清楚问题，还让我说我希望他们如何处理这件事⁶，但很明显她根本不懂我在说什么，即便听上去她被我知道的那个文件编号的分量给吓到了，可我也清楚，当下在这附近我唯一能不受打扰住下的地方，就是我已经住了三晚的那家虽然很干净但不太方便的酒店。

But I think their clothing is Qing 我认为她们穿的是清朝服饰。

Oi you dirty pigs, this area has 24 CCTV monitoring, and the public toilets are 30m away. No pissing or shitting. 嘿，你们这些邋遢鬼，这片区域有24小时的闭路电视监控，公共厕所就在30米开外。不许随地大小便。

Billboards of Civility Enhancement 很有意思的中式英语

Hebei wasn't promising "no hassle." But, it was promising something different. The apps that aren't supposed to even list "takes or doesn't take foreigners" as a criteria anymore still do (that's another complaint for another time) and there were places in my desired price range, so I booked at one⁷ of those.

I would have a little bit of a problem finding⁸ them when I got in, but 85y for a studio apartment with a mini washing machine and a front desk that knew what to do with a passport.

河北可没法保证不会有麻烦事。不过，它的吸引力在它如果有麻烦有别样的麻烦。那些按理说甚至都不该再把“接不接待外国人”列为筛选条件的应用程序，却依然还在这么做（这又是另一个下次可以投诉的问题了），而且在我期望的价格区间内有一些房源，所以我就在订了一间⁷。

我到那儿之后，找⁸预订的地方时还出了点小问题，不过85元就能住上带迷你洗衣机的公寓，而且前台知道处理护照的相关事宜。

¹ 26km, once I stopped for a Sausage Egg McMuffin breakfast at McDonald's.
¹ 骑了26公里，我中途还在麦当劳停下来吃了一份猪柳蛋麦满分早餐。

² I remember walking in the street rather than on the sidewalk, cause the traffic on the street was more predictable.
²我还记得刚来中国的那个年代我走在马路上而不是人行道上，因为马路上的交通状况更容易预判。

At Caoqiao Station to go back to Daxing 在草桥站，准备回大兴

³ Not something I usually go for on account of just how loaded it is with sugar†.

† This is not a 'diet' thing, nor is it a holier-than-thou 'I eat good' thing, I just don't like stuff that's that sweet.

³ 我平时一般不会点这个，因为它糖分太高了†。

†这不是出于“节食”的原因，也不是那种自以为是的“我吃得健康”的情况，我只是单纯不喜欢太甜的东西。

⁴ Taco Bell, because I had to try it and see what it was like.

⁴ 叫Taco Bell的一家国际品牌垃圾快餐，因为我得去尝尝看它是什么味道。

⁵ In the United States, you must be 18 years old to vote. I also have t-shirts which are old enough to drink (21 years).

⁵ 美国人18岁后才能投票。我也有满喝酒年龄（21岁）的T恤。

⁶ Look up the documents† I've just told you about and issue a department-wide notice that is forwarded to the local hotels and which says: "we won't be telling you you can't take foreigners in the future."

† 国发［2024］5号 for the one I knew off the top of my head.

⁶ 你们该查阅我刚跟你们提到的文件，然后发布一个全部门范围的通知，转发给当地的酒店，通知内容是“今后我们不会再告诉你们不能接待外国人了”。

† 我所知道的那个文件编号是国发［2024］5号

Sometimes, even knowing you'll regret it, you still have to try 有时候，即便知道自己会后悔，你还是得去尝试一下。

No one is actually checking the vehicles leaving Beijing 实际上并没有人检查离京的车辆。

⁷ Well ackshually, I booked in at one, then I realized I had booked in at the one at the farthest southern end of Gu'an, so I canceled and booked in at another.

⁷ 嗯，其实呢，我先在一家酒店预订了房间，然后我意识到我订的是固安最南端的那一家，于是我取消了预订，又在另一家订了房。

⁸ The signage wasn't as clear as I'd like for a place that requires you to go to the 8th floor of an apartment building, but the problem was mostly with the person reading the signage.

⁸对于一个需要你去到公寓楼8楼的地方来说，标识并没有我期望的那么清晰，不过主要问题还是出在看标识的人身上。

Today's ride: 73 km (45 miles)
Total: 126 km (78 miles)

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