T-3 & 2: 伏家 → 北京 (双语) - Autumn Allegro in Asia - CycleBlaze

September 13, 2024 to September 14, 2024

T-3 & 2: 伏家 → 北京 (双语)

It seems that the distillery's parent company once sponsored the Tour of Qinghai Lake 这家酒厂的母公司似乎赞助过环青海湖自行车赛。
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I am superbly unimpressed by the baijiu distillery. So unimpressed in fact that I'm kind of glad that, on account of three cases 2,500km away, they pulled the "because of the worsening Covid situation" card when I biked past three years ago and wouldn't let me in for a visit.

Don't get me wrong, with the exception of gibberish-level English signage, the facilities are absolutely top notch in a "someone who actually studied museum design was consulted on this project" sort of way. It's just that, separate from the total lack of any indication that they get more than 1 or 2 tourists at a time, the end product they are trying to produce is one that—shocking price tag notwithstanding—is the kind of vile "umami flavor" sorghum based liquor that is part of why baijiu persists in not gaining popularity outside China. 

我对这家白酒厂实在是没什么好感,实际上是非常无感,以至于我还挺庆幸三年前我骑车经过这里时,就因为远在2500公里之外的三起病例,他们打出了“由于新冠疫情形势加剧”的理由不让我进去参观。

别误会我的意思,除了那些不知所云的英文标识外,这里的设施绝对是一流的,感觉是在这个项目上咨询过真正学过博物馆设计的专业人士。只是,撇开完全看不出他们一次接待超过一两名游客这一点不谈,他们试图生产出来的最终产品——先不说那令人咋舌的价格——是一种难喝的、带有“鲜味”的高粱酒,这也是白酒在国外一直没能流行起来的部分原因。

Some of the people managed to drink more than one of the shots provided during the tour 在参观过程中,有些人喝下了不止一杯提供的酒。
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Clay aging vats 陶制陈酿大缸
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Historic wooden aging vats, the oldest of which are 16th century 具有历史意义的木制陈酿酒海,其中最古老的可追溯到清初
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Being a former State Owned Enterprise of the "successful at embracing capitalism" sort, the company then has another site for us to visit afterwards, and, other than it being an hour drive away¹ on the expressway, I'm absolutely in love.

Similar to the distillery which they own in that the mine is an active worksite to which a museum—mostly empty of signs that visitors have ever visited—has been clumsily appended, a great deal more effort has been put into layman level exhibits, while also managing to include a wealth of information of the sort that you'd have to be a proper geek to actually find interesting.

作为一家曾经属于那种“成功拥抱资本主义”的国有企业,之后这家公司还有另一个地方供我们参观,而且,除了它有一小时的高速公路车程才外¹,我简直爱死它了。

和他们旗下的那家酒厂类似,这是一个正在作业的矿区,旁边生硬地附设了一座博物馆——馆内大多没有游客到访过的迹象。他们在展品布置上花了更多心思,同时也设法涵盖了大量的信息,不过得是十足的发烧友才会真觉得这些信息有意思。

Sorghum mash 高粱麦芽浆
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Collection of alcohol utensils dating back to the 9th century 可追溯到唐代的酒具藏品
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Replica bronze ding (ceremonial vessel) and 1960s car in front of the mine museum 矿区博物馆前有仿青铜鼎和一辆20世纪60年代的汽车
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Did we need to follow a docent through their massive warehouse of core samples from across the region? No.

Was it kind of cool that we were able to? Yes.

Cooler still was the 5D movie theater (rumble seats, 3d glasses, and the sadly unused option for smellovision) where we got to watch a cartoon version of a Very Proud Employee introduce us to all the safety and environmental features that make this mine an absolute leader in both categories. With background details ranging from safety posters and newspaper racks to the 20 extra pounds one of the heavy equipment operators was carrying around his waist, it was also obvious that actual people and places from inside the mine had been 3D modelled and cartoonified.

我们有必要跟着一名讲解员穿过他们那存放着地区各地岩芯样本的巨大仓库吗?没必要。

我们那样做,是不是还挺酷的?是的。

更酷的是那个5D电影院(有敞篷座椅、3D眼镜,还有很可惜没启用的气味模拟功能选项),在那里我们观看了一部卡通版的宣传片,一位非常自豪的员工在片中向我们介绍了这座矿洞在安全和环保方面的所有特色,使其在这两方面都堪称绝对的佼佼者。从安全海报、报刊架,到一位重型设备操作员腰间多出的十几斤赘肉等背景细节可以看出,矿洞内部真实的人物和场景显然都经过了3D建模并制作成了卡通形象。

Core Library 岩芯样本库
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Safety demonstration movie theater 安全演示电影院
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Model of the layers of the mine 矿地层模型
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The rest of the day was spent traipsing to and from the kind of places I like to bike and that no one really wants to visit but which the local propaganda departments would like to promote anyways².

Up at 7:30 for breakfast and a drive to some Han Dynasty inscriptions that were mostly notable for the pleasant cliffside boardwalk to go and not be able to actually see much of anything behind the protective glass wall³ that had been installed a meter in front of them.

那天剩下的时间都花在了往返于我喜欢骑车去的地方,除了我以外这些地方没有什么人真的想去参观,但当地宣传部门怎么样都想推广一下²。

7点30分起床吃早餐,然后坐车去看一些汉代的摩崖石刻,这些石刻最值得一提的是通往那里的美妙崖边小道,不过在石刻前方一米处安装了保护玻璃墙³,透过玻璃墙其实也看不太清后面的内容。

Glory to the Roadbuilders! Plaque from 1812 向修路人致敬!1812年的牌匾
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Boardwalk post holes from 117 BCE 公元前117年的木板路柱洞
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Culture Revolution era heart shaped red 忠 (Loyalty to Mao) sigils 文化大革命时期的心形红色“忠”(忠于毛主席)标识
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This was followed by lunch and a drive to a Local Key Agricultural Products and Rural Revitalization Display Center (where I dutifully purchased a bottle of persimmon wine to give as a gift to a Beijing friend), a dull as dishwater memorial temple on the site of Du Fu's Thatched Cottage, and the airport for our flights to Beijing.

之后我们吃了午饭,然后驾驶去了一个当地特色农产品及乡村振兴展示中心(我在那里尽责地买了一瓶柿子酒,当作礼物送给一位北京的朋友),接着去了杜甫草堂旧址上一座乏味至极的纪念庙宇,最后前往机场搭乘飞往北京的航班。

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¹ Biggest downside of junkets is the amount of time you spent being transferred from one place to the next.

¹ 媒体之旅最大的弊端就是要花大量时间从一个地方辗转到另一个地方。

The VIP waiting room we got to sit in at the airport had crochet doilies... crochet can't be made on a machine.我们在机场的贵宾候机室里有钩针编织的小垫布……要知道钩针编织品可没法用机器制作。
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The Guest Reception Hall at the mine was, hard as it may be to believe, even gaudier than the Hall at the distillery 尽管可能令人难以置信,但是那座矿区的宾客接待大厅甚至比那家酒厂的大厅还要俗艳。
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It never occurred to me that it would be possible to panel an elevator in alligator leather 我以前从未想过竟然能用鳄鱼皮革来装饰电梯内壁。
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Gregory GarceauNothing like an elevator decorated like a Texan's cowboy boot.
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3 months ago
Marian RosenbergTo Gregory GarceauOther than how incredibly gaudy everything was, I have to admit nothing clashed.
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3 months ago
Bill ShaneyfeltNotice also (although I can't tell which is which by the processed hide) that both alligators and crocodiles are extremely endangered species in Asia.
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4 weeks ago

² They might not end up included in any of our reports, but our presence will surely end up included in their reports.

³ I understand the logic for keeping people's grubby hands off of something 2,100 years old, and the glass was reasonably clean, but you still couldn't see anything.

² 这些地方可能最终不会出现在我们的任何报告中,但我们的到访肯定会被写进他们的报告里。 

³ 我理解要防止人们的脏手触碰有2100年历史的东西的逻辑,而且那块玻璃也还算干净,但你还是什么都看不见。

I, unironically, love the decoration on this "traditional" pavilion overlooking the whole of the mine campus 说真的,我很喜欢这座“传统”亭子的装饰,还可以俯瞰整个矿厂区。
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Detail 细节
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Somehow, Alex, the Sri Lankan, and I, ended up in business class 不知怎地,我那个斯里兰卡人,和亚历克斯(Alex)最后坐上了商务舱
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Gregory GarceauYou didn't specifically say, but I assume the liquor made by the Baijiu Distillery is whiskey. I've never had sorghum whiskey, but if its anything like gluten-free, sorghum-based beer, I can appreciate your disdain for the stuff. As you said, though, it looks like the museum designers did a top-notch job.
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3 months ago
Marian RosenbergTo Gregory GarceauCloser to vodka than whisky, the name "baijiu" literally means "white spirits" or "distilled grain alcohol". It doesn't always include sorghum, but it often does, and even when it doesn't, they are actually trying for that particular flavor profile.
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3 months ago
Bill ShaneyfeltSounds like good alcohol stove fuel anyway... :-)
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4 weeks ago
Marian RosenbergTo Bill ShaneyfeltThen you would have to smell it
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3 weeks ago
Bill ShaneyfeltTo Marian RosenbergFrom your writings, I think I would use something else!
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3 weeks ago