February 12, 2016
Dayu via the steep Mei Pass
along the X341 and the G323
It's only about six kilometres - not 10 as I’d noted - before I get off the 342 and ride on a distinctly quieter bit of road, namely the X341. The turnoff nearly escapes me as my attention is on the computer digits, watching them clock up to that magical number, when I spot the sign. It's a nice surprise and even better to be away from the constant flow of cars zipping east and west.
Within 15 minutes of starting the ride (at a rather lazy 10 o’clock) the sky ahead has become dark and rain looks like it'll come pouring down, but no, the sun shines for a minute and then vanishes as clouds blow across from ahead of me.
After an hour of leaving the hotel I’ve only managed to cycle 12km, but I’ve earmarked this as an easy day after the previous one’s exertions. There are no hills and the rural setting makes for a nice, relaxing ride. My humble goal is the town of Dayu, which entails a total of around 50km of cycling.
When I originally planned this section via Google Maps, the X341 looked to be incomplete, with a gap in the middle, but it's all there as my wheels roll west and is, for the most part, in pretty decent condition. It winds its way past small hamlets which have a mixture of modern concrete houses clad in glazed tiles and the much easier on the eye low, mud brick homes with those delightful clay tiled roofs. They are places where interaction with locals comes easily.
My first is after just a few kilometers, when I pause to take a snap of a traditional tiled roof that sits right next to the concrete road. While there, I dig into my bar-bag for a kumquat, as these are my breakfast, and notice a man of around 50 watching what I'm up to. After I offer him one, he beckons me into his home, where, at a round table, a couple of men in their 20s sit. Like many Chinese men, they smoke. I learn they are his nephews and that his own son is serving in the army. His wife brings out tea and a few dishes, and he fills me a china bowl of clear alcohol, which tastes a bit like sherry, but packs a lot more bang. A syrupy looking meat dish is extremely spicy and luckily the piece I chose to sample is pretty small. It makes my eyes water.
Another invitation to tea also comes about through taking a snap. I see some kindling tied in bundles and after snapping that decide to take a self-timed shot as I ride down the broad street. By the time that's done, a small group has collected in front of a house to see the exotic cyclist. One is a cheerful, 20-something woman with good English skills and the next thing is my feet are under a low table and people are offering me sweet snacks and yet more green tea. As is the case at this time of year, the young woman has come home from her job (in Guangdong). “Only old people live in Suikouling now,” she tells me.
The X-road joins the G323, which thankfully isn’t too busy. This takes me north before curving west. Within about 30 minutes I’ve got to where an ancient path begins, one which climbs over a pass and drops to Dayu. The historic Mei Pass is a tourist draw and the holidaying Chinese are out in force. The entrance fee, albeit small, means the owners must be making a fortune today.
It’s impossible to ride along the rocky, stepped trail as it’s so steep. Besides, today it's ridiculously crowded. People want selfies with me and many others do a double take when they spot me and then the heavily loaded bike, while others greet me with what English they knew. One guy beams and say I'm crazy.
The steepness is such that I have to stop a few times to cool down. It's a slog, there’re no two ways about it. I recall reading the Mao Zedong may have trod this way, and some other Red leaders, but not about any cyclists. Now I know why.
The drop down is easier, albeit with more pronounced steps, and offer a great view of what I guess is Dayu and the surrounding countryside, with pine forests and high mountains forming a distant backdrop. From the base it's a short ride into downtown along what is called Red Tourism Avenue and I eventually find a decent hotel with the help of two helpful women.
The pair spend 30 or more minutes escorting me to a few hotels. The first is cheap – 70rmb - and with hindsight that should have done, but we embark on a search around Dayu that seems to go on forever.
Where I stay is 180rmb, but the staff don’t know how to register a foreigner, even though my passport details are translated and the two young women can explain things. If there was only been me, it might not have worked out. At least my bike gets a warm place to spend the night, leaning against my bedroom wall.
Today's ride: 50 km (31 miles)
Total: 662 km (411 miles)
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