Mexican Hat - Bluff, UT - The cat named Chevy won't stop this tour, and neither can COVID

June 17, 2020

Mexican Hat - Bluff, UT

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1,657 elevation gain

Last night Matt told the Phoenix couple that they are located on the reservation and have to follow Navajo rules. If that is correct, why could they sell beer? That has been bugging me all day. I googled a map for the nation. Chambers, where we spent the night, is surrounded by the nation, but isn't in it. They did not have beer. It doesn't appear to me that Mexican Hat is in the nation, but that the river is the boundary and they are just barely outside. Who knows. Matt also told me they didn't have wi-fi because it costs $1,000. a month. I don't know if that's fact either.

We have a short mile day with some climbing today. Jacinto lobbied heavily to sleep in. Then he wanted to set the alarm for 6 AM! He prefers a relaxed start to the day. He likes three hours to get ready. If I stay on task, I can be out the door in an hour. If I want to eat my oatmeal while I browse on the computer, it takes longer.

Speaking of oatmeal, we've had three places in a row with no microwaves. Cold oatmeal should be used as punishment . . . . Jacinto has a cold oats mixture that he eats as an evening snack. It has oatmeal, homemade yogurt, fruit, cinnamon, and I'm not sure what all in it. I tried it once. Cold oatmeal is still nasty, even with all of the extras.

I was out the door at 8:20. I knew from experience to drop to my very lowest gear to get out of the driveway. I had done my stretches this morning, so my legs didn't give me any trouble about starting the day with a 10% climb. It was a reasonably short but slow grind into the town of Mexican Hat. Almost everything was closed. We really were lucky to have an open restaurant last night, over priced or not. Even if my green chili consisted of one tablespoon per chicken breast . . . I need to let that go.

I feel kind of guilty about such a short day. But we were giving up our rest day to get two short days. I like short days. There's no pressure. Even though we have climbing, it isn't too much in context.

I told myself to look around and enjoy the scenery. I keep talking about last year, but I remember those days so vividly. We had ridden a short day then also, on Jacinto's request. He knew how the wind blows through here and was afraid we'd have a big headwind. Even though we weren't officially in Monument Valley, the beauty starts early going south. Heading north, the beauty is all behind. I had to stop and look behind me to see red rocks. That's a shame.

I had a shorter uphill and a great big honking climb and that was it for the day. Tomorrow we will have a big climb to get out of Bluff. I'll be sure to do my stretches again.

I rode all the way through town. There's the Desert Rose - it's $230. a night for a room there. It looks really nice. There's the cabin we stayed at last year. It was . . . $50? That was a memorable experience. But not one I care to repeat. Tonight we are at the Kokopelli Inn on the far side of town for $100. I saw one open restaurant as I rode through. The Cottonwood Steakhouse was EXCELLENT last year. Closed.

I pulled in to the motel parking lot. What appears to be the office says private. I rode around the grounds. There was no obvious office. I decided to go to the adjoining gas station and inquire. They have a little deli inside, burgers, sandwiches, and pizza. There's quite a large selection of groceries. A few fresh things. Stores in the middle of nowhere try and carry it all.

Face masks were required and they had partitions at the register. The clerk yelled (politely) at a man coming in that he needed a mask. "Sorry, sorry, I forgot." he said and went back out.

I bought a V-8 and asked about the motel. She said the office was next to the private door, facing the other way. I walked on over. I masked up again. More partitions. The clerk (owner?) also had a mask. With my check in paperwork she gave me a page saying what they are doing to combat COVID. I don't think any other lodging has done that. I inquired about wi-fi. Yes! Double beds were all they had. That's no good for a tall person. Our room is very basic and very small. Bathroom runs in the dark will be a problem. I have thought several times this afternoon that perhaps it would have been worth the price to stay at the Desert Rose. Too many basic rooms in a row is hard on the soul. That's a first world problem, isn't it?

It had been such a short, easy day that I wasn't too hungry. I hooked up to the wi-fi and caught up with my digital world. I'm slightly ashamed of how I miss my internet friends . . . life was very different before smart phones.

Jacinto wasn't too far behind me. He had found another phone and an American flag themed banner. He was happy. I don't know what he thinks he's going to do with this found phone. He's charged it up, but can't open it. The screen is cracked and the date is stuck on June 9th. But, he's happy.

We saw a bike packer at the gas station. He was very dusty and pouring water on his head, torso, and legs. HE and a friend were doing a 250 mile dirt loop that started in Monticello. They had battled brutal headwinds four of five days. He pulled his wet bandana up slightly to go in the store. I wonder if that would pass as a mask?

We've walked over to the gas station and bought chips and salsa for a snack. It's a half mile walk to a take out only restaurant. Jacinto says he'd eat a burger next door. Maybe I'll get a can of chili next door and use Spoon's method of heating - he says to run the sink full of hot water and put the can in it. Keep changing the water out until the chili is hot! I dare you to try that at home.

BTW, Jacinto forgot his pool noodle this morning and actually went back down the hill to the motel to get it. I was impressed.

For dinner we ended up going next door to the gas station deli. We both ordered double cheeseburgers with fries. The girl wrapped mine with lettuce and gave me extra veggies. It was good. We are running way short on vegetables this trip.

Remember back in Bisbee when Jacinto's phone dropped in the gravel? The top quarter of his screen quit working. He ordered a new phone, which they would not mail to a motel (no surprises). It went to our home and has now arrived. Daughter Marcela and her boyfriend Scott are going to deliver it tomorrow in Blanding. They are also going to do a little sight seeing on the way, stopping at Arches in Moab, Monument Valley, and Valley of the Gods. They are deciding if Moki Dugway is an appropriate drive for a Prius. That's only a four hour drive by car. It will take us six more days to get home. Jacinto is happy to quit fighting with this phone.

I didn't go inside to see the configuration of the post office/gas station in Mexican Hat.

Mexican Hat Rock is better seen from the south, it stands out against the sky. From the north, there is a red rock backdrop.

This was an 'oh, shit' sort of climb. I remember going down it last year and being so happy to be on the downhill. It was our only big climb today. I didn't have to stop. But it is very intimidating, looking across the valley at the steep uphill.

Today's ride: 25 miles (40 km)
Total: 806 miles (1,297 km)

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