Benson - South Bisbee, AZ - The cat named Chevy won't stop this tour, and neither can COVID

May 31, 2020

Benson - South Bisbee, AZ

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Tom and I agreed on a 5:30 AM depart to try and beat the heat. I followed what must be my touring nighttime norm of going to bed at 9 Pm and waking up at 3 AM. I haven't been successful getting back to sleep. Which makes it easy for the early departure. So, there's that.

I did a good job navigating today. I had previously discussed with Jacinto which direction to turn out of the parking lot. That first turn is important! Then we went a half mile and turned onto Highway 80. That was it for the day. Follow 80. I can handle those directions.

This morning was perfect for riding. 70 degrees and a blue bird sky. I remarked on that to Tom, his wry reply was that it would be changing soon. He was correct.

We had a gradual climb all the way to Tombstone. It was 25 miles and 1,000 feet of climbing. The terrain was green the entire distance, with a variety of blooming flowers. We did not pass through any bare desert.

St David was the only town between Benson and Tombstone. There were many small pecan stands along the road. There was also a monastery, which I found unique. They have a used book store and also an RV Park. I would have never made the connection between monastery and RV Park. Someone was thinking out of the box.

Tom and I made several short stops along the way. His longest training ride had been 20 miles. That's the typical testosterone approach. Just do it! Even for a man turning 83 soon. I trained for climbing and distance. Heat, I could not train for. Heat is always an issue for me. I think larger people's bodies have trouble regulating temperature. There's simply more body to cool off!

I told Tom I was going to stop at the first convenience store in Tombstone for a cold drink. There was a Dollar Store and a convenience store side by side. I decided the Dollar Store would be cheaper, so I went there. I picked out my electric red drink (what do you think is in these electrolyte drinks that they are such non food colors?) and went to the cashier to pay. I had a crisp new $2. bill. Of course that was unusual and the clerk had to comment on it. I gave my typical reply - that I had stayed up late the night before printing them. The clerk and I both laughed. The woman behind me said (in a pleasant tone) what was it that George Floyd had done that the police leaned on his neck and killed him? Passing counterfeit money . . . . as we rode away, that conversation played over several times in my head. I've used $2. bills for years, since we owned the movie theatre and gave them for change. Now they are a conversation starter and fun tipping money. Certainly there are many people who have never seen a $2. bill or might believe my story that I had printed them myself. Am I living the life of the white privileged, that I can go around flashing this unusual money without a care?

Those thoughts kept me busy for five more miles, to the top of the climb. Then we had a nice downhill. The down was marred by grass and plants growing in the many cracks on the paved shoulder. It was almost impossible to ride over the top of them. Tom and I both took to riding just to the left of the white line. There wasn't much traffic. When a car came by, we scooted back over. It's quite strange that ADOT hasn't taken care of the highway. I imagine the only reason the driving surface is clean of grass is because the automobiles wear them off.

I enjoyed every bit of the downhill and the following mostly level miles. It was a conundrum. I liked the easy riding, but I knew we had to climb to 6,000 feet from 4,500 feet. It would be less arduous to do that elevation gain gradually. No, not really gaining much here. Tom and I took quite a few breaks. I was feeling the heat. His butt was sore. Tom has great muscles from his exercise routine. Butt callouses come from saddle time! Says the woman who rides a cushy recumbent . . . .

I was watching the miles tick by. The top was mile 47. At mile 37 I told Tom I was going to use my tried and true method of stopping every mile. The first six miles went by fairly quickly. At one stop there was some excellent shade across the road. I sat down on a rock and drank my very cold ice water in the Hydro Flask. I did not want to get up. Ever.

I started eating Hammer Perpetuum tablets at every stop. The label says for endurance sports. I believe this qualifies. I ate an entire tube (6). I feel as if they helped me get to the top. What helped the most was frequent shade. It wasn't thick, but it was enough to hide in. Between the shade, the Perpetuum, and the cold water, I made it to the top. At the end, things got pretty bad. I had given up on the every mile and also given up on every half mile. I was talking myself up the mountain. "Stop at that tree, at the end of the guard rail, at . . . . " I was amazed to see a downhill road sign a full .6 miles before it should have been there. I looked at the ridewithgps map. Hmmm, it shows 200 feet more of climbing. I stood there in a stupor, hoping that what I saw was correct. I watched several vehicles drop over the horizon. Could it be? I was at the top? This was a day when .6 miles made a HUGE difference. I still had to take a break before starting the downhill. I was so hot and out of energy. It was all I could do to turn the pedals around. I had tried pushing the bike, but big bikes like mine, especially loaded with gear, aren't easy to push. Riding is more efficient.

In the end, I think ridewithgps didn't know about the tunnel. That was the difference in the altitude. There is an option to go around the tunnel. If you take Old Divide Road on the left, it adds some climbing and distance, but you go around the tunnel. Just before the tunnel, someone had spray painted NO BIKES on the shoulder. Now is a fine time to say that. There is no way I'm turning around and taking Old Divide Road. The tunnel had lights and wasn't too long. It was pleasantly cool inside. Too bad there wasn't a seating area on the side! I had two vehicles pass me while I was in the tunnel. Really? You couldn't wait? Worse, there was a car coming the other direction. I had both of my rear lights blinking, plus the emergency triangle that is reflective. There was enough room. But, still . . . what the heck.

I had lost Tom a couple of miles from the top. He must have taken extra breaks. I needed to keep moving before my legs gave out. Bisbee was just on the other side of the tunnel. To go into Bisbee proper, you need to get on Tombstone Canyon Road. Did I do that? No. I stayed on the highway. The better to finish, my dear. The problem with that was that Jacinto and I had made a deal last night. I would stop at a restaurant and get lunch to go. He would bicycle six miles round trip, past our airbnb, to Safeway and buy us a chicken dinner. I was not keeping my end of the bargain. Hell.

I kept going. The end was in sight and I had tunnel vision. I saw a sign for a restaurant. Should I try it? No, I knew most restaurants in Bisbee were closed on Sunday. I would go up that little hill for nothing. Down, down. I like down. It gets me to the finish faster. Wait. There's a Dairy Queen. Maybe I could buy Jacinto a hamburger there and keep my end of the bargain. It was drive up window only. I had to get in line behind two cars. No food at all, only ice cream. I ordered a berry smoothie. That sounded healthiest. A large. :) I also asked for a large ice water. I got brain freeze from too much cold. It was heavenly!

In the meanwhile I heard from both Tom and Jacinto. They were getting close. Tom arrived and bought a shake. He said, as he slurped with gusto, that he bet the shake had 2,000 calories. I wasn't going to argue. Jacinto pulled up. He had found a perfect size American flag along the way. I hadn't seen it. Tom and Jacinto had both run out of water before the tunnel. Jacinto was happy to finish my large ice water. He was looking for more, but there was still a line of cars waiting for ice cream.

In the meanwhile our airbnb host said the house was now ready and we could come over. It was a quick .8 miles to the house. Kat had given lengthy, explicit directions on how to find the house. It was next to the only yield sign on a triangle intersection. Her directions were excellent. We pulled right up. Our two bedroom house was $84. this compared to motel rooms at $130. and up. The downside is no TV or internet. Although I have one lonely bar on my phone, if I go outside and sit to the left, but not to the right.

I helped Jacinto unload his bike so he could go to the grocery. He had to go back up the hill to Highway 92. I thanked him a dozen times for going. Unfortunately, the chicken he bought isn't tasty at all. It's very dry. Tom didn't even finish one piece. We didn't have ketchup to go with the potato wedges, those hardly went down either. But we did have food and I didn't have to get it. Jacinto bought apples and bananas, and also a bag of ice! Now I have ice water to drink this evening.

Jacinto bought one large can of beer. He and Tom are going to sit on the porch and share it for their evening entertainment.

We've discussed the route tomorrow. Jacinto and I want to go to the border for a photo. Tom doesn't really need to go. He could save 18 miles and go straight to Elfrida. Speaking of Elfrida. It's a wide spot in the road. It's amazing there's a motel there. It has only seven rooms. I've called Dan any number of times with questions. I know there is one restaurant in town. It closes at 2 PM. I think. I got on google to check. Oh. Now google says temporarily closed. I call Dan to ask him what our options are. He said the Dollar Store would be open. Or they could fix us dinner. Well. How about that! What's for dinner. We will eat anything. He suggested Mexican food. We can do that. In the end we agreed on tamales, beans, and rice for $30. for all of us. At 5 PM.

Lunch, we will have to see what's at the Dollar Store. I asked for a noon check in. I'd still like to ride early tomorrow and beat the heat. It's only 700 feet of climbing. If the headwind we've been having stays true, it should be a nice tailwind tomorrow.

I felt the heat was the biggest issue today. Jacinto complained about the headwind. Tom noticed a lack of training. Plus, Tom lost his bicycle computer. It must not have been clicked in all the way and bounced out somewhere. Tom noticed it on the downhill after the tunnel. He did not go back for it . . .

It's 6 PM now. Tom's 4 o'clock beer is late. We are going to sit out on the porch and enjoy the evening. It doesn't seem too hot in the shade.