A Number of Things Happened Today

May 11, 2022

Lancaster, Wisconsin

I was packing my stuff onto my bike this morning when I got a phone call from The Feeshko.

"Did you know you're going to be getting temperatures in the 90's today," she alerted.
   "Yes, I do know that."
"You better make sure you have lots of water."
"I will."
"No, I mean more than those two little water bottles you usually carry."
"I've got it covered."
"And it says you might get storms too."
"I know. I'm prepared."
"If you do get storms, you get off the road . . . don't keep riding like you usually do."

Even after something like ten bike tours, my wife still feels like she has to give me safety advice. She is so cute that way.

**************************

Today is the day I leave the Mississippi River corridor and ride up into what is known as the "Driftless Area." I'm told the Driftless Area is a land of unique geological significance because it wasn't covered by glaciers in the last ice age . . . or something along those lines. That was, like, millions of years ago.

Look, I'm not a geologist--I'm a bike rider--so what the Driftless Area means to me is river valleys, high hills, and deep ravines. In other words, a lot of ups and downs.

I've ridden in some of the driftless areas located in southeast Minnesota and northeast Iowa, but Wisconsin's are said to be the best. I was ready to find out for myself.

But first I explored a little more of Dog Meadow (Prairie du Chein), which is Wisconsin's second oldest community. I wanted to immerse myself in a little more Wisconsin Culture.

This place sells boats, guns and booze. You can't get much more Wisconsinian than that combination.

I don't know what this very old building is because I didn't stop to find out. It must be pretty important, though, because a tank is guarding it.

The Culver's fast-food chain originated in Wisconsin. At some point on this trip, I hope to sample their signature dish--the "Butter Burger."

This photo captures two more examples of Wisconsin's heritage. I bought breakfast at La Crosse-based Kwik Trip, and it consisted of the Official Chocolate Milk of the Milwaukee Bucks basketball team.

About a half-hour later, I crossed the Wisconsin River, which had some pretty nice bluffs of its own. Its water will be dumped into the Mississippi River a couple miles downstream. The fly-like specks you'll see in the next photo are actually swallows flying around in a frenzy.

The swallows are not at all happy that I'm invading their territory. "Hey," I shouted, "you aren't the bosses of this bridge."

The nice scenery didn't stop there. And the relatively flat highway didn't stop there either. That surprised me. I expected to immediately climb steeply away from the Mississippi-Wisconsin River valleys. Instead, Highway 35 wound between the bluffs for several miles, and it was still very pleasing to the eye. The pleasing to the eye part I DID expect because it continues to be a dotted-line highway on my Rand-McNally map.

Inevitably, I did have to start climbing. I think it was about two miles of climbing, not too steep, and quite pretty. I even saw a couple tiny waterfalls tumbling down the slopes. Time for some pictures.

I'm still in the lowlands at this point, but the climb would be starting soon.

Half-way up the hill, I had to stop for a picture and a pee.

You can hardly see the little waterfall in this picture, but I'm posting it anyway.

At the top, the landscape opened up to wide open farmland and rolling hills.

One of many dairy farms that had the look of prosperity.

I frequently saw cows standing in these ditches. I believe they were trying to keep cool in the water.

Horses, cows and now sheep. I won the trifecta of farm animals.

All of it was very nice, but I had to wonder: WHERE ARE THE BIG HILLS OF THE DRIFTLESS AREA? There were a few hills near the little town of Bloomington, but then the highway leveled off again. Yet, while the main road snaked around below the hills, there were definite hints of things to come. One hint was the very steep driveways up to almost all of the farms. Another hint was the hilly side roads.

Soon, the hills became mine to deal with, and that would have been fine if not for the 90-degree heat and the 75% humidity. The next long climb was similar to the first one I described a little earlier, except that it wasn't so pleasant. It was much hotter, and it was entirely within a one-lane construction zone.

I rode the shoulder, past a long line of cars waiting for the flag man to turn his sign from STOP to SLOW. The dude had a big handlebar mustache and tattoos all over his arms.

"How far does the one-lane section go," I asked?
"All the way to the top of the hill," was his response.
"How far is that?"
"Oh, about two miles. Just be careful with the traffic."
"OK, I'm pretty sure I can deal with it."

He radioed to the flagman on the other side that a cyclist was coming, then he allowed me and the cars to proceed up the hill.

I took it slow because of the heat and the sweat pouring out me like crazy. I stopped about half-way up to take a picture. That's when a road worker drove up and asked if I was okay. I assured him I was fine and I've done this plenty of times.

A little later, I stopped for a long drink of water and a different worker drove up and said, "I'm going to have to ask you to move over to the other side of the road so we can let the cars at the top of the hill move on."

"You mean they've been waiting for me all this time?" I asked.
"Yeah," he replied.

I was so ashamed. Had I known, I would not have been lolligagging. I would have pedaled my ass off the entire way, even if it meant passing out from heat exhaustion. I hate being an inconvenience to anyone. I wished I could have apologized to every one of those drivers who waited all that time just because of me. No wonder a lot of motorists hate us bike riders.

Here's my picture of the road construction project.

That hill and the heat & humidity took a lot out of me. There were quite a few more hills over the next five miles and I cursed almost every one of them. I was getting sunburned. I didn't take any more pictures, though the landscapes were very picture worthy.

I blame The Feeshko for the negativity in the last paragraph. In her call this morning she should have warned me to get an earlier start to avoid the heat. In addition, she should have told me to buy some sunscreen. I'll be more prepared tomorrow.

*********************

I decided to call it a day 15 miles short of my planned destination of Platteville. I can't remember the last time I was so happy to cut a bike ride short in favor of a comfortable motel room. (Oh, wait, it was just two days ago.)

I was granted an early check-in at a motel in the town of Lancaster. I picked up some Wisconsin beer and some Wisconsin cheese, took a shower, and happily started blogging.

Spotted Cow is an iconic Wisconsin beer. Its main claim to fame is that it is only sold in the state of Wisconsin. People from surrounding states know they have to come here to buy it. In my opinion, it's not the best Wisconsin beer, but it sure was refreshing on this 92-degree day. Recently, a bike tourist named "Old Grumbleface" provided some words of wisdom: "When facing adversity in Wisconsin, eat more cheese." The sharp cheddar from the Shullsburg Creamery was just the thing I needed.

By the way, I saw a REAL spotted cow today.

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I was feeling spunkier today, so I created a map of the first three days of my tour.

Today's ride: 37 miles (60 km)
Total: 101 miles (163 km)

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Bill StoneGood job on the cheese, cheesy rider! Now, if you really, really, really need a BIG boost in Wisconsin, get yourself a loaf of delicious cheese bread.

As to the driftless area, I watched a fascinating PBS show about that part of Wisconsin a few months ago. I expect your two-wheeled investigation to be no less fascinating, plus you can feature more cheese.
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2 years ago

Rich HarrellGonna sample Wisconsin Cheese Curds?
They don't sound very enticing to me.
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2 years ago

Gregory GarceauTo Rich HarrellRich, they're actually not as bad as the name suggests.
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2 years ago

Keith KleinHi,
Beer, cheese, and crackers, one of my favorite snacks when I was a post doc in Madison. Have you tried cheese curds on French fries?

Cheers,

Keith
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2 years ago

Gregory GarceauTo Bill StoneBill, I think I'll pass on the cheese bread. But I will try to find that PBS documentary on-line.
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2 years ago

Gregory GarceauTo Keith KleinNo, I've never tried that "delicacy," but it sure sounds Wisconsonian. I assume the curds are melted on top of the fries.
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2 years ago

Rachael AndersonIt must have been really bad for you to complain! I’m dreading when it gets too hot here! Take care!
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2 years ago

Gregory GarceauTo Rachael AndersonI usually do pretty well in heat and humidity. In this case, the temperatures went from the 40's to the 90's in a matter of days. It was kind of a shock to the system.
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2 years ago

Kelly IniguezWe were supposed to start our ride last year in Prairie Du Chien, leaving our van at a friend's house. Jacinto couldn't get off work in time, so we had to start in Milwaukee. Your photos today are very inviting. If we ever make it over there again, we'll need to ride this day.
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2 years ago