Sleepless in St. Philibert: St. Philibert de Grand Lieu to Pornic

August 2, 2017

The stuff you don't know about can ruin your day, or night as the case may be. What I didn't know about the campground was that there was a group of kids camping out together for their summer vacation. Now usually kids in camp are well behaved and tired enough at sunset to go immediately to sleep and so they usually don't bother me at all. What I hadn't counted on was that this particular group was actually split into two, the little ones and the older adolescents (ados as they are called in France). The older ones were fine until the camp councilors went to sleep, then in the manner of "ados" everywhere, they started to make noise. First it was just loud talking and laughing, but when it escalated to kicking a football against the picnic shelter wall, I had enough. So at two in the morning I got dressed, got out of the tent and went over to them and told them to show a little respect and get themselves to bed. Which they did, hangdog looks and all. In about half an hour calm was restored, but I still awoke a seven, so I knew that the day ahead was going to be tough.

The campground snack bar wasn't open, so I walked into the village and got two large coffees at the bar and then went back and got things packed away. I was trying to get to Pornic on the coast. It was only about 45 kilometers away, but I kept getting lost on the small roads that wind through the area.

A nice, calm, easy riding road. But where am I?

At noon, I found myself in Arthon-en-Retz, about 10 km from Pornic. Frustrated but hungry, I found a little restaurant and went in for the daily special. I don't remember what it was, now, but it wasn't particularly good. Leaving the restaurant I got lost again almost immediately, but I eventually found the village of Chauve (Bald!) and got on the right route to Pornic. Getting into Pornic by bike is not easy as there is a new limited access highway to cross, but I found the signs for eurovelo 1 and was saved. Entering Pornic I spotted the Hotel Alizée and I stopped for the day. I got a room, showered and lay down on the bed. Next thing I knew, it was five thirty in the afternoon, but I was definitely feeling better.

Pornic is a traditional fishing port, and really quite charming. The tide was going out in the harbor, and most of the boats were tied up.

This boat, a ketch rigged yacht, takes passengers out for cruises. There are a lot of tourists in Pornic in the summer, but it has not been "discovered" by the hordes yet, so you can still move around town easily.

Ina real fishing village there will always be at least one bar for the "locals" and passing yachties. It is always located at least one street off the tourist drag, and will serve decent beer at a decent price. Pornic is no exception, and I found this place right where I supposed it to be. And look! They serve a locally made real ale, English style. Drawn from the keg by a real pump, I had two.

Well fortified by the beer, I went in search of dinner. I settled on a restaurant that specialized in choucroute de la mer of which I was really growing quite fond. This one was truly delicious with shrimp, prawns, haddock, hake, and mussels on a bed of sauerkraut in light cream sauce. It went nicely with a local sauvignon blanc. After supper, I retired early falling asleep before dark.

Today's ride: 59 km (37 miles)
Total: 603 km (374 miles)

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