Arrival in Cherbourg: for the second time

July 24, 2017

I'm starting this tour in Cherbourg, the place where I first entered France.

As always, I'm using the French railway system to get to the starting point of my tour. I know that the hard core tourers like to do every centimeter, but I'm more interested in seeing new sights than in cycle touring purity. Besides, I don't like to be away from home for too long. A little absence is good, a lot is not. So this morning I got on the train in Dijon for the ride into Paris.

The touring bike just fits on the hangars in the train.

Bikes are not permitted on all trains, and the only trains that take them for free are the slow regional trains. So It takes three hours to get to Paris. I ride from the Gare de Bercy across town to the Gare Saint Lazare and get on a train for Cherbourg. I grab a sandwich just before boarding the second train to eat on the way. I get to Cherbourg on time (about five PM). For once, the SNCF has not let me down. I had booked into the Hotel Croix de Malte which is right downtown.

As always, the first thing I do is head for the harbor. I love sailboats, and sailing but I don't live on a lake anymore and cannot justify the expense of owning a boat even to myself. So I guess I'll just take some pictures to drool over while I can.

I particularly love old wooden boats. These are typical Norman fishing boats, now kept by enthusiasts for pleasure.

There is a very strong sense of Norman identity and the Norman flag is everywhere. Other regions of France also display their identity with pride.

The city has a rather grand theater in its center. Memories of when Cherbourg was an important port on the Atlantic where the great liners to and from America called.

After walking around Cherbourg, I began the search for a decent restaurant to celebrate the beginning of the tour. I settled on a small place overlooking the harbor and ordered choucroute de la mer sauerkraut with sea food. I didn't know it then, but this dish was to figure large during the tour. The clientele in the restaurant was largely British holiday makers either just on or just off the ferry. I over heard one lady explaining to her companion the fois gras was ALWAYS goose liver, even though the menu clearly said "de canard" or duck. The niceties of French cuisine can be difficult for some, I guess.

Today's ride: 28 km (17 miles)
Total: 28 km (17 miles)

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