August 5, 2022
Siegsdorf to Berchtesgaden (Aug 5, 2022)
Today’s Route:
Today we left Siegsdorf at 8:45 am, which shows continued improvement on our departure time (although we hoped to leave at 8:30 am.) It was already hot.
The plan was to reach Berchtesgaden by 2 pm before predicted thunderstorms, but on a non-as-the-crow-flies route, which included portions of the Austrian slow-bike-tour trail. Selection of this route came about due to events in April when we were skiing in Europe and Dave tested positive for Covid two days before our return. He wasn’t really sick (minorish cold symptoms for a few days) but it necessitated an additional 8 day quarantine and rebooking our flight back to the US (honestly, the two hours I had to spend on the phone with United was the worst part of the whole situation). It turned out pretty well: we found a nice house on a lake outside Salzburg so Dave could cook so long as I agreed to shop (something I never do back home!) The house had a nice kitchen with a induction range (now Dave wants one for back home).
I digress and there really was a point to this discussion: during his quarantine I had lots of time to walk around and discovered a portion of the Slow Bike Tour which is a 177 k loop around Salzburg. The part I was able to walk looked lovely so I included some of it in this day’s itinerary. We rode from Siegsdorf to Hogl, Anger, Ainring, Bad Reichenhall and finally Berchtesgaden. It was great, lots of elevation changes and varied terrain, including two stiff descents (15 percent or so) on single track, which I did but which was at the peak of my current capabilities. (Had it been a rainy day I probably would not have been able to do that portion - something we need to ponder for future routes). We also reflected that it would have been difficult - or impossible — on our tandem. The climbs were short but too steep for the tandem — or for us - depending on how you want to look at it! The route today was well-used, with some cute towns that looked fun to stay in had the timing been right. It was a day that felt more than just a transitional day - really beautiful scenery.
We are getting more into the routine of things: earlier starts, more frequent stops to rehydrate (and eat ice cream) and earlier arrival at our day’s destination. Berchtesgaden is at the foot of the Alps, a busy tourist town. Our hotel is okay; we had a rough start when we learned that our room did NOT have internet due to its location in the hotel. Dave being a technical guy, has a particular pet-peeve about that (especially at 200 euros a night). He spent about 10 minutes being super-cranky about it, and then I spent 10 minutes being super cranky at him because he was super cranky — and then we both got over it and had a nice evening! Dinner was pizza at the restaurant, the only thing on offer. Europe also has the labor shortage so our hotel restaurant has weird and unpredictable limitations on food and service. First world problems.
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Tomorrow is a rest day and we are ready for it as 3 consecutive 60 k days is plenty for us at this stage of our trip.
Today's ride: 60 km (37 miles)
Total: 183 km (114 miles)
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